I created 2 wall pieces in the class. I really enjoyed making these. I am definitely going to be making more of these in the future.

Here is the 1st wall piece I created in Nick’s class. The wood is really nice curly maple. 12″ square by 2″ thick.

The idea here was to turn and decorate square pieces and then cut them up. Nick suggested cutting them up in 1″ wide strips or into quarters. Then we could rearrange or skew the pieces.

After I turned the square piece, I decided to decorate it with airbrush stuff I learned from Nick. I love the way it came out!

I decided it was too nice to cut into strips. Thus, I cut it into quarters. The original piece is on the left in above photo. One of 16 possible arrangements is on the right.

I colored the piece with Chroma Craft Wood Dyes applied with an airbrush. I used some airbrush stencils from Nick, Amazon and Binh Pho.

Note: 4 pieces * 4 sides = 16 possible arrangements.

Here are two alternate arrangements of the 1st wall piece.

The piece is not done yet. I plan on mounting this piece on a black steel background that is roughly 3″ larger than the piece. I will install magnets on the back of each piece. This will allow people to rearrange the pieces to create their own image.

It looks better with a 1/4″ of space between the pieces. I just stacked them up for the photos. So, no space was possible. I am going to add spacers to the finial piece.

Note: Using magnets to mount sculptures on plinths (suspended in space) was one of the ideas Nick discussed in class. I decided to expand that idea to mount my wall pieces.

Here is the 2nd wall piece I created in Nick’s class. The wood is Maple. 10-1/2″ square by 1-1/4″ thick.

Nick suggested that we could remount and turn each quarter individually after cutting the main piece into 4 parts. I wanted to try out that idea. I also wanted to try a piece with out a lot of fancy airbrushing. Just let the beauty of the wood shine thru.

I was finishing this piece on the last day of class and got in to much of a hurry. I accidentally powered sanded the orange center on one of the 4 pieces. Then I had to try to cover it up by sanding all 4 of them. It didn’t really work out.

I colored the piece with Chroma Craft Wood Dyes applied with an airbrush. The Chroma Craft dyes are fast drying and DO NOT penetrate into the wood. Thus, I got way with, just sanding any dye over spray off the top surface to expose nice clean wood. I masked the junctions in circles with masking tape. That was a pain.

Here are two alternate arrangements of the 2nd wall piece

We started the class by creating sculptures from cut up turned forms. We turned a 9″ round bottomed cereal bowl shape on the outside with a small 2″ shallow bowl on the inside. Then we cut the bowl into slices and experimented with carving, wood burning, coloring and finishing techniques.

The photos show my 2 creations. The above photo on the left is the front view. The photo on right is the back view. I am really happy with the way the pieces turned out.

I cut my bowl into 3 slices. I never got around to using the center slice that contains the small 2″ bowl on the inside. It is NOT shown in the photos.

The green piece in photos is ash wood with power carved and burned textures. It was painted with copper and bronze reactive metallic paint. Some areas were painted with copper, others with bronze. Then it was aged with green patina aging solution.

The red, orange, and yellow piece is ash wood with power carved and burned textures. It was painted with red, orange and yellow Chroma Craft Wood Dyes. Then the back and some areas on the front were highlighted with Chroma Craft Viking Silver Chroma-Gilt.

Nick wanted us to mount our sculptures on a plinth with magnets. The magnets allow the pieces to be moved around and re positioned to create new configurations. I really liked the idea. But, the wimpy magnets I brought with me were not up to the task. My slices of ash were to heavy to be held up at the angle I wanted. I had to use dowels rather than magnets.

I made some 9″ hard maple plates. They were canvases on which I could try some of the techniques demonstrated by Nick in the class.

The plate on the left in the photo is Chroma Craft Wood Dyes applied with an airbrush. I used some airbrush stencils from Amazon and Binh Pho.

The plate on the right is Chroma Craft Black Web-Fx special effect paint, over Golden brand Iridescent Bright Gold acrylic paint, over Chroma Craft Blood Red Wood Dye.

You can see in the photo that some paint escaped under the masking tape that I used to mask things off. In the future I need to do a better job of masking.

I also made a viking style plate. I wanted to try Nick’s idea of mixing different colors of Chroma Craft Chroma-Gilt on the same piece. Some areas are say copper while others are bronze.

I turned a 9″ hard maple plate and decorated it (cut groves in it) with my small and large Sorby Spiraling and Texturing tools.

In the above photos the front of the plate is on the left. The back is on the right. The back is darker than the front in real life. By design.

I kind of forget what I did here. I am not sure about the colors. Here is my best guess. The front is Saxon Gold and Antique Brass Chroma Craft Chroma-Gilt, over Green Verdigris Chroma Craft Chroma-Gilt, rubbed into the groves with a tooth brush, over Chroma Craft Black Wood Dye.

The back is Celtic Copper and Nordic Bronze Chroma Craft Chroma-Gilt, over Chroma Craft Black Wood Dye.

On the last day of class I made a platter (wide rim bowl). I liked a platter with a white and blue rim done by another student. I wanted to try something similar.

I took the piece home to finish at home when I did not have time to finish it in class. I got inspired and made another piece with a red background at home.

The platter in left photo is Blue and Black Chroma Craft Web-Fx special effect paint, over Rustolem flat white spray paint. With Golden brand blue and black acrylic paint, airbrushed on shading. The ugly brown marks in the bowl, showed up when I turned the bowl. They are in the wood. I was not happy.

The platter in right photo is Black Chroma Craft Web-Fx special effect paint, over Blood Red Chroma Craft Wood Dye . With Golden brand black acrylic paint, airbrushed on shading.

The black rim on both platters is black acrylic paint, applied with an airbrush.

Both platters are 9″ diameter, hard maple wood. The bottom of both platters is a roman ogee shape, natural wood color.

P.S. My Pennsylvania Dutch Cake Stand was just selected as the “AAW Turning of the Week” on 3/6/2019.

There are no fixed projects in the above class. Students are free to do there own thing. Pick there own projects. Thus students can make a cake stand in the above class if they want. With or without the decoration. Or we can do similar decoration on a plate, bowl, etc.

Click on the photo below for more photos of my recent work.

Carl’s Photo Studio 2018

Here is my new photo setup. I started using it in 2018. I am very happy with it.

I am now using "softbox lights" with a big graduated black to white background. See photo above.

Previously I used a "Photo Tent". (See photo at the end of this blog post.) Like recommended in AAW Symposiums, etc. It worked ok for years. But then I decided I was tired of it. I did not like the lights all that much. The tent was to small. I wanted to take photos of bigger things and groups of things. Moving things around and positioning them inside of the tent was a pain.

I looked around and decided that "softbox lights" were the way to go.

Softbox Lights

I found some softbox lights on Amazon that I liked the looks of in my price range.

They are "LimoStudio 700W Photo Video Studio Soft Box Lighting Kit, 24 x 24 Inch Dimension Softbox Light Reflector with Photo Bulb, Photography Studio, AGG814". $64 on 2/2019.

I like them.

Big Light Bulbs

The bulbs are big. Really big. 4" diameter by 9" tall.

I think big is good. They create lots of light that is soft from the start because it does not all come from a small point source.

The bulbs are marked "eTopLighting photo bulb PB-85 120V 85W". No other markings. But, I think they are 6500K, daylight neutral.

Big Black to White Background

I decided to get a big background so I could take photos of big things. I like the background in photos to trail off from grey to black. Thus I use a graduated black to white background.

Real photographers use a huge studio and let the light trail off naturally. I don't have room for that.

My background is from Amazon. It is a "Flotone Vinyl Graduated Background 43" X 67" Black to White #609". $74 on 2/2019.

There are lots of similar choices on Amazon. The price was more than I would like. But, it was the best I could do.

I wanted a vinyl background so I cold wash it off when it got dirty. However, that does not work well, because all these backgrounds scratch really easily!

Note: I use the smudge tool in Photoshop to wipe out any scratches I see on the background in my photos.

If you want to go cheaper you could just use some photo gray paper. Something that is a “Dove Gray” color. Something like “Savage Seamless Background Paper – #84 Dove Gray (53 in x 36 ft)”. $45 on 2/2019. Pick something that is the right width for your application.

Photo Studio Stowed

Here is my new photo studio all stowed. I just roll the background up to the ceiling. Then shove the lights, back out of the way. The table is part of my photo set up. I just, leave it up and use it for other things. Stowing things takes just a minute or two.

I made my own background roller. More about that latter. Before, I made the roller, I used some big binder paper clips that hung the background from the ceiling from some wires. I never put the background away and thus ended up with scratches on it.

Note: I had to use the flash on my camera to get a photo of the screen up against the ceiling. Err… I hate on camera flash! The light is just way to harsh.

Photo Studio Ready To Go

Here is my photo studio set up and ready to go.

The tall light is lighting the background and the over all scene. The low light is my accent light. For this big group with lots of shiny things, I have the accent light higher than normal. Later, I had to dork around with the accent light, quite a bit to get rid of hot spots on that glossy red plate.

I am using an old GOOD tripod, I got from a friend. A good tripod is a must! A cheap tripod that moves around will drive you crazy.

The big black binder paper clips on the bottom of the background just add some weight so it hangs down, out of the way. The paint cans, keep the background from slipping off the table.

I adjust the height of the background and paint cans to get a nice almost black background at the top of my photos.

I always take my photos in a dark room at night or on a cloudy day. The photo lights are the only source of light. I don't want any other sources of light that may reflect off my work, cast weird shadows or color shifts.

Note: My good camera is on the tripod. I am taking this photo with my old camera. Thus the quality of the photos in this blog entry, vary a lot.

My Camera

Here I have my camera set up ready to take a shot. I am going to live with the hot spots in centers of bowls. They are virtually impossible to get rid of in a group shot like this. The top of the red plate is still a little to bright. I need to adjust my lights a little more.

In the viewfinder you can see the edge of my background on the left. For this big group, I have to frame the photo based on top and bottom of all items in the photo. I will cut left and right off latter in Photoshop. I also leave some room on the top and bottom of shot for cropping in Photoshop.

My camera is an "Olympus TG-3". I really good camera. I really like this camera. But, it is totally the wrong camera for this application. But, it works just fine. This camera is designed to be really tough for travel. It can be bounced off a concrete floor, dropped in a lake or you can take photos in pouring rain. I have done most of these things. It has a piece of glass in front of the internal folded lens to make it really waterproof and thus totally the wrong camera for this application.

You can put this camera in manual mode. And lots of other stuff. But, I never do, because it takes FANTASTIC photos in AUTO mode. Here I have forced the flash off, set it to 8m (3216 x 2144) photo size (not the max), 3:2 photo with a 1 second self timer, in auto mode.

The most important thing here is to FORCE THE FLASH OFF! No flash for any reason come hell or high water with digital cameras.

A 1 second self timer is also real important. i.e. take the photo 1 second after I push the shutter button. Wait until, I let go and the camera stops shaking then take the photo.

These days, any good point and shoot camera will get the job done.

Note: If I had a ton of money to waste then I would get a fancy OFF CAMERA flash unit that I could ADJUST the brightness of. Then I would not need to dork with my lights, etc. I could just use the flash. On camera flashes like I have and can afford, do not work! Only one brightness (usually super bright) flashes like I have and can afford do not work!

The Original Photo

Well, sort of the original photo. The original is 3316 x 2144, 1.46 MB. The photo here has been down sampled to a reasonable size for the web.

Here is the photo I decided to go with. It is one of 10 or so, taken from slight different angles and heights. I picked the best one.

If you are taking photos on Auto. Just moving the camera a little often makes a BIG difference in how the light is captured by the camera. Big differences in ISO, F stop, shutter speed, white balance, etc.

I have found the best solution for ME is to take 10 or more photos on AUTO and then pick the best one. Because, I don't really known what I am doing. Taking photos on manual is a waste of time for ME. What F stop, etc should I use? I have no clue. Once in a long while, I will take a photo on Auto and then switch to Manual, where I tweak the settings that Auto mode came up with.

I often rotate the pieces around a little or lot. The grain on some pieces only looks great from one angle. Often not the angle I start out with.

There are lots of scratches and some dust/dirt on the background in this photo. Can you find them? I did not touch them up. I can't find them even in the 1.46 meg original with out a lot of zooming.

The Cropped Photo

Here I cropped the photo a little in Photoshop. Remove the edge of the background on right. Leave a nice amount of space all around.

Auto Levels in Photoshop often does wonders. Makes the background look better. Removes the dull gray cast. Auto levels did not do much to this photo. I got the lights, etc right from the start. My TG-3 camera is not the right camera for the job, but it does a pretty good job.

In Photoshop I did an Export, Save for Web. Saved the photo at 1600 px wide (1600 x 1160), 648K. Then I let Jalbum program down sample it to 828 x 600, 93K for my blog on the web. I normally shoot for original images saved on my computer for the long term around 600K to 800K. If just one object in the photo than I save at 800 px wide. If you save photos anywhere on the web (Flickr, Google Photos, etc) they frequently get saved way below this size.

Photoshop use to be head and shoulders above any thing else. That is no longer true. The programs that now come with most digital cameras are pretty good. They all support cropping. And most support some form of "auto levels". You don't need Photoshop. Photoshop is a tool. A tool with a HUGE learning curve. The programs that now come with digital cameras are often a lot easier to use.

Note: This is one of the promotional photos for my Woodturning Workshop class at Peters Valley on July 12-16, 2019. PV is calling it "An Exploration of Woodturning". See http://petersvalleyworkshops.bigcartel.com/product/an-exploration-of-woodturning

Pick the BEST Photo

Like I said eariler. I ALWAYS take 10 or more photos from slightly different angles, heights and rotations of the subject. Then I pick the best one.

Photo of a Big Thing

Here I am taking a photo of a lamp that will definitely not fit in my old photo tent. I have raised the background up to make this work.

Background Rolled Up for Storage

Here is what my background looks like when rolled up for storage. The big black metal binder clips add a little weight to the end of the background. They make things a lot easier.

Notice that my roller is roughly 6" wider than my background. I did this on purpose. I didn't want the edges of my background getting all screwed up.

I made the roller out of 4" Sewer and Drain PVC pipe from local big box store. I wanted a big diameter roller. I did not want the background to get screwed up by being rolled to tight. I also, did not want it to develop a memory and try to roll back up on it's own.

Note: Before, I made the roller, I used some big binder paper clips that hung the background from the ceiling from some wires. I never put the background away and thus ended up with scratches on it.

Background Rolled Down

Here you can see that I put 3 feet of heavy construction paper above my background. This allows me to roll down the background further.

I REALLY like this roller because it has a clutch mechanism built into it. It will not roll down on it's own while I taking photos, etc. You have to pull on the white chain on the right to roll it up or down. See next photo.

Clutch Mechanism for Background Roller

I purchased some roller brackets with a built in clutch mechanism. I purchased "Good News Roller Blind Shade Metal Core Clutch Bracket Cord Chain Repair kit 38mm" from Amazon. $9 on 2/2019.

I turned some pine wooden disks to reduce the 4" PVC pipe down to the 38mm required by the rollers.

Close Up of Roller Bracket

Here you can see that I cut the long slots off of the roller brackets in previous photo. Then I drilled my own new mounting holes.

Old Photo Tent

Here is picture of my old photo tent with lights. The one, I no longer like.

Carl’s AAW Photo Gallery

Recently, I decided to start posting one photo per week of my recent work on the AAW’s Photo Gallery.

Go here to see some recent photos taken with my new photo studio set up: http://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?media/albums/carl-ford.842/

Ric Rac Orchid Cactus Plate Bowl

Last month, I found these old photos that I never got around to writing up. They are still relevant. Thus, here is my Ric Rac Cactus Plate Bowl.

I created this plate bowl back in 2013. Not long after taking a class with Al Stirt at The Center for Furniture Craftsmenship in Maine.

I used Al's pattern layout, and sgraffito process.

My inspiration for the pattern was my Ric Rac Orchid Cactus. See photo above.

Note: I call a plate with a small blow in the center a "Plate Bowl". Sgraffito definition "decoration by cutting away parts of a surface layer (as of plaster or clay) to expose a different colored ground".

Here is how I created the decoration on my plate bowl:

Inspiration

My inspiration for the pattern was my Ric Rac Orchid Cactus.

Boy this cactus was small back in 2013. It is now a big boy. I have propagated it into numerous plants. See photo at end.

Trace the Pattern

Here I have traced the leaf (stalk?) pattern onto the plate bowl with a yellow water color pencil.

I am using a WATER COLOR pencil because I can easily remove it with a wet paper towel. Water color pencils are easy to find in art supply stores.

I turned the plate bowl out of maple wood. Then, I prepped it with (one or two coats, I don't remember) of black acrylic gesso paint. I thined the gesso a little with some water. The gesso dries flat. I like to use a good quality gesso. I use either Golden or Liquitex brand.

Latter, I will top coat the finished piece with a semi gloss or gloss finish. For now, I just want a nice flat surface I can draw on.

After the gesso dried, I sprayed it with flat lacquer to toughen up the gesso and make it water proof. In 2013, I probably used Deft brand flat lacquer. Sprayed on from a rattle can. Today (in 2019) I would use 2 to 3 VERY LIGHT coats of Krylon brand "Matte Finish 1311". Matte is the name of the finish. It dries fast and makes a great surface to work on top of.

Transfer the Pattern to a Template

After I create a pattern that I like, I need to replicate it over and over on the plate. I do this by creating a template.

I get some thin, yet rigid, see thru plastic sheet from local craft or fabric store. Quilters use this stuff. Low cost. You can get it with or with out a grid on the plastic. It looks like I had the grid stuff back in 2013. I now prefer it, with out the grid.

I trace the pattern I like onto the plastic with a run of the mill #2 pencil. Click on the photo for a better view.

Cut Out The Template

I cut out the template with an X-acto knife.

Note: Should I call it a Template or Stencil? I am going with template.

Test The Template

Here I am testing out the template. It looks good.

Notice that I discarded the part in the middle. The part that most people would keep. I want the outline of the shape. Not the shape. Why, will become obvious in the next couple of photos.

Template Positioning Gizmo

Now I need a way to rotate the template around the center of the bowl and position it at the same angle.

The photo shows the gizmo, I came up with. I cut a piece of plywood that fits in the center bowl. Then I attached the plywood to a chunk of scrap metal.

Then I taped the template to the metal with some masking tape. Now, I have a template that can be rotated to any position on the bowl.

This gizmo works on any outside shape plate (square, oval or round) with a round bowl in the center (or off center).

How Many? How Far Apart?

Now I play around. I move the pattern around and decide what visually looks best. How close together, do I want the leaves? How many leaves fit nicely all the way around the plate?

I can use my yellow WATER COLOR pencil to temporarily draw things on and see how they look. Because I can easily erase the water color with a damp paper towel.

I decided, I wanted 7 leaves. 7 is an odd number. Things often occur in nature in odd numbers. 3, 5, 7, etc. Odd numbers often look best.

7 leaves allows the widest part of the leaves to almost touch. About 3/16" apart. The pattern will visually fill up most of the plate. But, not to much! See photos below.

Make Reference Marks

Now it is time to make some reference marks that will allow me to evenly space the pattern.

360 degrees / 7 leaves = 51.43 degrees. Thus, I need a reference line every 51 degrees and then fudge the last one a little if needed to make it look good.

I used my protractor to mark the first 51 degree spot. Then, I just attached the protractor to my gizmo and rotated it, to make a mark every 51 degrees.

I made all the marks with a WATER COLOR pencil so I can easily erase them latter with a damp paper towel.

7 Reference Marks

This photo shows the 7 reference marks.

Why didn't I use the index in the lathe? Well, I find indexes built into lathes, are generally, completely and totally useless in my not so humble opinion! They are way to hard to use. They are often buried inside and/or hard to see. They have way to many holes. I only need like 12! Counting every fifth hole or what ever is for the birds! It never comes out right! Are they zero or one origin? Err……

In this case, there is no doubt, any lathe index is completely and totally useless! I want 7, an odd number. Lathe indexes are always even numbers!

Replicate the Pattern

Here I have taped the template to my gizmo. I am rotating the gizmo. Lining it up on my reference marks. Drawing on the pattern with a WATER COLOR pencil.

Read To Go

This photo shows the pattern all drawn on and ready to go.

Circle T-Square

This photos shows my circle T-Square. I got this from Al Stirt. The t-square has been adapted to ride on the outside edge of a circle.

In this case, my outside bowl is circular (rather than square or oval) and my inside bowl is in the center, thus I could have used this rather than my gizmo.

I could have just taped my template to the t-square and then rotated the t-square.

Outline the Pattern

Here I have started carving in the pattern with a 1/8" ball cutter (burr) in a rotatory tool.

Note: You can only sort of see the shaft of the tool in the photo. The cutter is not visible.

It looks like, I was using my Foredom Flex Tool back in 2013. Today, I would just use a Dremel style tool. It's the pattern and operator that matters. Not the tool!

Fill In the Pattern

Here I have RANDOMLY filled in most of the pattern.

Carving All Done

Here the carving is all done. I used a 3M Radial Bristle disk to clean up any carving fuzz.

Ready for a finish. Hum? Well, I don't really known. It may already have a semi gloss lacquer finish on it.

The Finished Piece with Inspiration

Can you see the resemblance?

Finished Piece

Here is the finished piece.

My Ric Rac Cactus Plate Blow. 8-1/4" diameter, 1-1/4" tall. Cherry wood. Power carved pattern. Semi gloss lacquer finish.

My Ric Rac Orchid Cactus in 2018

Here is a picture of my Ric Rac Orchid Cactus. Out on my deck in 2018. It's a big boy now. Click on the photo for a better view.

The Ric Rac Cactus is on the right. Pointed to by magenta arrow. There is another Orchid Cactus on the left in full bloom. I love the red one. I don't known the name. It was a cutting from a mother plant with fantastic flowers.

I love Orchid Cactus because they have fantastic flowers. They are really tough. Easy to grow. But, they can be a bit ugly when not in bloom.

I love the shape of the Ric Rac Cactus leaves (stalks?) and the flowers look great. The flowers are white and orange. However, the Ric Rac flowers do not smell good. They have sort of an industrial smell. Not really foul, but not sweet and pleasant.

The red one in photo smells good. But the smell is faint.

Wood for Blanks

I looked around out back and found a nice Douglas Fir (DF) 2×4 scrap that I could use for bowls. The top piece in photo.

I also found some Spruce 2×4 scraps that I could use for glue blocks. Bottom pieces in photo.

Tip: Douglas Fir is one of the harder soft woods that you can purchase from local store. It is harder than Spruce or Pine. Thus it is easier to cut cleanly with a bowl gouge. Thus less sanding. Thus a good choice! It often has nice strong grain lines that make attractive pieces.

Note: Here I can use a softwood glue block, because my blank is softwood. Normally, I recommend using hardwood (Poplar, Maple, Cherry, etc) for glue blocks.

Cut Your Blanks

Here I have cut out my blanks. My DF 2×4 was 3.5" wide by 1.5" tall. I cut my DF blanks 3.75" long to making centering easier (less fussy).

I cut my Spruce 2x4s into 3" x 3" blocks that are 1-1/2" tall. You really want the blocks to be 1-1/2" tall, to make your life easier. See latter photos. Only 3" to make gluing easier.

Use Yellow Wood Glue!

Use any Yellow or White Wood Glue. In photo, I have spread a LIBERAL coat of glue with a plastic scrap.

When I put the blocks together I use an old trick. I rub the blocks around until the glue sets up a little. Then position them. I don't need to fuss with clamps.

I wait overnight for the glue to fully cure.

NO SUPER GLUE Super glue does not work well for glue blocks. If you just spread it on and then spray with accelerator around the outside it does not work! The accelerator only goes in like a 1/2" inch. After that the glue stays wet. Sooner or latter the block breaks off. Some times you can get away with using super glue if you spread it on one half, then spray accelerator on the other half. Then stick the half's together while praying they line up correctly. Because, the glue is going to set up instantly.

Cut a Tenon

Here I have cut a tenon on the bottom of my glue block. The tenon is roughly 1/4" deep with a 1/4" wide flange for the front of my chuck jaws to land on.

I turned the glue block down to 3".

I just jammed the bowl blank up against the chuck. It is being held there by pressure from the tailstock. The block is not attached to the chuck.

Use a bowl gouge and/or parting tool to cut the tenon like they say in the magazine article.

Cut the Inside (Yea, Inside First)

Here I have mounted the piece in the chuck via the tenon I cut in previous step. Then I made the blank round with my 1/2" bowl gouge. Like they show in magazine article.

Then I have started to cut the inside shape with my 1/2" bowl goug

I turn the inside of my bowls first! Latter, I turn the outside to match the inside. This is EASIER! Less mental stress!

Turning on the inside of a bowl is always a LOT HARDER than turning on the outside. On the inside you have to swing the tool handle a lot more thru a long arc while reaching out over the lathe bed. Doing this when the bowl walls are getting thin, because you already turned the outside is a receipt for disaster! The walls flex, etc. It's just all wrong. You should turn the inside first. Get the hard part over, early, while the bowl walls are still thick and therefore forgiving.

1/2″ Bowl Gouge with a Double Bevel

This is a small bowl. But, I still use my standard full size set of tools. A 1/2" bowl gouge, a 1/2" detail gouge and a 1/8" parting tool.

Going to a smaller bowl gouge because we are turning a small bowl is a NOT a good idea! Smaller tools (like a 3/8" bowl gouge) flex to much because the tool shank is less than 1/2".

The best solution for small bowls is a 1/2" bowl gouge with a double bevel. The second bevel cuts the heel off of the gouge. So the primary bevel is smaller and thus can turn faster inside of a small bowl. Like my bowl gouge in photo. There are also, some good photos of double bevel bowl gouge in magazine article.

I create the second bevel by extending the tip of the gouge an extra 1" beyond the end of my sharpening jig after sharpening the primary bevel. i.e. if primary bevel is created with tip sticking 2" out of sharpening jig, then secondary bevel is 3" sticking out.

Note: In this photo you can also see a lot of cracks in my blank. This blank is really small, so I decided to take a chance. Turn away the cracks. I was stupid, really stupid. I brought a nice DF 2×4 in from my shed out back. My damp shed! I then cut it into blanks. Glued on some glue blocks. Then I put the blocks in my furnace room while the glue dried overnight. The damp wood dried out and cracked! Err… what an idiot! Will I never learn. Fortunately, the cracks did not go to deep.

Inside of Bowl

Here is the inside of my bowl, nice and clean. Finally pass was with a nice freshly sharpened bowl gouge. See previous photo. I took several final passes. Each pass removed just a little wood at a time (like 1/8" or even 1/16" of inch) so I did not create a lot of torn grain that needs to be sanded out. I also just floated along on the bevel, rather than pushing in hard.

I decided to go with a shallow roman ogee bowl shape. Rather than a deep cereal bowl shape, like in magazine. The ogee shape is easier and more elegant in my not so humble opinion. See photo of finished bowl above.

Turn Thru the Glue Block

Here I am roughing out the outside shape of the bowl. I cut thru the glue block AS NEEDED to make room to work.

I am still using my 1/2" bowl gouge.

I used a 1-1/2" tall glue block to give me room to work here on the chuck side of the bowl. It will also give me room to part off latter.

The Golf Ball Trick

Here I have inserted a golf ball wrapper in a paper towel for padding on the tailstock side. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the golf ball so it just slips over the threads on the live center.

The golf ball supports the walls on the bowl. It allows me to make the walls 1/8" thick with out a lot of vibration. This is another good reason why you should cut the inside of the bowl first, rather than the outside.

The bowl shape is coming along nicely. I have left room on the bottom for a foot, that I am starting to form.

Thompson Gage’t

Here I am using my Keith Thompson Gage't to check the wall thickness.

Gage’t In Action

Here is a close up of the Gage't in action. To the right of the brass ball on the left you can see to gold bands and 1 black band showing between the brass ball and blue plastic. Each band is 1/16".

3 bands are showing. 3 times 1/16" is 3/16". Thus the wall thickness is 3/16" at about 3/4 of the way down the bowl. At the edge we can visually see the wall thickness is only 1/8". Thus the wall thickness is perfect, on course!

A Gage't is not cheap and in this small bowl you can just use your fingers. But, I really like the Gage't. In bigger bowls, I have found it to be a huge help to students. I often still use it, my self. I encourage all my students to get one. In the end you will spend a lot less money on screwed up bowl blanks.

Full Disclosure: Keith Thompson lives near me and is a friend. I don't get any kick backs from Keith. I had to pay full price for this Gage't.

Create Foot

Here I am creating the foot using my 1/2" double bevel detail gouge. To the right of the detail gouge in photo you can see I cut a nice clean tight junction between the foot and sides of bowl. The sharp point on detail gouge can easily do this. The round point on a bowl gouge can't get in there nice and tight.

I am also getting ready to part off. I have created space on left of detail gouge to part the bowl off. A nice 1-1/2" thick glue block gives me lots of room here.

Err………. Idiot!

Here, I decided to do something really stupid. Part of with the detail gouge. I knew there was a chance the sharp point on the detail gouge would catch and skate like a skew. And well, it did! I screwed it up good!

Part Off the Bowl

Here I am doing it right. I got my 1/8" wide parting tool and I am parting the bowl off.

A nice 1-1/2" thick glue block gives me lots of room here. I could cut the glue back some more, if I needed more space.

It looks like, I wasted 1/4" of my bowl blank height. I could have made my bowl 1/4" deeper. The next one will be better.

Remove Nib with Carving Gouge

Here I am removing the nib after parting off with a carving gouge.

Back To The Drawing Board

One of the great things about these small bowls is, you turn another one in no time. My second bowl is on the left. I refined the shape on this one a little more. More of an ogee shape. I used the extra 1/4" of depth to make a smaller foot. I really like this bowl. However, the ogee could be a little better.

Nutmeg Challenge History

From time, to time, our Nutmeg Woodturners Club in Brookfield CT, likes to have a “member challenge”. Where we challenge all the members to go home and make something. Then bring it to the next club meeting for show and tell. We give out a prize to encourage participation.

Participation is the name of the game! So there is no judging! We really want everyone to bring in something regardless of their skill level. Thus, the prize is awarded via random drawing. If you bring in something, anything, you get a ticket for the prize drawing.

Our club has done this once a year (or so) for a long time. It works good! We get lots of participation and it is fun to see what people create.

New people often don’t have access to hardwood. Thus, in the past our Nutmeg Woodturners Club has passed out wood to get the challenge started. “What can people make with a 10″ x 10″ x 2″ chunk of maple wood?”

The club purchases all the wood blanks in advance. Predicting how many blanks we need is a bit tricky, but in the end it all seem to work out. We hand out the blanks at a meeting. People pay $10 for a blank. At the next meeting you get $5 back if you bring back a finished piece. You are also get a ticket for a random prize drawing. The prize is something like a $100 Gift Certificate. Club dues fund the cost of the prize and part of the cost for the wood.

But, not this time. 2x4s are easy to obtain. Thus everyone has been asked to supply there own 2×4. See copy of email below.

Challenge Email

Here is the email I sent out to all Nutmeg Club members to get the challenge started.

Tom, Scott & Steve with Finished Pieces

Here are 3 students with the pieces they made in my class on Thursday 3/22/2018.

Left to right. Tom, Scott, and Steve.

They were taking my "2018 Winter Woodturning Workshop" class in my Studio in Poughkeepsie NY.

Scott was a new student. Scott very quickly became a very good turner.

Tom and Steve are both very good turners. They have taken the same class over and over a couple of times. We just keep doing more and more complex things. They enjoy coming to the class for fun and camaraderie.

Tom made a Vase out of Ambrosia Maple. The shape was from a photo I took in Portugal of some pottery.

Scott made a "Natural-Edge Vase" from page 101 of Mark Baker's "Weekend Woodturning Projects" book.

Steve made a "Burr Oak Bowl" in Maple (not Burr Oak) from page 131 of John Hunnex's "Woodturning Forms & Materials" book.

Future Classes

The Fall 2018 version of my "Woodturning Workshop" class in my studio is already full. I have 2 returning students and 1 new student.

The Fall 2018 version of my "Woodturning Workshop" class at the Brookfield Craft Center in Brookfield CT has space available. I have 2 returning students already signed up. The class is limited to 6 students.

For more info on my classes click here.

Scott Cutting Out the Top of the Vase

I took a couple of action shots for each student. I am just going to present them with no commentary.

I was too busy teaching to take more photos.

Scott Cutting The Stem of the Vase

Scott with Completed Vase

Tom Roughing Out the Shape of Vase

Tom Roughing Out the Rim of Vase

Tom Finalizing the Outside Shape

Tom Hollowing Out the Inside (Lathe Stopped)

Tom is using my Hollowing Rig. For more info click here.

Note: I have 2 of these Hollowing Rigs. Thus 2 out of 3 students in each class can use my Hollowing Rig. I plan to getting a 3rd Hollowing Rig, if I run into a real need for it.

Tom Hollowing Out the Inside (Lathe Running)

Tom with Completed Vase

Steve Finalizing the Outside Shape of Bowl

Steve Roughing Out the Inside

I got distracted, talking to other students, etc. and forgot to take more photos of Steve. Sorry Steve.

Headstock Shelf for Powermatic 3520C Lathe

I added a shelf to the Headstock of my new Powermatic 3520C lathe. See photo.

All of my lathes have a shelf on top of the headstock. I have found that it makes a great place to store live centers, chucks, etc. Everything is very "handy". My students and friends quickly fall in love my headstock shelves.

My old PM 3520B lathe had what I am calling a "1st generation" shelf. It was just one level. My Oneway lathes have "2nd generation" shelves. They are 2 levels. My new PM3520C has a new "3rd generation" shelf design that incorporates everything I have learned over time. I really like it! It is 3 levels.

Note: For more info on my new lathe see "My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B Lathe" blog entry.

3rd Generation Shelf

Here is a close up view of the new headstock shelf on my PM 3520C lathe. It is a 3 level design.

Click on photos for a better view.

Overall the shelf is 18" wide by 15-1/2" deep. See latter photos for more details.

1st Generation Shelf

Here is a close up of the headstock shelf on my OLD PM 3520B lathe. It was a 1 level design. The shelf was 16" wide by 16" deep.

I used this design for a long time. But it was a bit of a pain. Because, I had to store my frequently used live centers at the back. Reaching over things in the front to get the centers in back often sucked.

Live centers, etc had to go on the back because "the headstock" and the VFD (controller box) on the back of the headstock blocked most of the space under the plywood. I could only drill holes for things that stuck down below the plywood at the back of the 1 level shelf. For a better explanation see "Side View from Spindle End" photo below.

Storing any tool rests on this shelf DID NOT work. The long projections on the tool rests blocked or interfered with any thing else on the shelf.

2nd Generation Shelf

Here is a close up of the headstock shelf on one of my Oneway 2436 lathes. It is a 2 level design.

This shelf has to be a lot narrower. So, it does NOT block turning on the outboard side. The shelf is 10" wide by 14" deep.

I like the 2nd level on this design. It allows EASY access to the tool rests. The 2nd level is tall enough so I DO NOT bang my hangs into any points on live centers, etc on 1st level.

However, this design is still a little bit of a pain. Because, I have to reach over things in front to get to frequently used live centers in the back.

Note: The 2nd level is 10" wide by 2-3/4" wide and the plywood supports are 4" tall. The shelf is elevated 1.5" above the headstock by two 3/4" plywood spacers visible in photo. See "Aluminum Shelf Support on Oneway Shelf" photo at end for more details.

3rd Generation Shelf (Again)

Now I am going back to the 3rd generation shelf on my new PM 3520C lathe. Here is a photo from a higher up angle, so you can see everything.

Overall the shelf is 18" wide by 15-1/2" deep.

A place for everything and everything in its place.

Any shelf on the headstock of a lathe needs to built like a tank! It MUST be able to take any "rock rattle and roll" the lathe may be forced to endure when a rough or out of balance piece is mounted on the lathe. The shelf should not move around for any reason! Everything on the self must be secure. Anything that rattles even just a little during normal lathe operation can drive you crazy.

Plywood and Measurements

I am NOT going supply any plans or step by step photos. So here are some dimensions for anyone who wants to build their own.

Level 1 and Level 2 are 18" wide by 8" deep. Note: They overlap by a 1/2" due to tongue and groove construction. See latter photos.

Level 3 (the top) is 18" wide by 2-1/2" deep. It is supported by plywood spacers that are 2" wide by 3-1/2" tall.

The plywood back is 14" wide by 12-1/4" tall. The cutout on the left for hand wheel clearance is 7" wide by 8" tall. See latter photos.

It is 1-3/4" from the top of the Level 1 plywood to the bottom of the Level 2 plywood. i.e. the location of the dado cut in plywood back is 2" down from the top. 1/4" of the back at top is buried in a 1/4" deep dado on the bottom of Level 2. All dados are 1/4" deep.

I like everything in my studio to look nice. Thus I use reasonably good plywood and finish everything with 2 coats of Watco Golden Oak Danish Oil followed by 2 coats of Miniwax Semi Gloss Wipe On Poly.

I use good quality 3/4" 7 layer plywood from local Home Depot. ACX grade. They don't label it, but I think it is southern yellow pine. Around $38 per sheet. It comes and goes. When it comes, I stock up. There is no way I would use EXPENSIVE Birch, Maple, Oak, etc plywood because the outside veneer layers on expensive plywood is like paper thin and the stuff inside is often crap with voids. I like the outside layer of my plywood to be the same thickness as all the inside layers (roughly 1/16") so I don't end up with crap if I accidentally sand thru it or when I round the corners over. "Sanded Plywood" is ok. However, "Sande" plywood is to soft. It's crap.

I belt sand the exposed edges on all of my plywood to remove all open grain. i.e. to make them look better. I sand the flat surfaces to 220 grit with a random orbit sander and then I round the edges over with a random orbit sander. The sander creates less tear out then a router when rounding over.

If you just drive a screw into the end grain of plywood you will just split the plywood. There is no strength. To avoid this problem I capture all of my joints in dados. I glue the joint with yellow carpenters glue and screw the join with 2-1/2" decking screws. The long screw contacts more surface area. Short screws just pull out of the end grain on plywood.

My favorite band of screws is Scorpion. I ONLY use there ceramic coated decking screws. They are hi thread, square drive. You can NOT get these at Home Depot, or Lowe's. You have to go to a real hardware store. However, any good quality decking screws will do the job.

Note: It appears that the "Golden Oak" colored Watco Danish Oil is no longer available. This is a real shame. Because it is my favorite. It works real good on things with lots of holes. It is thin, you can just pour it on. It gets in all the holes on it's own. You don't have to work at it. I work over an old cafeteria tray. The tray collects the excess when I pour the oil on. When I am done, I just pour the excess back in the can and use it in the future.

Level 1 (Bottom Level)

The Level 1 plywood goes over the headstock. I then routed out the plywood to accept the stock PM rubber mat that goes on top of the headstock.

I store my chucks, live center cones, etc on Level 1. This is dictated by a no thru holes in Level 1 requirement.

On the right, the top of Level 1 bolts to the top of the cast iron lathe headstock. Thus on thru holes are possible. On the left there are no thru holes for safety! I don't want my hand to "catch" on anything hanging down when I use the hand wheel.

The left side of Level 1 can take a lot of weight. It is NOT just cantilevered out there! It is firmly supported by plywood at the back that supports Level 2 and extends down the back of the headstock. See "Support Over Hand Wheel" photo below.

Note: If you look in the bottom left corner of photo you can see the motor on the lathe. The 18" wide shelf is narrower than the motor. Latter you will see that the Level 2 part overhangs the VFD (big black control box) on the back of the lathe. Thus the shelf DOES NOT add to the overall footprint of the lathe!

Level 2 (Middle Level) and Level 3 (Top Level)

I like lots of holes in Level 2. You can never have to many holes. I can never understand why people make things with just a couple of holes.

In my 3rd Generation design I created the 2nd level and elevated it by 2-1/2" so I can have holes over the VFD. Something like a #2 MT live center sticking down thru a hole in the Level 2 plywood does NOT hit the top of the VFD on back of headstock. In my 1st Generation design, no holes were possible over the VFD.

The holes vary in size. So small things do NOT fall thru the holes. All of the big holes in Level 2 and Level 3 are 1-1/8" diameter. This works good for tool rests, and most #2 MT things. Because most #2 MT things have a head on them that is bigger than 1-1/8". I drill a few 11/16" holes for #2 MT things with a small head. I drill lots of holes that will accept the "Red Bar" Oneway ships with it's face plates, etc. I find that size holes works good for lots of things. Then some smaller 3/16" holes for Oneway Live Center knock out bar, etc.

The line of small holes at the front of Level 2 go down into the plywood back. Most of them are not very deep.

I drill the big holes with Forstner bits to minimize tear out and then round over the edges using a 3/16" round over router bit. I drill the smaller holes with brad point bits and then round over the edges using a SINGLE flute counter sink.

The big holes in Level 3 line up with the Level 2 holes. So long tool posts, etc just go thru both levels. I clamp Level 3 to Level 2 and then drill the hole all the way thru.

Level 1 – Left Side

The 3 wooden knobs sticking up help me secure things on the left side of Level 1. They are slighly smaller than the 1-1/4" spindle threads on the lathe. There are 3 more knobs on the left under UHMW codes and Colet Chunk. Then another one under the big chuck. The knobs keep things from shifting around when the lathe "rocks rattles and rolls".

In my old 1st Generation design, I drilled show big shallow holes for the chuck. See "1st Generation Shelf" photo above. That did not work out well. The knobs are a better solution.

I turned the knobs with 3/4" tenons on the bottoms that fit into 3/4" non thru holes in plywood.

Just to right of the Oneway chuck is the wrench for the chuck. Pointed to by blue arrow in photo. I REALLY like having the wrench sticking up like this rather than going thru a hole. If it goes thru a hole then the bar on the end of the wrench takes up to much space and fouls things up. When the wrench sticks up like this, it is easy to find and use.

The thing the chuck wrench fits into is 1-1/2" in diameter hard maple with a 3/4" tenon on the bottom to fit into plywood. The tenon has a 5/16" thru hole so any saw dust drops thru rather than clogging things up. The top is drilled and hollowed with a spindle gouge until the wrench fits in there like a glove.

Level 1 – Right Side

I drilled holes for special things behind the mat on the right side of Level 1. Things, I don't want to lose because they cost to much to replace. I size the holes to be just right. Pointed to by green arrow in photo.

From left to right. The Slide Off pin from Tailstock end of PM lathe in a nut. The Oneway Chuck screw. Center point from Oneway Live Center, Knock out bar for Oneway Live Center. The red thing is a neat little Allen wrench from Trent Bosch.

Level 1 – Powermatic Mat Removed

This photo shows what is under the PM Mat that comes with the lathe. I routed out the plywood to allow the mat to sit there nicely. It needs to be deep around the outside and shallow in the middle to support the mat. In the front it needs to drop down a bit to match the mat.

The 2 silver flat head screws pointed to by blue arrow in photo, are really the top of 5/16" flat head bolts that I use to attach the shelf to top of headstock. I drill thru the plywood to line things up. Then remove the plywood and tap 5/16" x 18 holes.

Note: The headstock shelf is also supported by a piece of plywood bolted to the back of the headstock. See "Support Over Hand Wheel" photo below.

Level 2 & Level 3

Here is a different view of Level 2 & Level 3.

Level 3 Support & Thru Holes

The plywood spacers between Level 2 and Level 3 are 2" wide by 3-1/2" tall. Each spacer has two 3/8" diameter holes that go all the way thru from top to bottom. I drilled them on my drill press.

I temp screwed Level 2 to Level 3 (with out the spacers). First I drilled counter sink holes in the top of Level 3 for 5/16" diameter FLAT head bolts with a SINGLE flute countersink. Then I drilled 5/16" diameter holes all the way thru both levels.

After stain and poly, I used 5 min epoxy and 6" long 5/16" flat head bolts to attach Level 3 to Level 2. I then cut off the excess bolt length. The 3/8" thru holes in spacers gave me enough wiggle room to line things up. The epoxy eliminated the wiggle after it was dry. I epoxied the nuts on because they came lose on my Oneway lathes. See "The Back" photo below for nuts on bottom of bolts.

This photo also gives you a better view of the thru holes from Level 2 to Level 3. The long tool post on the Steve Sinner tool rest goes thru both levels. The bluish grey tool rest. Steve makes his tool posts long so they work with stock PM banjo.

Side View from Spindle End

I elevated Level 2 to make it easier to see and access things that were behind things on Level 1

This photo also shows another reason why I elevated Level 2 on my 3rd Generation design. Because, I wanted Live Centers, etc stored in the Level 2 holes to clear the VFD on back of lathe. Note: The VFD is inside of the big black box on the back of the lathe.

Zoom In Side View from Spindle End

The green arrow in photo points to a 1/4" deep dado in the back plywood that captures the Level 1 plywood. This allows me to screw the back plywood to Level 1 with out splitting it.

Side View from Hand Wheel End

For people who want to make something similar.

Zoom In Side View from Hand Wheel End

Another photo for people who want to make something similar.

Note: The photo was taken from a perspective that makes it appear things are not square and/or level. Everything is square and level in the real world.

Support Over Hand Wheel

The blue arrow in photo points to the plywood on the back that really supports everything. Level 1 and Level 2 are NOT just cantilevered out there.

There is NO WAY I want to bang or catch my hand on anything when I use the hand wheel. Thus nothing hangs down from above into this space. The plywood on the back is cut out to create a nice big clearance space and all the corners are rounded over. The cutout in back plywood for hand wheel clearance is 7" wide by 8" tall.

The green arrow in photo points to a 1/4" deep dado in the back plywood that captures the Level 1 plywood.

See photos below for more plywood on the back shots.

Plywood Down The Back

The red arrow in photo points to the plywood that goes down the back of headstock. It really supports everything.

I removed the VFD (the black box on the back of the headstock) and installed the plywood using the VFD threaded mounting holes on the back of the headstock. To do this, you have to removed the back cover from VFD. Then reach in there with an Allen wrench to remove the cap head screws (aka bolts) that attach the black cover to headstock. I replaced the cap head screws with longer ones. Long enough to go thru 3/4" plywood. I drilled holes in the plywood that matched holes in black VFD cover. Then bolted everything back together thru the VFD cover. Not easy. I also had to remove and reinstall the ground wire connection to headstock. This was a pain. I had to drill a 1" hole in plywood to clear the ground wire and screw. I did NOT remove any of the wires from the VFD. I just worked around them. Not easy, but doable.

The back of the headstock is slanted inward. Thus, there is a space between the plywood and headstock. See green arrow in photo. This space is there because the VFD mounting holes go into cast iron stand offs on the back of the cast iron headstock.

Note: I known some people are not going to like dorking around with the VFD. It was my last resort. On my old PM 3520B lathe the back of the headstock was wider. Thus I got away with mounting the plywood on the back by just running it next to VFD. This was not possible on new PM 3520C lathe because the VFD with the new cover takes up almost all the space on back of headstock. See next photo.

The Back

Here is what the back looks like. I took this photo when I had the headstock removed from the lathe while moving the lathe.

The magenta arrow in photo points to a 1/4" deep by 3/4" wide dado slot in the bottom of the 2nd level plywood. It is not easy to see in photo! The back plywood extends up 1/4" into this slot. Thus the back plywood did NOT split, when I glued and screwed the 2nd level plywood down to the back plywood with 2-1/2" decking screws.

If I had to do again, I would replace the plywood level 2 shelf support triangles with a custom bent aluminum bar. See red arrow in NEXT photo.

The aluminum bar would come down from one of the nuts under 3rd level support (green arrow in photo) to the bottom of plywood triangle (blue arrow in photo).

Aluminum Shelf Support on Oneway Shelf

This photo shows the shelf on the back of my Oneway 2436 lathe. Note: See "2nd Generation Shelf" photo above for the front view.

The red arrow in photo points to an aluminum shelf support that I created out of a 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide piece of aluminum bar stock from local hardware store. This chunk of aluminum takes the place of the plywood triangles in the above design. If, I had to do again, I would use aluminum bar in the above design. Easier and better looking.

Note: The plywood is attached to the back of the Oneway headstock with 4 black 5/16" socket head cap screws. You can see 2 of them in photo. I used some 1/2" hex nuts between the plywood and metal headstock to "stand off" the plywood so it would clear the round part of headstock. All of the steel used by Oneway is hard stuff. I think it may end up getting work hardened when it is bent and welded by Oneway. Thus, drilling and tapping the holes for the bolts is no easy task!

Bottom Shelf for Powermatic 3520C Lathe

I added a Bottom Shelf to my new Powermatic 3520C lathe with roughly 240 lbs of stone weight. It is really a two level shelf. With stone on the bottom and a storage shelf above.

The new shelf is similar to one on my old Powermatic 3520B lathe. But, better. Wider and I painted it to match the lathe. See very last photo for old PM 3520B self.

I believe that all lathes, no matter how good they are, can benefit from 200+ lbs of weight added to the bottom. It reduces the "rock rattle and roll" of the lathe when you mount a big and/or out of balance piece on the lathe.

Note: For more info on my new lathe see "My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B Lathe" blog entry.

Lets Skip Ahead for a Minute

The above photo has all of the stone I added for weight covered up so you can NOT see it.

Here is what the stone looked like before I covered it up.

Now lets go back and see how I made the shelf.

Bottom of Leg on PM 3520C Lathe

Here is what the bottom of the legs on the new PM 3520C lathe look like. I have the 4" riser blocks installed.

The photo also shows upper and lower shelf supports that are cast into the PM 3520C legs.

My Shelf Support

The bottom of the shelf on my old PM 3520B lathe was roughly 9" off the floor. I liked that shelf height. It left room for my human feet under the shelf. It was relatively easy to clean under. It also left room for a second shelf on top of the stone where I could store things like my jam and vacuum chucks.

I have also added shelves to my Oneway 2436 lathes. I have decided that 8" under the shelf for your feet and clean up is a good height.

On my old PM 3520B lathe I used the upper shelf support cast into the legs. It was good. I decided it was NO good on my new PM 3520C lathe with the riser blocks installed. Both the upper and lower cast in shelf supports are to high up for my purposes. Your mileage may vary.

Thus I decided to make my own shelf support. I cut a 2×4 to fit on top of the feet. See photo. I reduced the height of the 2×4 to make the bottom of shelf 8" above the floor.

For something like this you are better off going with a nice Douglass Fir 2×4 from your local lumber yard. Avoid the cheaper pine 2x4s. DF only costs a buck or two more.

Close Up of My Shelf Support

Here is a close up shot of how I cut the end of my shelf supports on the band saw to fit. With 200+ lbs of weight on the shelf I figure it will be secure enough. Thus no bolts or glue. Latter, I will screw the shelf down to the shelf supports so they can not shift around and come out.

Plywood Top to Block Shavings

I do not want any wood shavings getting behind my shelf supports. If the shavings are wet, or get wet then they would rust out the legs.

Thus I cut and installed a 1/8" thick piece of birch plywood to fit nice and snug.

Note: I already had some 1/8" thick birch plywood. Thus, that is what I used. A piece of 1/4" plywood or 1/8" real wood paneling would work just as well.

Stone for Weight

I like to use stone for weight. If you use sand it runs out all over the floor thru any small hole.

I get my stone in the landscaping dept of local big box store. I like mini marble chips because they are heavy and small enough to fit close together in a bag.

Here I am measuring the bag. It is roughly 15" wide and 40 lbs. I am going to use 6 of these bags. 6 * 40 = 240 lbs.

Test Fit of Shelf and Stone

See next photo for more info.

Two Piece Shelf

My bottom shelf is 15-1/2" wide by roughly 51 inches long. I cut the length to fit tightly in the space.

I made my shelf out of a 10' foot long Douglas Fir 2×12. The lumber was #2 grade. But, I looked thru the pile to find a piece with minimal knots.

The front half of the shelf is the standard 11-1/4" 2×12 width. I cut the back part of the shelf to make it overall 15-1/2" wide.

I have found that Douglas Fir is strong enough to span the 4+ feet with out any braces or cross ties underneath.

End Of Shelf

Getting the shelf in there is not an easy task. The U shape of the legs means you can not just slide it in there from the front or back.

This photo shows how I made the 2×12 shelf roughly 1" short. Then filled in the 1" latter. This allowed me to get the shelf in there. I added the filler to add strength. The 2×12 can not shift left/right with the filler in there. Cutting off 1" was no big deal, from a strength point of view because the last 1" extends beyond the 2×4 in the bottom. The filler also prevents wet shavings from collecting and rusting out the leg.

I was able to get the narrower back half of the shelf in there, with out cutting it.

After I paint things, I will secured the shelf to the supporting 2×4 with 3" deck screws. Any good deck screw will do. I prefer Scorpion band course thread ceramic coated screws.

After I screwed things down there was no way the shelf was going to move left/right or front/back. Even if the lathe rocked, rattled and rolled.

Time to Paint

In this photo I am painting the self supports. I decide to paint everything in advance. Up on my work bench. I am getting to old to bend over.

I can't understand how people can spend time working in a dark crappy looking studio. I like my studio to be a bright and airy place to work. Thus, I painted the shelf to match the lathe.

I took the door off of the tailstock and took it down to my local Sherwood Williams store. I asked them to match the color. They scanned it with there computer gadget and the color came out real close.

I asked them to give me a quart of there toughest paint. They gave me some Sherwood Williams "All Surface Enamle – Acrylic Latex Interious / Exterior". They used 6509-00640 Ultradeep Base. In a gloss finish. I am not really sure about the gloss part. So far, I am real happy. The paint seems to be really though. I can slide the chucks around on the shelf with no noticable scratches yet.

I primed the bare wood with Sherwood Williams "Multi Purpose – Latex Primer" before I put on the above paint. I have found that this primer is real tough. It bounds to anything. It even bonds to the skin on your hands. Don't ask how I known!

I decided to head off a lot of questions here by telling people every last detail about the paint I used. I like Sherwood Williams, but it is not the only fish in the sea. Home Depot and Lowe's also have computers that can match paint colors. They also have good paints. The Sherwood Williams store is close to my studio.

Note: John Deer also makes a "Construction Yellow Paint" TY25627 that I have found is close to Powermatic Yellow. NOT an exact match. It is a little to yellow and bright. But, it is close. It comes in a rattle spray can. The very strong smell and the directions are almost identical to the Rust-Oleum Professional line of paints.

Flatten The Bags

I used a scrap 2×4 and a small sledge hammer to flatten out the bags of stone as I installed them.

6 Bags of Stone

Here is what the 6 bags of stone looked like after I installed them. They fit in there real nice. Each bag is roughly 40 lbs. 6 * 40 = 240 lbs.

Close Up of Stone

The stone filled up the entire space real nice after I flattened it out with a 2×4 and sledge hammer.

Test Fit of Top Shelf

Here is the top shelf. I made it out of good quality 3/4" plywood. It is 16" wide so it overhangs the 15-1/2" wide shelf on the bottom. The overhang will cover up the top of the plywood that goes on the front.

I added a 3/4" square nailer strip to the bottom of the plywood to allow me to install a sheet of plywood on the front.

The ends of the plywood was scribed and cut to fit very tightly. I don't want any wet wood shavings falling down around the ends and rusting out the legs.

The plywood is roughly 50" long. I had to cut it into two pieces to get it to fit in there. See next photo.

Note: This photo is the same as the #2 photo above.

Top Shelf is Two Pieces

This photo shows how I cut the plywood in two pieces to get it between the legs. I used my Biscuit Joiner to install some biscuits to line up the plywood ends.

You can also see in this photo that I belt sanded the front edges of the plywood were it will be exposed. I removed all open grain. After I paint it, you will hardly even known it is plywood.

Cut and Test Fit Front Plywood

I cut a piece of 1/8" Birch plywood to go on the front. I don't want those bags of stone collecting wood shavings and driving me crazy for the rest of my life.

After I screw the front and back plywood in place it will actually support the top shelf and make it rock solid.

Time To Paint Again

Here is the primer coat. See "Time To Paint" photo above for paint info.

Top Coat

Here is the top coat. See "Time To Paint" photo above for paint info.

Just one primer coat. Followed by one top coat. I put the paint on with a small 3" wide roller.

Shelf and Chip Guard

This photos shows the bottom self all installed and ready to go. I installed the plywood on the front with some gold button head screws. The kind Kreg sells with its pocket hole jig.

You can also see my chip guard hanging down from some black wire ties under the ways of the lathe. This chip guard deflects all the wood chips that would drop between the ways of the lathe down a slope and out the back of the lathe. At this point the wire ties are loose. While I dork around with things. Latter I will sinch up the front of the chip guard to be tight to the bottom of ways in the front ONLY.

The chip guard is made out of 1/8" Birch plywood. You can see in photo that it is cut out to go around legs on the end. You could also use 1/8" plywood paneling rather than birch plywood.

I drilled holes thru the bed of the lathe for the wire ties. I then painted the holes with some black acrylic paint using a small round artist paint brush.

Chip Guard

Here is another photo of the chip guard. See previous photo for info.

The Back

This photos shows the back. It is made out of one piece of 1/8" Birch plywood. Flexing it to fit in there in one piece was anything but easy!

The plywood comes all the way up in back to form the back of the top shelf from the front. See photos below. It also supports the back of the chip guard.

You can see the chip guard slopes down in the back. The chip guard is NOT fastened in the back. Very important! This allows me to reach thru the ways and tap it up and down to clear any stubborn wood shavings.

I left the middle top of the chip guard primer white. I did not paint it yellow. To make it easier to find things when I drop them in there.

Note: On my old PM 3520B I did NOT enclose the back of the stone. This turned out to be a mistake. Wood shavings collected in there and were a pain to clean out. I also did not slope the chip guard down as much. I corrected that mistake this time around.

Shelf All Done

Here is a photo of the finished shelf.

Chip Guard All Done

This photo shows how the chip guard sloped down when I was all finished. I left the bottom of the chip guard primer white to reflect light down onto the shelf.

Shelf In Use

This photo shows the shelf all done and loaded up with my jam and vacuum chucks.

Pry Bar Used To Move Lathe

I needed to move the lathe out to work on back and take photos. This photo shows how I used a pry bar to move the lathe out.

I can still move it, even with the 200+ lbs of stone weight on the shelf. It is not easy, but it is doable. Lift it with one hand and shove it around with the other.

Old PM 3520B Shelf

This photo shows the bottom shelf under my old PM 3520B lathe. It was not as nice.

1st Hollow Form on New Powermatic 3520C Lathe

The second thing I turned on my new Powermatic 3520C Lathe was a nice cherry hollow form.

Here is the hollow form, all done.

I put a high gloss finish on this piece. Gloss sells. But, it made getting a good photo a real pain. To many reflections.

7-1/2" diameter. 7-3/4" tall. Cherry wood.

The blank was a little out of balance. But, it did NOT give me any trouble. My new Powermatic 3520C lathe, handled it, no problem.

Note: Full disclosure. I also have a big VB36 lathe that I use for most of my hollow form turning. Turning this hollow form on my new Powermatic 3520C was a "one off" kind of thing. I did it, to check out the new lathe and write this blog entry.

Me and My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe

Here I am all suited up and all ready to go. Standing in front of my new Powermatic 3520C Lathe.

For more info about my new lathe see "My New Powermatic 3530C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B" blog entry.

I really like the color of the Powermatic Turning Smock that I am wearing. Over time I have owned a lot of smocks. I have found that the AAW Turning Smock is the best design for me. It is light weight, well ventilated, sheds wood savings easily and comes out of the washing machine, looking like new. However, I really hate the blue and other dark colors! The PM smock is the same design and fabric. Just a lot better color.

Well, there is one difference / problem. The PM smock zips on the left. Most men's clothes in the US and the AAW smock zip on the right. I had to purchase my own PM smock on the web. The $50 price is the same as the AAW smock. Shipping is not cheap.

Cherry Blank Between Centers

Here is the cherry wood log blank that I started with. My silver 1 foot ruler is on top.

The blank was roughly 10" long. The blank was a bit oval and thus the diameter was difficult to measure. Sort of 9" diameter.

You can also see that the blank had a big knot in the side from a branch. I really like the interesting grain pattern this added to the finished piece. See first photo above. However, it can make the piece hard to hollow when your hollowing tool bounces around due to the hard spot created by the grain around the knot.

You can also see I am driving the blank with my big gold drive center from Stubby Lathe USA. They are no longer available. If I wanted to purchase one today, I would have to go with a Elio-DR Safe Drive or Big Bite Chuck Spur. See my "Best Drive Center" blog entry.

You can also see that the chain saw cut on the end of the log was a bit off. It is not very square. This and the knot are going to make the blank out of balance when I turn the lathe on. See next photo.

Powermatic 3520C Stability Video

I was pleasantly surprised to find my new lathe was able to spin this sort of out of balance log at 500 rpm. Almost not problem. See the video at right. Take note of the glass of water on the bed of the lathe.

The log was sort of out of balance due to the NON square cut on the end of the log and the bit knot. See previous photo.

I strongly believe that all lathes can be vastly improved by adding 200+ lbs of weight to a shelf on the bottom of lathe. This makes them run a lot more stable. In this video I have NOT added any weight yet. Thus I was not expecting it to be this stable.

I will be adding a shelf with 200+ lbs of weight to this lathe. I have already done it. Stay turned for a future blog entry.

Note: One data point does not really prove anything. Your mileage may vary! I am sure my mileage will vary. Maybe the piece is not really all that far out of balance.

Movable Control Box.

This photo shows how I moved the new movable control box for the lathe. While I was truing up the end of the log. I am getting ready to mount a face plate.

Trued Up End

This photo shows the end of the log after I trued it up. I am getting ready to mount it on a face plate.

Oneway Banjo

The new PM banjo that comes with the new PM 3520C is better than the old PM 3520B banjo. But, I still really do not like the offset design of the PM banjo.

I strongly prefer the NON offset design of the Oneway banjo shown in this photo. It allows me to get the banjo in there with out having to crank the quill in the tailstock way out. For more info see Oneway Banjo section of "My New Powermatic 3530C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B" blog entry.

The stock PM tool rest is ok. But, it is to tall to fit in a Oneway banjo. PM make their banjos extra low to accommodate there tool rest.

The tool rest you see here is the one I prefer. It was custom made for me. It is very similar to the one I really love on my big VB36 lathe. I like my tool rests to be at least a 1/2" wide and almost flat on top so I can feel when my bowl gouge is straight across on top of the rest. I also prefer really beefy and strong tool rests. So there is absolutely no flex or vibration out near the end of the rest. Thus I like my rests to be made out of a 1/2" thick by 2" wide STEEL bar. With a 1" post that slopes off at 45 degrees, 3/4" of an inch below the top of the rest. With a really big and beefy weld between the post and steel bar. I like to have 4", 9" and 14" long tool rests for each lathe.

I do NOT like the Oneway tool rests or the Robust tools rests with the silly little round bar on top. "To each is own!"

Attach Oneway Face Plate

This photo shows me attaching a Oneway face plate after truing up the end of the blank.

I strongly prefer to use face plates rather than chucks. With proper screws they are the most secure way to mount something on the lathe.

I like to use #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws. I prefer square drive. www.mcmaster.com item #93945A071 for 1.5 inch long screws. I can easily drive the screws in with a Cordless Impact Driver. You can see my Makita impact driver in the background.

The Powermatic Face Plate

This photos shows the 3" PM face plate that comes with a PM 3520C lathe, on the left. A Oneway 4" face plate is on the right.

The thin little crappy cast iron face plates that come with most modern lathes, are worthless. They will crack almost instantly if you really screw them down with decent screws. The PM face plate is thick and beefy. Thus it is ok. A big step above what comes with most lathes. I some times use it. But, for this size log the bigger 4" Oneway face plate is a better choice.

Blank on Face plate

Here is the blank mounted on a face plate. Ready to turn.

I ALWAYS use the tailstock when possible for safety. It takes like 20 seconds to put the tailstock in place. Going to the hospital to get stitched up takes hours!

Round Blank

Here is what the blank looked like after I roughed it down to round.

I like to use a John Jordan 5/8" V Bowl Gouge to rough turn things. John's V shape is deep and wide open at the top. It just seems to work better than anything else I have tried. It cuts really fast and consistently throws a chip that I can easily aim to land directly in my trash can.

For more info see "My Modern Woodturning Tool Set" blog entry.

Rough Shape

Here is what the blank looked like after I roughed in a shape.

I always start on the left. I remove a chuck of wood with a 45 degree angle cut this is big enough to get me back above the screws. This way I known, latter when I turn my finial shape, the the bottom will NOT end up in the screws. Then I extend the 45 degree cut a little more to the right when my bottom shape will allow it.

I work on the right, after I get the left roughed in. I removed a chunk of wood on the right with a 45 degree angle cut when my top shape will allow it. Then I true up the top of the blank and make it a little concave.

I usually do this step using my Jordan 5/8" V Bowl Gouge.

Finished Outside Shape

Here is the finished outside shape.

I find that cutting the shape using the "wing" on a 5/8" Ellsworth Bowl Gouge works best. I cut the rim detail using my 1/2" Hosaluk Double Bevel Detail Gouge.

In the past, I would then shear scrape with my Ellsworth Bowl Gouge or an Al Stirt style shear scrapper. In really green wood, I have progressed to the point where I can now cut the outside shape cleaner using my 1/2" Hosaluk Double Bevel Detail Gouge. You can see in the photo that the surface is pretty good. I have NOT sanded it yet.

7-1/2″ Diameter

The finished piece ended up being roughly 7-1/2" in diameter.

You can clearly see in this photo that the pith ended up being off center. Some people would be upset by this. I have decided I really don't care. I just don't want the pith IN the rim. Anywhere else in the top, where it will get cut OUT, when I hollow is OK.

The pith regardless of where it is (on center or off center) in the bottom will always cause cracks. It will also, always cause some distortion in the rim. I don't really care. I have learned to love the distortion it adds. It makes each piece unique and more artistic.

7-3/4″ Tall

Here is a nice side profile shot. The finished piece ended up being roughly 7-3/4" tall.

To Drill or Not To Drill

I always drill out the center on my pieces using a 1" diameter morse tapper shank drill. The drill mounts directly in the tail stock via the morse taper shank.

Drilling out the center, establishes my inside bottom depth and makes the hollowing process a lot easier and faster.

The funny copper thing attached to the drill is my laser guide. It makes drilling the hole to the correct depth, fast and easy. A red laser points down from the green tip. It shows precisely where the tip of the drill is inside of the blank. You can not see the red laser beam in the photo. But you can see the red dot from the laser on the very tip of the drill if you look closely.

Hollowing Rig with TV

This photo shows my Hollowing Rid with TV Camera and TV Screen.

I ALWAYS hollow with the lathe running in reverse. Thus the cutter head in this photo is set up to cut on the right side.

I use a Trent Bosch Hollowing Stabilizer rig with a Rolly Munro cutter head.

I really love the Bosch Stabilizer. Because, it takes all the stress out of holding the hollowing tool level and it does not let the hollowing tool twist or roll over. However, It DOES NOT restrict my movement. I still have a tool handle, like on my bowl gouges and free hand hollowing tools. I can keep that tool handle up against my body, unlock my knees and use my body to hollow out a nice shape. Just like, I do when turning a bowl. Just like, I have practiced over and over again, while learning to turn a bowl. I don't like any of the other hollowing rigs (Jamieson, Elbo, Monster, etc) because they restrict my movement and I have to maneuver the tools using just my arms. I can't use my body.

I use a "Munro Hollower II" cutter head with a carbide cutter. I purchase the cutter head from Steve Sinner and supply my own custom 3/4" steel bar. I like the older "Munro Hollower II" rather than the new "Munro Wundercutt 10 Hollower". The new one does not work as well for this application.

I have created my own TV system. Finding the right camera is a HUGE problem. Thus I recommend people purchase the Trent Bosch Visualizer system. It is not cheap at $650. However, making your own system may approach this cost after a few miss steps, etc.

For more info on my hollowing rig click here.

TV System in Action

This photo shows the TV system in action. In the lower half, you can see the Munro cutter head is just starting to hollow out the top of the piece. Pointed to by magenta arrow in photo.

On the TV you can see part of the cutter head is exposed. The other part is represented by the blue line on screen. Pointed to by the blue arrow on photo.

The red line is my target wall thickness. Pointed to by the red arrow in photo. The red line is 1/4" away from blue line in real life down on the tool rest. Up on the TV monitor it is more like 1/2" due to magnification of TV camera and monitor.

The green arrow on photo points to the tiny TV camera.

My TV camera works best in low light. So I normally shut most of the overhead lights off. The bright light on the piece in photo is for the photo.

I draw the red and blue lines on the TV screen with white board dry erase markers. They did not show up well in my photo with the bright light for photo. Thus I enhanced them (redrew them) in Photoshop. I also added the red, blue, green and magenta arrows in Photoshop.

Cutter Head on TV

This photo shows the completely hidden cutter head represented by blue and red lines on TV screen. The blue line is the outline of the cutter head. The red line is my target wall thickness.

In the real world, after I draw the red and blue lines on the TV screen they ALWAYS move in sync with the cutter head. Because the TV camera moves in sync with the cutter head. i.e. the TV camera is always directly over and pointing down at the cutter head. Back up 2 photos to see TV camera mount. For more info see "Trent Bosch Visualizer" on YouTube.

In this case, I want my finial wall thickness to be roughly 3/16". Thus I have drawn the red line so it is 1/4" away from blue line. I will rough the wall thickness to 1/4" by going to the outside of the red line. Then. I will come back with a finish cut to the inside of the red line. The red line on screen is roughly 1/16" of wall thickness wide. Thus I will end up with a 3/16" finial wall thickness.

Note: I enhanced the red and blue lines in this photo in Photoshop.

Inside of Hollow Form

This photo shows the inside of the hollow form after I have hollowed it out partially. The rim is pretty much finished. The side walls are still a little thick. The depth hole, I drilled in the center is still visible.

Let There be Light

In this photo I am double checking the wall thickness with a $10 Jansjo LED light from Ikea. The really bright part of the piece is the white sap wood on the Cherry log. The darker part is the brown heart wood. The WET sap wood always transmits more light than the heart wood.

Everything looks good here. I am done hollowing.

This photo also shows my normal almost dark lighting in the room. You can see on the TV screen that my TV camera is real happy with this level of light.

Ready to Sand

This photo shows the bottom cleaned up. Ready to be sanded and then parted

I used a bowl gouge to start finishing up the bottom. I removed any extra wood I left earlier to support the piece while hollowing. Then I sand.

Sanded and Buffed

This photo shows the piece after it has been sanded to 220 then buffed with synthetic steel wood and a towel.

I started with a green (aka soaking wet) log. But, in this case, it was not to wet. Thus I got away with sanding and buffing it on the lathe.

First I sand with red 80 and 120 grit Sia Soft cloth & foam back sand paper from "Vince's Wooden Wonders". I use 9 or 10 3" x 4" pieces of Sia Soft. At first, each piece jams very quickly with a short of brown mush because the wood is wet. You get brown mush rather than saw dust. However, friction dries the SURFACE of the wood as you go. Eventually the sand paper comes away almost clean.

Then, I switch to 3" round Mirka AutoNet Mesh sanding disks from "Buff Daddy". I sand thru 120, 180 and then 220 grits. I never go beyond 220. I buff beyond 220! AutoNet is very similar to AbraNet made by Mirka. AutoNet is cheaper. Otherwise I can't tell the difference.

Then, I buff with Carl Ford Medium and Fine synthetic steel wool (nylon mesh pads, scotch brite pads, etc). I prefer the Silicon Carbide stuff that is for use on metals. I use it on wood. No problem. I get it from McMaster Carr, item # 4659A17 and 4659A18. Mcmaster calls it ulta, super dupper, extra fine or something crazy like that. I just call it medium and fine.

Finally, I buff with a blue Surgical Cotton Huck Towel from Amazon.

It Looks Good!

Another photo of the piece after it has been sanded and buffed.

The circular grain on the right is the knot from the branch. See photos at beginning. The white on the left is the sap wood. The brown is the heart wood.

Jam Chuck

This photo shows a jam chuck that is the perfect size for my stretch wrap plastic trick. Just a little smaller than the piece. See next photo.

Stretch Wrapped

This photo shows the piece being held on the jam chuck via stretch wrap.

This will allow me to finish the bottom with out a vacuum chuck. I try to avoid using my vacuum chuck system when the piece is wet green wood. Because, the vacuum sucks the water unevenly out of the piece.

You can purchase stretch wrap in 4" wide rolls from local office supply store.

Bottom Ready for Sanding

This photo shows the piece after I removed the face plate and cut away the excess wood with a 1/2" bowl gouge. I like to use a 1/2" bowl gouge with an Al Stirt grind to remove most of the wood. I then use my 1/2" Hosaluk Double Bevel Detail Gouge to cut off the last little nib and finish up.

Bottom Ready For Finish

This photos shows the bottom all sanded and buffed. Ready for finish.

Ready for Finish

This photo shows the piece all done. Ready for a finish.

Oh Man Look at that Rust!

This photo shows why some people waste a ton of money on stupid stainless steels ways for their lathe. They think this is rust. NO WAY! This is not rust.

I was turning a nice green (i.e. wet) cherry log. The sap in a cherry log is a thin brown colored liquid. When you turn a wet cherry log on a lathe the sap comes flying out and lands on the ways. When it drys on the ways it looks like this. Yea, it may look like rust. But, it is not!

You can easily clean this mess off with a little WD40, a chunk of synthetic steel wool, and a paper towel. See next photo.

You have to clean this mess up EVEN if you have stainless steel ways! Yea, that's right! Stainless ways DO NOT stop the mess from happening! You have to clean the ways even if they are stainless. So why waste a ton of money on stainless?

Stainless steel ways cost big bucks. I can purchase a ton of WD40 for a lot less.

All Cleaned Up

This photos shows the ways of the lathe after I cleaned off the brown cherry wood sap. It took like 2 minutes.

1st Plate Bowl on New Powermatic 3520C Lathe

The first thing I turned on my new Powermatic 3520C Lathe is what I call a plate bowl. A plate with a little bowl in the center. I like to turn this shape and then use it as a canvas that I can decorate.

Here is the finished plate bowl.

10" diameter. 1-1/2" tall. Maple wood. Lathe and hand carved rings and grooves. Red stain. Gold acrylic paint. Acrylic lacquer finish.

Turning this on my new Powermatic 3520C was as “easy as pie”. No mounting problems. No vibration problems, etc. This piece is small and easy. Thus, I was not expecting any problems.

Note: I am teaching a plate class at the Brookfield Craft Center on Saturday and Sunday, May 5 and 6, 2018. We will be making similar plates or plate bowls in that class.

My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe

Here is what my new lathe looks like.

For more info see "My New Powermatic 3530C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B" blog entry.

The Blank

Here is the blank mounted on a screw in my chuck. The blank is a chunk of hard maple wood. Roughly 2" thick by 10-1/2" in diameter.

I just cut the corners off on the band saw. I made absolutely no attempt to make the blank round on the band saw. I have a lathe for making things round!

Here I am getting ready to true up the face of the blank.

You can see here why I do not like the stock Powermatic banjo with its offset tool post design. I have to crank the quill in the tailstock way out to get the offset Powermatic banjo in there. The quill is way to far out for safety in my opinion.

This is why I strongly prefer the NON offset design of Oneway banjos. For more info see Oneway Banjo section of "My New Powermatic 3530C Lathe Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B" blog entry.

Bottom Roughed Out

Here I roughed out the bottom of the plate bowl. I am ready to turn the blank around and work on the front.

First I turned the outside round and slightly down hill from the top. The top is on the headstock side. Then, I turned a tenon on the bottom that matches my Oneway Stronghold Chuck. I left the rest of the blank pretty thick so I can cut grooves on the other side. If I made the plate wall thin now, then it would flex to much, when I tried to cut the grooves.

Top Finished

Hind site is always 20/20. I wish I took more photos. I forgot to take some photos of top side trued up. Then another photo of me cutting the bowl.

In this photo, I am getting ready to paint the gold rings. Painting between well defined lines is easy with the lathe running. Thus, I first cut some shallow coves to hold the gold paint and then some V grooves on either side to create well defined lines.

At this point I have NOT thinned out the plate. The bottom is still thick, like in previous photo. I am going to thin it out latter, at the very end.

Power Carve the Radial Grooves

I removed the CHUCK from the lathe. I left the piece in the chuck! Latter, I want to be able to remount the piece and still have it run true.

I laid out the radial lines with a pencil. Then I carved the lines with a V chisel in my Ryobi power carver. After carving, I removed any left over pencil lines and eased over any hard edges with a 3M radial bristle disk.

For more info see my "Power Carving Textures" blog entry.

Unfortunately, from this point on I forgot to take step by step photos.

Stain It Red

I stained the entire top and sides with red alcohol based stain. I forced the stain into all of the rings and grooves.

I let the stain dry for a while. Or, did I let it dry over night? I really don’t remember.

Paint the Gold Rings

After the stain dried. I put the chuck with the piece still mounted in it, back on the lathe. I painted the gold rings that I turned in with gold acrylic paint. With the lathe running slowly. With a 1/4″ round paint brush. I wanted the red stain to show thru the paint a bit, but not to much. Thus I adjusted the thickness / thinness of the paint with some air brush medium.

I then removed the chuck again from lathe.

After the gold paint dried I sealed the entire top surface with a couple of coats of rattle can lacquer.

Paint the Gold Grooves

After sealing, I painted the grooves that I carved in with gold acrylic paint. I used a 1/4″ round paint brush. This was not easy. I had to dork around a lot. Wipe it off some. Paint some on, again. Until I ended up with the paint, just in the groves, with some red showing thru.

I sealed the entire top surface again, after the paint dried, with a couple of coats of rattle can lacquer.

Steel Wool & Buff

Here is what the piece looked like when I mounted the chuck back on the lathe. I turned the lathe on and used some synthetic steel wool to remove any dust in the lacquer and buffed it with a soft cloth.

Turn The Back

I turned the piece around and mounted it on a vacuum chuck. So I could finish the bottom. I thinned out the bottom to match the top. Then I stained it, sealed it, etc.

Here is what the finished bottom looks like. The picture was taken at a slight angle so you can see some of the details.

I really wish I had remembered to take a lot more photos for my blog!

My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe verses my Old Powermatic 3520B

I decided to replace my old Powermatic 3520B Lathe with the new C Model.

Here is my unpacking and set up experience. Plus some comparison of the B and C models.

I purchased the new model C on 2/1/2018 for a little less than the $4400 list price.

I am a long time (10 years) Powermatic 3520B owner and a big fan. I purchased my model B on 4/1/2008 for $2700.

I am writing this blog entry because I was frustrated by the lack of real photos on the web before purchasing my Powermatic 3520C. There were some glamour shots put out by Powermatic. But, not much else.

Note: I also own 2 Oneway 2436 lathes, a VB36 lathe, a mini lathe and a metal lathe.

In a Nutshell

After a month or so of use, I think I am going to also be a long time big fan of the new Powermatic 3520C Lathe.

There are some things I don't like. Like it does not come with a power cord. It still has the offset Banjo that I can't live with. But, overall I am really happy.

It is really nice to see a company make a new model that is beefier than the old model rather than making things more flimsy to cut costs! For example, the base of new headstock is wider than the old one and it weighs more!

In my not so humble opinion the new model C is is at least as good as the old model B and probably a little better.

From now on I am going to abbreviate Powermatic as PM. Model C is PM 3520C. Model B is PM 3520B.

New PM 3520C Lathe Specs for Reference

Click on the photo at the right for new model C specs that I do not mention in this blog entry.

I downloaded this info from the PM web site.

Part 1: Unboxing and Set Up

Lathe on Pallet

The lathe comes nicely packaged on a Pallet. It fits in a small pickup no problem.

I had help loading it. I unloaded it on my own by unpacking the pallet while it was still on the truck.

I mostly set up the lathe on my own. I needed help turning the stand over after bolting on the legs. And I needed help lifting the Headstock up onto the bed.

Cast Iron is NOT Light Weight

The PM web info says the lathe weights 726 lbs and the label on the box agrees.

The label says the shipping pallet weight is 770 lbs.

I weighed each of the parts as I unpacked things. I used a modem electronic bathroom sale so all weights are approximate. Probably +/- 2 lbs.

Here is what I found for the new model C:

Headstock: 160 lbs
Tailstock: 53 lbs (the Old model B Tailstock is 46 lbs)

Banjo: 34 lbs
Tool Rest: 5 lbs
Box of Parts: 18 lbs

Main Leg: 70 lbs each
Leg Riser Block: 28 lbs each

Bed: I can't lift the Bed so here is my guess:
726-160-53-34-5-18-70-70-28-28 = 260 lbs

The above weights are with the cast iron triangle shaped duplicating bracket installed on the headstock and NOT installed on the tailstock. i.e. the way the lathe is shipped.

Note: Should I call it the lathe "bed" or "ways"? I decided to go with "bed". Same as PM spec sheet. The "ways" are just the top part of the "bed".

Shipping Carton Removed

The shipping carton was made to be easily removed. Just cut the straps and lift it up.

The photo shows what I found under the cardboard carton.

Lathe bed in the middle with legs in cartons on each side. The small carton that fell down is the all the nuts, bolts, and other small parts.

A Leg

Each leg is 22-1/4" tall and weights 70 lbs. (Leg height with out the silver feet that go on the bottom.)

Nicely packaged. Easy to remove. No shipping grease or oil BS that I need to deal with.

When I first saw a photo of the new model C, I did not like the new leg shape. Not as sexy?

I fell in love with the new shape when I built my own self to go under the lathe. The new leg shape makes shelves easier to enclose. No stupid big opening (hole) in the leg that collects dust and shavings. The new legs don't have a funny curve that gets in the way of things stacked on the shelf and thus gives you more room on the shelf. Stay tuned, for a new blog entry coming soon with my new weighted shelf design.

A Leg Riser Block

Each riser block is 4-1/4" tall and weights 28 lbs.

Thus the legs with riser blocks weight 70 + 28 = 98 lbs.

I have the riser blocks installed on my lathe with the silver feet screwed all the way in. From floor to bottom of riser is 5/8". Thus the silver feet on the bottom add 5/8" minimum. Note: I DO NOT have the nut installed between the top of the feet and bottom of leg. The nut would add another 3/8".

From floor to top of ways (bed) is 34-3/4". The distance from top of ways (bed) to center of spindle is 10-3/8". So the center of my spindle is 45-1/8" above the floor.

If no riser blocks it would be 45-1/8" minus 4-1/4" = 40-7/8" above the floor. This is very close to the 40-5/8" spec on PM web site.

The bed is 7-3/4" tall.

If you wanted to make the lathe taller you can crank out the feet a few inches. Or, I see no reason why you could not add more riser blocks. See "Installing The Riser Blocks" below.

The PM web says the riser block adds 6". This is about right if you crank out the feet, under a 4-1/4" riser block.

The old model B only had one leg option. No riser block. The lowest possible spindle height was 45" above the floor. I just measured it on my old PM 3520B.

Note: The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is the same on model B and C. 21″ center to center.

The Tool Rest

The lathe only comes with one tool rest. It is 14" long and weights 5 lbs. Same as model B.

Box of Parts

Nuts, bolts, feet, wrench, live center, etc.

Owners Manual

I really like the owners manual. PM ships 3 SEPERATE owners manuals. One in English. One in Spanish. And one in French?

I am stick to death of owners manuals with just a couple of pages of English text and then a ton of useless paper in other languages.

The Owners Manual has one very serious problem. It does not tell you how to hook up the power cord that you MUST supply on your own. More about that later.

Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock

This is how they ship the Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock.

They are just locked down to the bed via the silver handles. No extra, nuts, bolts or other BS you need to remove. It seems to work just fine.

I was also VERY delighted to find bare metal surfaces coated with just a light coat of machine oil. NOT that heavy crap you have to remove with kerosene. Like, the stuff you find on cheap tools shipped from China, etc.

The Headstock

Close up of the headstock

The Tailstock

Close up of the tailstock.

Back Side

The back side of Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock

Banjo and Tailstock Removed

Removing the banjo and tailstock was easy. Then the pallet was light enough that I could slide it out.

Removing Headstock

I slide the pallet back in a little and then removed the Headstock. I let it sit on end of tailgate while I got up my nerve.

It feels a like a lot more than 160 lbs at this point. It is not easy to grip, but not to bad.

Headstock on Dolly

I set the headstock down on to a dolly and rolled it into my studio.

This went ok. But, I decided there was no way I was going to be able to pick it up and install it on bed. I could pick it up. But, I could not pick it up and align the big washer on the bottom of headstock with the ways on my own. I was going to need help.

Ramp to Unload the Bed

The bed is to heavy for me to lift by myself. To awkward.

I think it is 260 lbs. Not really sure. See "Cast Iron is NOT Light Weight" above.

I got my 2×10 ramps. The ones I use to load and unload my snow blower, rototiller, etc.

Down the Ramp

I decided that removing the bed from the pallet was going to be awkward in the truck. So I just slide the pallet down my ramps. No problem

All Unloaded

Here are all the big parts after I unloaded everything.

Eventually I just rolled the bed off the pallet onto some rubber floor mats.

Note: The model B big useless metal Guard Assembly (that sort of looks like a metal spider web) no longer ships with the model C lathe. It is now an option. So, you no longer have to pay for this big waste of money.

Contents of the Parts Box

Here is what was in the parts box after I unwrapped things.

The new model C still comes with the very good "Jet" knockoff of the Oneway heavy duty dual ball bearing live center. The black thing above the big yellow wrench in the photo. The Oneway center is my absolute favorite. The Jet knockoff is a very close second. What's the difference? The threaded part on the Oneway is made of steel. On the Jet it is aluminum. The Jet only comes with the small aluminum cone.

Note: Jet and PM are owned by the same parent company.

The silve sliding hammer knock out bar with brass tip is best of breed. The model C one is the same as the model B.

The new model C lathe comes with the same cast iron face plate as the model B. They are identical. Ok, but not great. Not shown in this photo. See headstock photos above.

The Feet

I really like these feet.

Most feet these days are hard plastic with a steel stud sticking out of the top. These feet are mostly steel with just the hard plastic part on the bottom. They look real sturdy.

I removed the nuts you see on the feet before I installed them. This allowed me to crank the feet all the way in and get the lowest possible spindle height with the riser blocks. My floor to center of spindle height with riser blocks is 45-1/8". I wanted my new PM 3520C spindle height to be the same as my old PM 3520B spindle height of 45". Because, I have grown to like that height.

See "A Leg Riser Block" above for more measurement info.

Installing the Legs

Here you can see I rolled the bed off of the pallet onto a rubber mat.

The legs are easy to install with a Allen wrench. You just have to put in the 4 black socket head cap screws.

Installing the Riser Blocks

Here I show 2 options for the photo. I show one of the silver feet installed directly in the leg and one installed in the riser block.

The bottom of the legs are threaded to accept the feet. The bottom hole in the riser block is a threaded like hole in leg to accept feet. The top hole in the riser block is NOT threaded. You just install a bolt (socket head cap screw) thru unthreaded hole in riser block into the threaded foot hole in leg.

I really like the riser block design. It is simple and cost effect. I really don't understand whey more lathe manufactures don't go this way. The new Oneway adjustable legs are really expensive. Like twice the cost of the old non adjustable legs.

I see no reason why you could not add more riser blocks if you want to make the lathe taller. I would just make my own. Go to my local steel supplier and ask them to cut me some 3/16" wall thickness, 4" square hollow tub to length. Then drill some holes in them to line up with existing leg foot holes. My steel supplier has lots of scrap cut offs for cheap. You can get 4×4, or 2×4 or 4×6 square tub. 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness.

The adjustable legs on the Robust lathes, etc are nice. But, lets face it. You probably are only going to adjust them once or twice. Adding or removing a riser block is simple and cost effect. Robust and PM are the same when it comes to changing leg heights. You have to jack up the lathe.

If you want more leg height adjustment in finer intervals then you can just crank the feet on the bottom of the legs in or out.

See "A Leg Riser Block" above for more measurement info.

Note: The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is the same on model B and C. 21″ center to center.

Legs, Riser Blocks, and Feet Installed

Ready to go. But, I decided that thus sucker was to heavy for me to turn up on my own. I would also need help installing the Headstock. So, why take a chance?

Time to find some friends.

Note: In this photo and previous photo I still have the nuts installed between the feet and bottom of leg (riser block). Eventually, I removed those to take the spindle height down to 45-1/8". Like my old B model at 45".

All Set Up and Ready To Go

It's a thing of great beauty!

Well, not really ready to go. I can’t plug it in and give it a go because the PM people DID NOT ship it with a power cord and plug. Err……!!! See "Main Power On/Off Switch" below.

See "A Leg Riser Block" above for spindle height measurement, etc.

Old PM 3520B Lathe for Reference

Here is a photo of my old model B lathe for reference.

Part 2: The Details and PM 3520C verses 3520B

Powermatic 3520C Lathe verses Powermatic 3520B Lathe

New PM 3520C Headstock

Here is what the new headstock looks like.

It still has the same nice silver hand wheel.

Note: This photo was taken recently, after I installed my new shelf on top of the headstock. Ignore it for now. I will talk about it in a future blog append.

New and Old Headstocks Side by Side

I put 2 different photos together here in Photoshop. So things don't line up perfect. But, they are good enough.

The PM 3520C is on the left. The PM 3520B is on the right.

Basically they flipped the controls and belts from left to right.

They added a new spindle nose on the right of the model C (pointed to by red arrow) by removing the funny overhang on the left of the old model B (pointed to by blue arrow). I really like this. The new spindle nose makes it easier to turn things close to the headstock.

I also really like it because they did not change the distance between the in board and out board bearings. i.e. the distance between the green arrows on both headstocks is the same. Roughly 11.5". The bearings on model B and C appear to be the same great bearings.

Having a nice big bearing on the out board side, in addition to the in board side makes the spindle a lot more stable when you mount pieces on the lathe. It is what makes the PM lathes a lot better than the Jet, etc "look alikes". Often the "look alikes" use a smaller bearing on the out board side or no bearing at all!

The bearings on the PM lathes put them in the high end class, with Oneway, Robust, etc.

Note: In the photo, the "out board" side is on the left where the hand wheel mounts. The "in board" side is on the right.

The base of the new model C headstock is 10" wide. That is roughly 2" wider than the old headstock. This improves the stability of the headstock.

The model C is 15" tall. This is 1/4" taller than the old model B.

The distance from top of ways to center of spindle is the same 10-3/8" on model B and C.

New Control Box

Photo of the new movable control box for on/off, direction and speed in the DOCKED position. Pointed to by red arrow.

The new model C uses on/off buttons. I am having a little trouble getting use to this. However, I still think it is an improvement over the model B that used a single red mushroom button that you had pull out for on and push in for off. The push in for off was probably better. However, pulling the old model B button out was really hard. It took like a team of strong men to pull that button out. That, is why I replaced it on my old model B with a nice twist switch. Visible in the previous photo.

The magnet on the back of the control box is good. Not to strong and not to weak. The entire back of the box is covered with a nice thin layer of soft foam that appears to be fairly tough. No photo of back because I already have to many photos in this blog entry.

Undocked Control Box

This photo shows the new movable control box removed from the dock.

The red arrow points to the nice dock. It is recessed so the docked control box does not stick out..

Note: A moveable control box is a nice safety improvement. However, I still feel, that for safety reasons, all lathes should be equipped with a second emergency off switch that lives on the tailstock end of the lathe. It is ALWAYS there when you reach for it in an emergency. Regardless of where the other control box may have gotten to during daily use.

The Belts and Pulleys

This is often one of the first things I look at on lathes. To many people pay to much attention to just the HP of a lathe. They fail to look at the belts, bearings, etc. If you JUST put a big engine in a VW Bug car then you still have just a VW Bug. Because the suspension, tires, etc can't handle all of the HP of a big engine.

The new model C has the same great belts and pulleys as the model B.

The BIG belts and pulleys is another thing that puts the PM lathes in the same high end class as Oneway, Robust, etc.

The PM lathes have great motors with belts and pulleys that are really up to the job.

New Spindle Lock Knob

The new spindle lock knob is above the control box. Pointed to by red arrow.

It is big and easy to use. Just twist it to lock or unlock the spindle.

On both the model B and C, there is no micro switch attached to spindle lock that prevents you from turning on the lathe. I don't think this is a big problem. We all drive cars. You just got to known, when the light is red you don't pull out! You wait for the green. When the spindle is locked. Don't try to turn the lathe on!

Note: The old model B originally had a spindle lock that people did not like. Because you had to manually hold it in. I agree it was a pain. Eventually PM came out with a nice little fix. A sliding piece of metal that held it in. You can see it in the photo above of B and C headstocks side by side.

Spindle Lock Implementation

This photo shows how the spindle lock is implement. The red arrow points to the round washer where the spindle lock pin engages.

No change here. Basically the same on model B and C.

I like what I see. The spindle lock has nothing to do with the indexing mechanism. It is a big robust spindle lock. So when you screw things on and off of the spindle you don't put any stress on the indexing mechanism.

Index Pin

The red arrow in photo points the new model C index pin. The index is now implement like most other lathes. The index pin goes into holes in the pulley wheel. See next photo.

The index pin is held out by a spring. If you want to engage it you just push in. If you want it to stay engaged you have to thread the pin in.

Indexing on the old model B was a big mess. On the in board side, you had to screw a pin into holes you could not see. There was more than one hole for index pin … It was basically, totally useless. The new model C is a big improvement.

Note: Initially I had trouble getting the pin to thread into the hole. It just would not thread in there. Now, it seems to work. I am baffled. I think the threads in the cast iron headstock are not the best. This is the only manufacturing or shipping problem that I ran into with the new lathe.

Index Pin Implementation

The red arrow in photo shows the index pin coming thru the headstock. See previous photo.

The blue arrow points to the holes that the index pin engages.

There are 48 holes. For me, this is WAY MORE holes than I need!

I generally only need 12 or less holes. More holes JUST leads to more mistakes. Trying to use every 4th hole to get 12 divisions. Always gets me all screwed up. I really prefer to use an after market external indexing wheel. I can then easily mark every other hole with a red magic marker, every 4th hole with a blue magic marker, etc.

New Digital Index Feature

The model C comes with a new digital index feature. You activate it by pushing the "Index / Indice" button pointed to by blue arrow in photo.

When engaged the digital display (pointed to by red arrow in photo) shows the index number. 1 to 48. In photo it is showing index position 42. When you turn the spindle the index number changes.

I don't known of any other lathe that has this feature.

I am sure, some people are going to love it. It does not do much for me. If I could tell it, I want only 12 index positions and it took care of skipping to every 4th hole it would be of more interest to me.

Note: I tried several times, I just could not get a good photo here. In the real world the digital display that is hard to read in the photo is bright and easy to read.

Digital Index Implementation

The big silver disk and black box pointed to by red and blue arrows in this photo are all new on the model C.

I think they have something to do with the new digital index function. On the old model B there is just a small laser and sensor that senses the actual spindle speed of the square spindle lock washer.

Behind the blue arrow in photo there is a black plastic box with wires and a circuit board. I am happy to see it is protected from the pulleys by a steel plate.

On top of the steel plate there is a laser and sensor that uses the hole in the silver disk to sense the actual spindle speed.

The model B and C lathes sense and display the ACTUAL spindle speed. If you hand rotate the spindle with the motor off the digital display shows your hand rotation rpm. This is a lot better than cheap lathes that do not show the actual speed. They just show you were the variable speed knob (dial) is set.

New VFD Enclosure

Some people refer to the "Variable Frequency Drive" (VFD) as the "motor controller", etc

The VFD on the back of the model C headstock is now enclosed in a new fancy plastic box. My feelings about this are mixed. Will the VFD overheat when it does not get enough air flow? I am hoping PM knows what they are doing here.

The VFD on the back of the old model B headstock was not enclosed. This made securing the wiring a little more problematic and time consuming to manufacture?

New or foreign safety standards, etc may have led PM to add the enclosure. The PM web says "Fully enclosed VDF for increased user protection."

Note: A VFD allows you to get high torque out of a motor at low speeds by using a 3 Phase (rather than a Single Phase) motor. The VFD converts 220 volts Single Phase input power (standard household current) to 220 volt 3 Phase power for the motor. It varies the frequency of the 3 Phase power to control the motor speed.

The on/off, direction and speed, control box on the front of the lathe sends low voltage (typically 24 volts AC) control signals to the VFD on the back. So all high voltage wiring is limited to the back of the lathe. This is pretty much standard today on all high end lathes.

The VFD

Here is what the VFD looks like with the covers removed. I am an Electrical Engineer. So, you known, I just had to take that cover off.

VFD Model

Here is the VFD model number in photo. It looks like it is a E series VFD at www.deltaacdrives.com

The VFD is made by "Delta". I am not really sure, but I don't think this "Delta" company is the same as the old Delta Power Tools company. Or maybe it is spin off?

Delta VFDs are not as widely known as other brands because they do a lot of OEM stuff. However, they are known to be a good brand.

The VFD on my old PM 3520B was a Delta VFD. An older model. It works good. No problems!

Main Power On/Off Switch

The Knob under the VFD on a silver background is the Main Power On/Off Switch. It is unconventional. But it is a nice high quality switch.

The old model B did not come with a main power switch. The VFD was always powered on if the lathe was plugged in. This was a huge over site in my not so humble opinion. I added my own on/off switch to the back of my model B. Thus, I am really glade to see the new switch on the model C.

On the other hand the PM people really irked me. No, that is not strong enough. They really, really, really pissed me off by not shipping the lathe with a power cord. I could not plug the lathe in when I was ready to show it to my friends who helped me set it up! I had to wait a day, go to the store again to get a cord and plug, … I was pissed!

I payed $4xxx.00 for this lathe. They could not afford to ship it with a $10 power cord? Come on?

We have standards in the USA. The lathe power plate says 230 volts, 10 amps, 1 phase, 60 hertz. i.e. for USA sale only. The manual says it should plug into a 20 amp circuit. In the US the standard plug is a NEMA 6-20 for 250 volts, 20 amps with ground. The lathe should come with this cord and plug!

Yes, there are some industrial places were they might use other plugs, or direct wire, but those places are 3 phase, etc. They ship this lathe with a single phase VFD, and plate says 1 phase … thus there is no excuse for not shipping a NEMA 6-20 cord and plug! If someone does not like that plug then they can cut if off!

To top it all off. There is ABSOLUTELY no place in the PM Manual they shipped with the lathe that shows how to wire up that switch!!! And it is a non standard switch! The manual says you should hire an electrician!

They want me to hire an electrician, wait for him to show, pay him $100 or more, … Because, they did not want to ship a $4xxx.00 lathe with a $10 power cord? Err…..!!!

I added the blue cord you see in photo and my own standard NEMA 6-20 plug from Home Depot. Note: The plug is NOT shown in photo.

Lathe Plate

See photo for all the lathe plate information.

It correctly shows the lathe should be connected to a 1 phase, 220 volt power source.

Motor Plate

See photo for all the motor plate information.

I am glade to see here they are correctly showing the motor as a 3 phase motor. The VFD converts from 220 volts 1 phase to 220 volts 3 phase for the motor.

The motor on my old model B has been a great motor for 10 years. I think it is really a good old fashion 2 HP into a load. Rather than foreign crap where they falsely label motors as 2 HP when they can not deliver that under load.

The motor on my old model B is one of the lathes biggest selling points! It appears the motor on the new model C is the same motor. It looks the same and all the plate numbers, amps, HP, etc are the same.

However, it seems like the fan built into the new model C motor moves more air. This could be just my imagination. More air is a better thing. Better cooling. However, I have never had any problems with the model B over heating.

New and Old Tailstocks Side by Side

The PM 3520C is on the left. The PM 3520B is on the right.

The model C tailstock is a huge improvement over the model B because it has Acme threads in the Quill (the part that screws in and out). It took like forever to crank the old mode B tailstock in or out. The new model C is faster.

The PM web site says the model C has a "anti-rotation" key. Well, the old model B also has one. The new one on the model C looks like it might be better. But, I never had any complaints about the old model B one.

They both have the same great hand wheel. They both have the same good quill locking mechanism (the black handle on top).

The model C has a new very nice silver locking handle.

They both have the same hidden compartment with door that some people love. I absolutely hate it when people hide things in there!

The model C tailstock is 53 lbs. The model B is 46 lbs. I personally could do with out the extra weight. The old one was already on the to heavy side when I wanted to remove it. However, on the plus side, the new one is not some light weight piece of junk.

The new model C quill is marked in both inches and millimeters. Good type size nice and dark but still sharp. Easy to read.

The new model C is obviously wider than the model B at the bottom. The model C is 9" wide at bottom. The model B is 7". At the top, where the quill goes thru they are both the same 8-1/4" wide. Both models are the same height. 13.25" to the top of the hand wheel.

The new model C sticks out more on the left. I am really not thrilled with this because it means I can't get the Banjo as close to the tailstock as I would like. More about this latter.

However, it is nice to have a bigger tailstock base in contact with the bed. It makes the tailstock more stable.

Bottom of Tailstock

Here is what the bottom of the tailstock looks like. The model C and model B are very similar.

New and Old Banjos Side by Side

Oneway 2407 banjo on left. PM 3520C is in the center. PM 3520B is on the right.

The new model C banjo is roughly the same size and weight as the old model B. The model C has a nice new silver handle. The model C features a new tool rest clamp. More about that latter.

Both the model B and C have an offset tool rest post that I really DO NOT like! They are also to short.

Oneway Banjo

This photo shows why I do not like the PM banjos with a offset tool rest post.

I turn mostly bowls and hollow forms from green logs. In this photo I just finished facing off the end of a log so I can mount a face plate.

With my Oneway banjo in there I have to crank out the quill on the tailstock roughly 2". Blue arrow in photo. This is reasonable and safe.

If I had the PM banjo in there (see previous photo) then I would need to crank out the quill another 2" to get the offset tool rest post in the same space. That would extend the quill to roughly 4". Way to close to the max quill extension of 4-1/2". At 4" the quill is not secure enough for strength and safety because it is extended to far. When the quill gets to the end of the threads a 4-3/4" it just slides out. If I have to do this once and a while then ok. But, every day, no way!

In my not some humble opinion the Oneway banjo is still best of breed. Still way better than the model B or C PM banjo because it is not offset.

New Tool Rest Clamp for Photo

The top of the new model C banjo features a new tool rest shaft clamp. It is huge improvement over the old model C. It holds the tool rest post, rock solid, even under heavy loads.

This photo shows the new design slid out so you can see what it looks like. The next photo shows it installed.

New Tool Rest Clamp Installed

The red arrow points to the jaws that actually clamp down on the tool rest post. It looks almost the same as a Oneway banjo when you look down the tool post hole.

The new PM design is as good as the Oneway tool rest clamp and probably a lot cheaper to manufacture.

Note: The old model B design really sucked! It was just a knob with a screw that screwed in or out. See photo above. It was like the one you find on most cheap lathes. It allowed the tool rest to move around or drop down while you were trying to turn. Extremely frustrating when you have to stop the lathe to fix the tool rest position.

Bottom of Banjo

The bottom of new model C banjo looks the same as the old model B. Same good design on the bottom.

I really like the big black ROUND black washer (red arrow in photo) on the bottom of the PM model B and C headstock, tailstock and banjo. It is way better than the square washers used by most (all other?) lathe manufacturers.

Round washers DO NOT have any sharp corners that hang up when you slide things around on the lathe bed (ways). The PM round washer is big and beefy!

The square washers use by other lathe manufactures have sharp corners that hang up and prevent you from easily sliding the banjo around. I really hate how the square washer banjos start to stick after they have been used for a while. This seems to be aggravated by using washers that are NOT big and beefy. Over time they bend and distort? Eventually, you have to remove the square washer from the bottom and file off all the sharp edges. Then it still is not as good as the big beefy PM round washer.

Banjo To Low

The banjo on the new model C is still way to low. Just like it was on the model B. This has not been fixed.

The banjos on PM lathes are roughly 1-1/2" lower than the banjos on all other lathes by all other manufactures. See red arrow in photo. PM tools rests are extra tall to compensate for this.

This is NOT a great feature. It means that if you purchase an after market tool rest from any other manufacture it will NOT work on a PM lathe. The tool rest post will be to short because the PM banjo is to low!

It is often necessary to purchase after market tool rests for shapes and lengths not offered by PM. Purchasing special rests with longer shafts, cost extra and limits your options.

New Model C Bed and Leg Holes

See next photo for old model B bed and leg holes.

Like I already said. After getting use to it. I like the shape of the new model C leg. It works better when you make your own shelf under the lathe.

However, some users may not be happy with the new screw hold pattern. The red arrows in this photo and next photo points to holes that are in the same location on model B and C lathes. They are 4" apart and 2-3/4" down from top of bed.

The blue arrows point to new holes on the model C. They do not exist on the model B. The model B only had one hole in the middle. See green arrow in next photo.

I think this means you CAN NOT mount the old model B bed extension #6294727B on a new model C lathe. Well, maybe you still can, but you can't use all 3 holes, just the top 2. Or you are going to have to drill your own center hole

You can get a new model C bed extension. PM # 1353002.

I think the old model B Tail Stock Swing Away #6294721 accessory will work on a model C. Because it only uses the top holes. The PM model C manual seems to imply that.

I don't want to be negative here! Lots of people have Tail Stock Swing Away. I do not known of any one who has a bed extension on a model B. You don't really need one because you can just slide the headstock down to where you need it for outboard turning. So the new model B hole pattern is probably not a big deal.

Note: The distance between the ways is the same on model B and C. 2-1/2" inches. The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is also the same on model B and C. 21″ center to center. The feet are NOT shown in these photos.

Old Model B Bed and Leg Holes

See discussion under previous photo.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2018/03/my_pm_3520c_verses_3520b/feed/ 9 http://carlford.info/blog/2018/02/calendar/ Tue, 27 Feb 2018 00:18:05 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=670 I added a new Calendar page to my www.carlford.us web site.

It lists some new classes that I will be teaching at the Brookfield Craft Center and Peters Valley School of Craft in the next few months.

Click here to check it out.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2018/01/studio_class_winter_2018/ http://carlford.info/blog/2018/01/studio_class_winter_2018/#comments Thu, 18 Jan 2018 23:38:50 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=623 Continue reading Last Minute Opening in My Studio Class (Winter 2018) →]]>
Updated 1/20/2018: I filled the opening. There was only 1 opening. So anyone else who contacts me will go on a waiting list for the fall.

I had a student cancel at the last minute due to medical reasons. Thus I am now looking for 1 more student for my “Woodturning Workshop” class in my Studio in Poughkeepsie NY.

Please contact me ASAP if you are interested. Email [email protected]

---

The Details

Instructor: Carl Ford – Studio Woodturner – www.carlford.us

Level: All Skill Levels (Novice and Beyond)

Dates: Any 10 out of 12 Thursdays between January 25 to April 12th, 2018 (Jan 25, Feb 1, 8, 15, 22, Mar 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Apr 5, 12, 2018)

Time: 9am – 3:30pm with a 1/2 hour break for lunch

Tuition $650.00 ($650 / 10 days = $65 per day / 6 hrs per day = $11 per hour, A really good deal! )

Location: At Carl Ford’s Studio in Poughkeepsie NY.  3 Danspence Road, Poughkeepsie, NY 12603

Same class format as “Woodturning Workshop” at Brookfield Craft Center. Click here for BCC class description.

Students must supply there own wood for the class or help me scrounge it up. Same deal as Brookfield Craft Center.

I made a video to help promote my Woodturning Workshop class at the Brookfield Craft Center. The same info applies to the class in my studio. Click her for my “Woodturning Workshop” video.

I have liability insurance for my studio classes thru the American Association of Woodturners (AAW).

---

My Studio

My studio is better than the shop at Brookfield Craft Center. I have better lathes! Great lighting and dust collection. Etc.

• My studio is a bright and cheery environment!
• Two Oneway 2436 lathes and a Powermatic 3520B lathe for students.
• Complete set of turning tools for each student! Ellsworth, Stirt, Jordan, and Hosaluk gouges, etc.
• Munro, Ellsworth and Jamieson hollowing systems. All with laser pointers and a Trent Bosch Stabilizer.
• Great lighting
• Good natural light via a bank of windows
• Good overhead lights
• Good lights on each and every lathe
• Good heat and AC
• Very good and QUIET dust collection on each and every lathe! My cyclone dust collector is outside!
• Lots of finishing options. Alcohol method for green bowls. Milk paint, acrylic paint, colored stains, danish oil, poly, lacquer, etc.
• Good lunch room with full kitchen. We eat on the deck or in a nice sunny dinning room.
• Modern bathroom with indoor plumbing.

Click here for directions to my studio at 3 Danspence Road, Poughkeepse NY, 12603

Google says my studio is:

• 1 hr 10 min drive north of Purchase NY
• 1 hr north east drive of Danbury CT
• 45 min south drive of Kingston NY

A picture is worth a thousand words. Click here for pictures of my studio.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2018/01/studio_class_winter_2018/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2017/11/bcc-workshop-class-winter-2018/ Wed, 29 Nov 2017 15:01:46 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=617 Continue reading BCC Workshop Class Winter 2018 →]]> I am still looking for a few good students for my “Woodturning Workshop” class at the Brookfield Craft Center (BCC). It starts on January 23rd, 2018.

I made a video to help promote the class. The video is 13 minutes long (11 minutes of talk + 2 minutes of slide show). Here is the video:

---

The Details

Instructor: Carl Ford – Studio Woodturner – www.carlford.us

Level: All Skill Levels (Novice, Intermediate or Expert)

Dates: Any 10 out of 12 Tuesdays between January 23 to April 10th, 2018 (Jan 23, 30, Feb 6, 13, 20, 27, Mar 6, 13, 20, 27, Apr 3, 10, 2018)

Time: 9am – 3:30pm

Tuition $700.00 ($700 / 10 days = $70 per day / 6 hrs per day = $12 per hour, A really good deal! )

Location: At The Brookfield Craft Center in Brookfield CT (10 minutes north of Danbury CT)

Sign Up At: www.brookfieldcraft.org

---

Woodturning Studio Tour 2017

I also made a video that shows people what the Woodturning Studio at the Brookfield Craft Center looks like and has to offer.

The video is 6.5 minutes long. The video is here:

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/11/bcc-woodturning-studio-tour-2017/ Wed, 29 Nov 2017 14:30:52 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=614 I made a video to help promote my classes at the Brookfield Craft Center. It allows people to see what the Turning Studio at the Brookfield Craft Center looks like and has to offer.

The video is 6.5 minutes long. Here is the video:

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/11/munro-carbide-cutter/ http://carlford.info/blog/2017/11/munro-carbide-cutter/#comments Wed, 08 Nov 2017 16:00:18 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=594 Continue reading Munro Carbide Cutter →]]> This is the 1st of 3 blog entries I am going to release on Carbide Cutters.

$12 Carbide Cutter for Munro Hollower II

A replacement Carbide Cutter for the Munro Hollower II is $20+ from numerous commercial retailers.

The "12mm Round Shear Insert Fits 4 Tool RD12S" from Az Carbide is the same product for only $12.

I have several of them from Az Carbide and they work fine!

The Az Carbide web site says it is for #4 Hunter Tool. It does not mention Munro Hollower II. This is bad marketing. The Munro Hollower II and #4 Hunter Tool use the same cutter.

Note: This cutter will NOT fit the new Munro Wundercutt10 Hollower. It uses a 10mm cutter. The "10mm Round Carbide Shear Insert RD10S Fits 3 & 5 Tool" from Az Carbide may work. I DO NOT KNOWN! I have not tried it.

Az Carbide Shopping Cart

You can purchase things from Az Carbide's eBay store or directly from www.azcarbide.com.

Prices are little cheaper and shipping is flat rate $3 at www.azcarbide.com.

Note: Az Carbide is just one of several vendors who are selling carbide cutters on eBay.

Munro Hollower II

The "12mm Round Shear Insert Fits 4 Tool RD12S" from Az Carbide fits the Munro Hollower II. The one in the photo on the right.

Get a Carbide Cutter

One of the tips in my "Munro Hollower Demo" write up is:

"Get a Carbide Cutter for your Munro Hollower!

At $24 the carbide cutter for the Munro Hollower2 is not cheap. But it is a great investment because it will really speed up the learning process.

The HSS cutters that come standard with the Munro Hollowers suck because you have to stop often to rotate the cutter to a new sharp area or sharpen the cutter. Sharpening the cutter is extremely frustrating!

Each time you stop to dork with the cutter and then go back to work. It is like you have a completely new tool that you have to learn to use all over again from scratch!

…"

See http://www.carlford.info/pages/demos_classes/munro_hollower/Munro_Hollower.pdf

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/11/munro-carbide-cutter/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/drill-press-vise/ http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/drill-press-vise/#comments Mon, 30 Oct 2017 16:43:52 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=591 Continue reading Drill Press Vise →]]>

Groz UG100-3 Drill Press Vise

Long ago I got this drill press vise that I really like. It is a Groz UGL100-3 made in India.

My friends and students also really like this vise when they use it. They want to get one. But, until recently I had to tell them they were out of luck. I could not find anyone still selling it.

That changed recently when I found a very similar one on Zoro (www.zoro.com) made by Dayton #4CPG1.

I used this vise mostly for drilling metal things. But, I also use it for plastic pipe (often) and wooden things (not very often).

Why I Really Like It

I really like this drill press vise, because it is:

1. The right size and weight.

2. It has both horizontal and vertical V slots that allow me to securely hold round stock while drilling.

3. It has a ledge at the top of the jaws that allow me to securely hold bar stock up at the top of jaws where I can see it while I drill it.

4. There is a lot of space between the "ways" on the vise. Thus I can drill all the way thru things with out hitting the ways. Note: If I don't want something to drop thru the ways then I add a crap piece of wood across the ways.

What I Did Not Like and How I Fixed It

The only thing I did not like about this vise is the handle is hard to tighten up really tignt because it does not have a cross bar (tommy bar).

The vise comes with just a small hole in the handle. See photos below of new vise at Zoro.

I solved my problem by drilling out the hole so it was large enough to take the "Red Bar" that comes with Oneway Chucks and Faceplates.

Now I really like the vise handle. For most things, just hand tight is good enough. I don't need the red bar. When I need it really tight, I get the red bar.

Note: No cross bar (tommy bar) on the vise handle means you can easily position it anywhere on the drill press table with out having to dork around with the cross bar.

Horizontal V Slot In Use

Here is an example of the horizontal V slot in use.

Vertical V Slot In Use

Here is an example of the vertical V slot in use.

I rarely use the vise for this. Because, I do most of this thing kind of drilling in my metal or wood lathe. But, when I need it. It is there.

Note: You can't really see the middle vertical V slot that is being used in this photo. It is to the left of the aluminum blank being drilled out. The drill press vise has 3 vertical V slots. A left one, middle one, and a right one. Only the left one is visable in the photo. Take a look at the other photos above to see all 3 slots.

Ledge In Use

Here is an example of the ledge at the top of jaws in use.

Notice how you can drill a hole all the way thru something near the end. The work is still well supported in the middle of the vise. It does not drop thru the "ways" of the vise.

Plywood Table

This is the same photo as above. Notice how I secure this drill press vise to my drill press table with just 1 big screw into a plywood table that fits over the cast iron table on my drill press.

I REALLY like this set up. Because, I can quickly install or remove the vise by just lifting up the plywood table.

I can also just take the whole table over to the trash can and empty any shavings into the can.

For most things 1 screw is secure enough and allows me to easily position the vice. I add a 2nd screw once in a blue moon when needed.

Bottom of Plywood Table

Its not pretty. But it work goods.

The boards that I attached to the bottom of the plywood hold the vise securely in place via its own weight. The boards prevent the vise and plywood from twisting out of my hand if a drill "catches". I don't need to waste time bolting the vise down each time I use it.

Note: There is no little board in the back right hand corner. It split on me and broke off. Maybe some day, I will replace it. But, I doubt it.

Cast Iron Drill Press Table

Here is what my raw drill press table looks like.

Thus the boards on the bottom of the plywood table just fit over the square table.

If I had a round table, I would do the same thing. I would leave a board sticking down where the table connects to the main drill press post. This would stop plywood rotation on the round table.

Dayton 4CPG1 Drill Press Vice at Zoro

Dayton 4CPG1 horizontal and vertical dril press vice.

This one is very similar (the same?) as the Groz UG100-3 drill press vice I have.

It is avaialble from Zoro (www.zoro.com) as Zoro #G1791151. $96 on 10/29/2017.

Dayton 31LZ65 Drill Press Vice at Zoro

Dayton 31LZ65 horizontal only drill press vice.

If I had it to do again, I might get this one. It is very similar to Dayton 4CPG1 horizontal and vertical drill press vice. But, it is a little less money and I never use my vice in vertical mode.

It is avaialble from Zoro (www.zoro.com) as Zoro #G9193581. $82 on 10/29/2017.

Note: Dayton also makes a smaller (3") and a larger (4-3/4") version of the same vise. They look ok.

Dayton also makes a similar looking 31LZ68 vise. It is green. I don't like the looks of that one. It only has one set of vertical V slots. The horizontal V slot looks to high to me. It also does not have a ledge at the top of the jaws.

Close Up of Dayton 4CPG1 Drill Press Vise

Horizontal and vertical dril press vise.

Very similar to (the same as?) Groz VG100-3.

Very similar to Dayton 31LZ65 vertical only drill press vise.

Dayton 4CPG1, Zoro G1791151

Jaw Width 4", Jaw Opening 3-1/2", Throat Depth 1-3/16", Height 2.37", Length 10.86", Made In India

Close Up of Dayton 31LZ65 Drill Press Vise

Horizontal only drill press vise. Very similar to Dayton 31LZ65.

Dayton 31LZ65, Zoro G9193581

Jaw Width 4", Jaw Opening 4", Throat Depth 1-1/4", Height 2.5", Length 11", Made in India

Note: Dayton also makes a smaller (3") and a larger (4-3/4") version of the same vise. They look ok.

Dayton also makes a similar looking 31LZ68 vise. It is green. I don't like the looks of that one. It only has one set of vertical V slots. The horizontal V slot looks to high to me. It also does not have a ledge at the top of the jaws. ]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/drill-press-vise/feed/ 3 http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/hang-up-your-power-sanding-drills/ http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/hang-up-your-power-sanding-drills/#comments Sat, 28 Oct 2017 22:45:08 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=519 Continue reading Hang Up your Power Sanding Drills →]]>

I like to keep my Power Sanding Drills handy by hanging them on the front of my lathe.

My friends and students have copied this idea.  Thus it must be a good one?

Here is how I do it.  I turn a simple knob out of scrap wood and mount it on the front of my lathe.  I drill and tap a hole for a 1/4″ bolt. See photo.

It looks like I goofed. Both sanders in the photo appear to have a 2" mandrel on them. Normally I keep a 2" mandrel on one of them and a 3" mandrel on the other.

Then I carefully drill a hole in the case of my drill and run a piece of flexible electrical wire thru the hole. I drill the hole in a corner where they is really nothing inside of the case.  In the photo you can see some scrap number 18 gray wire with a green stripe.  One half of a chuck of brown lamp cord (zip cord) would work just as good.  Stranded wire is more flexible than solid wire.

Note: I like to use a 55 Degree Close Quarters Drill for power sanding. I get my drills from the Sanding Glove (www.thesandingglove.com) because they test their drills before selling them and they have metal gears. All of the ones on Amazon, etc get lousy reviews due to plastic gears or bearings that don’t last long!

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/10/hang-up-your-power-sanding-drills/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2017/01/power-carving-textures/ http://carlford.info/blog/2017/01/power-carving-textures/#comments Sun, 08 Jan 2017 17:20:00 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=530 Continue reading Power Carving Textures →]]>

Here is some information I put together for a Power Carving Textures demo that I am doing at my local woodturning club.

I learned most of the stuff presented here in various wood turning symposiums and classes. Mostly from Al Stirt.

Hand Carving

First, lets get this out of the way. Hand carving on turnings often does NOT work good because they are round. When hand carving you have to pay attention to and follow the grain. On round turnings the grain often changes directions and thus is hard to follow. Carving across the grain requires a lot of effort and force that is hard to control.

Hand carving textures is to time consuming and tedious. Power carving works a lot better for textures.

Note: I own a set of good Swiss made Pfeil hand carving tools. If I was purchasing a set today, I would probably go with FlexCut tools. Something like the "FlexCut 21 Piece Starter Set" shown in photo. For around $150 on 1/5/2017. I really like the FlexCut tools. Good tools at a good price. They were not available when I purchased my Pfeil tools a long time ago.

 

Reciprocating Power Carving

Like I said above, hand carving does not work well. Thus I use a power reciprocating carver when I want nice straight or curved lines with nice clean edges. The reciprocating action (quick small back and forth movements like a hammer drill) of a power tool is used to drive a little chisel similar to a hand tool chisel. Controlling a reciprocating tool (starting and stopping the cut) is often easy. They cut across grain a lot easier than a hand tool and create less tear out.

I often use a power reciprocating carver with a V-tool to cave lines that define the boundaries of an area that I then fill with a rotary carved texture. The photo shows an Al Stirt style piece I did after taking a class with Al. The curved lines where carved with a FlexCut V-tool in my Ryobi DC500 Detail Carver. The dots were created with a round ball burr in my Dremel tool.

Reciprocating Power Carving Tools:

FlexCut "Detail Set" Power Gouges – Around $30 on 1/7/2017. Everyone pretty much agrees that the gouges that come with power cavers (Ryobi, Proxxon, etc) are junk. You should replace them with a set of FlexCut gouges designed to fit in a power carver.

FlexCut makes a "Detail Set" and a "Roughing Set". I rarely use anything other than the V-tool in the "Detail Set". Thus you probably do not need the "Roughing Set".

The FlexCut "Power Gouges" fit directly in Ryobi, Proxxon and Mastercarver handpiece. You may need an adapter for Automach, Wecheer, etc. See FlexCut web site.

You should also get a FlexCut RG102 handle so you can use the gouges like a hand tool.

Ryobi DC500 Detail Carver – Hands down the best option. It just takes a little bit of forward pressure to start cutting and it does not overheat. Well, like any other tool, it will overheat after a couple of hours of continuous use.

DISCONTINUED! They stopped making the Ryobi quite a while ago. I have one and I love it. I just purchased 2 more of them on eBay for around $50 each plus shipping.

No one really knows why they discontinued the Ryobi DC500. The only good tool Ryobi ever made? They use to be common on eBay at often outrageous prices given they sold for around $20 when discontinued. They still come up on eBay once and while due to estate sales.

Amazon is now selling a "Ryobi DC-501 Electric Carving Knife". $82 on 1/7/2017. I don’t known what to say about these. They get very mixed reviews. "Great power carver". "Quit working after 30 minutes", etc. Cheap Chinese knock off? But Ryobi is cheap …

Proxxon Power Carver – I see there are now MSG and MOS models of the Proxxon Power Carver. Around $160 on 1/7/2017. The older models were known for overheating and thus not very poplar. The new models are ok?

I don’t know if the MSG or MOS model is better. I think one is a little bigger than the other. I would probably get the smaller one to carve textures on my turnings. Smaller is easier to maneuver? The larger one is better for carving big things like duck decoys? The Proxxon is probably your best choice if you can not find a Ryobi DC500 on eBay.

Automach Power Carver – The $310 price turns most people off. It has a reputation for overheating but it is not clear what people are using it for when it overheats. It may be a good tool for big stuff. Duck decoys, etc Not worth the price for wood turners?

Reciprocating Hand Piece – If you already have a Flex Shaft tool (Mastercarver, Foredom, etc) then you can get a Reciprocating Hand Piece that fits on the flex shaft. Just snap it on to the end of the shaft. The hand piece converts from rotary flex shaft to reciprocating. The Mastercarver, Foredom and WeCheer brands of reciprocating hand pieces all seem to be about the same. But, I don’t really known.

I have a Mastercarver one that I don’t use much. It works ok. I just find that dragging around the flex shaft gets in the way. Hard to maneuver. I prefer my Ryobi.

 

Rotary Power Carving

I use a Rotary power caring tool to create most of my textures. I like to use a Dremel with mostly a square cylinder burr or round burr. (Note: Burr = cutter or bit, etc.)

Power carving with a rotary burr is fast. You can carve with the grain or across the grain. No problem. The only problem is the rotary burrs often create a lot of tear out. Splinters that stick up where the burr exited the wood. I clean these up with 3M Radial Bristle Discs. I also use the bristle discs to soften the hard edges crated by rotary burrs.

The photo shows an Al Stirt style piece I did after taking a class with Al. The lines where created using a Square Cylinder burr in my Dremel tool. The dots were created using a ball burr. The craters were created using the end of a Kutzall cylinder plunged into the wood like a router bit. The craters are a good example of how you have to play around with all the burrs you have. Try them at different angles, etc.

Power Carving Burrs

Wood Magazine has a good Power Carving Bits summary here.

I mostly use Square Cylinder, Round, and a Inverted Taper Cone shapes.

Note: The Inverted Taper Cone shape I use is not shown in diagram. Take the Cone Taper and Invert it. This shape is often not part of sets and hard to find. The very common Square Cylinder is almost as good.

Caving burrs come in tons of different shapes and sizes. For carving textures I generally like burrs that are roughly 1/4" in diameter, 1/2" tall when applicable, with a 1/8" shank for Dremel. I don’t care if they are steel or carbide. I have mixed feelings about single cut or double cut. I often favor single cut over double. I like my cutters to cut fast. Some times the double cut are to slow. However, double cut is easier to control and creates less tear out.

Dremel has a "115 High Speed Cuter" (square cylinder single cut burr) that I DO NOT like because the flutes are to far apart. To course. It makes to much of a mess and is hard to control. Unfortunately, it is commonly available at Home Depot, etc. Avoid it.

Other square cylinder single cut burrs with the flutes closer together (the way most manufacturers make them) are ok.

Rotary Power Carving Tools:

ZJchao 10 Pieces Tungsten Carbide Rotary Burr Set 1/8" Shank – Around $15 on 1/7/2017 on Amazon.

Updated 1/25/2017: BEWARE! I just got feedback from a good friend who purchased this set from Amazon. He was not expecting the best quality, but the set he received was terrible! Most of the bits do not run true. They oscillate and vibrate. I should reconsider recommending them. I agree. I should reconsider. But, I don’t known what to do. The set I received runs ok.

Updated 2/3/2017: I now own 3 sets of these cutters. All purchased from Amazon. My first set was all ok. The 2nd and 3rd sets have 2-3 burrs in each set that oscillate way to much! Thus I can no longer recommend these burrs! If you want a good set from a trusted retailer, then I suggest you purchase "10-Piece Carbide Burr Set 1/8" Shank 1/4" Head" item # 627001 from www.woodcarverssupply.com. Around $57 on 2/3/2017. However, given the price difference. I personally would, probably just purchase the cheap set and take my chances. The bad burrs in my 2rd and 3rd sets are ones that I don’t care about. Ones, that I personally will never use.

Their are lots of sets on Amazon. I chose the set show in the photo because it includes the hard to find Inverted Taper Cone shape I like. It is at the end on the left in photo. See discussion in previous section. I purchased this set from Amazon to confirm it really is what I like.

This set is a double cut set. Normally, I would prefer a single cut set, because they cut faster. However this set works good. It cuts fast enough to satisfy me. The cut is also pretty clean. Not a lot of tear out.

CMT Orange Bit and Blade Cleanser – I use this to clean my burrs. The orange formula is biodegradable ….

I put this stuff in an old pill bottle and soak my burrs in there when not in use. When I want to use one, I take it out and clean it with a small cheap BRASS wire brush from local hardware store.

Brass is soft so it does little damage to the sharp edges of burrs. It is one of these things were you are dammed if you do and dammed if you don’t. If you don’t get the crud off the burr it will not cut. If you clean it with a brass brush then you may dull it a little.

 

3M Radial Bristle Discs – I use these to clean up any tear out splinters left sticking up after power carving.

Mcmaster-Carr is the cheapest source for 3" diameter disks. However, Mcmaster does not tell you they are 3M brand on their web site. Trust me they are.

I use only the 120 grit 3" disks. 120 grit is white color disks. www.mcmaster.com 6 of # 4494A55 (disks) and 1 of # 4568A22 (arbor) around $23 total on 1/7/2017. Note: This is not the $22 3M arbor. I use a generic $4 arbor. Just cut the end off the arbor with a hack saw if it sticks out to much for your tastes.

The disks are only 1/16" thick with a 3/8" hole in center. I stack 6 of the disks on the arbor to create a nice 3/8" wide brush. Like the white one in the photo.

Beware! Rio Grande Jewelry Supply, etc sell small 3/4" disks that you can mount in a Dremel tool. The bigger 3" size disks are to big for a Dremel tool. To much mass. Drive them with a hand drill, a flex shaft tool or your variable speed lathe.

Updated 11/9/2019: I have found that the “Sanding Wheel Brushes” from McMaster-Carr are a good alternative to the “3M Radial Bristle Discs”. They are cheaper and last longer because they are tougher. See my “Sanding Wheel Brushes” blog entry.

Dremel Tool – I have an old Dremel 380 tool that I have been using for a long time. It was a fancy kit with variable speed, etc. I have done a lot of power carving with this tool. It is my favorite. Easy to maneuver. Plenty of power. It does not get hot. I almost always use it at full speed (one speed).

I recently picked up a new Dremel 200 at Home Depot for $30. On sale for Christmas 2016. Something for my students to use. I have been using it and I like it. This is one that I am now recommending. It is 2 speed (high and low). That is one more speed than I am ever going to need to power carve textures. I only use high speed. Around $50 on 1/17/2017.

I only use one speed so I may be able to make due with a Dremel 100 for $30 on 1/17/2017. I don’t have one of these. Thus I don’t know if they are junk.

I never use all the junk (I mean stuff) that comes in the kits. Thus I would just purchase the bare bones tool if available.

Tip: Attach a 12" long chunk of cheap 1/4" gold chain from local hardware store to center hole in your Dremel wrench to keep it from getting lost.

1/2 HP Mastercarver Bench-Top Basic Set (aka Foredom Flex Shaft Tool) – I like the 1/2 HP Mastercaver Flex Shaft Tool better than the 1/3 HP (or less) Foredom tools.

I have the hanging version. If I had to do again I would get the bench version. It now comes with the variable speed controller you need if you want to use 3M Radial Bristle Discs. You can hang up the bench model at any time with a piece of scrap wire.

I like this "Basic Set" because it comes with the small drill chuck hand piece (see photo). I have lots of hand pieces. I like the drill chuck one best. You can mount the 1/4 shaft of mandrels for 3M Radial Bristle Discs in this drill chuck. You can also mount any 1/8" shaft (or any other shaft size) style carving burr in this chuck. Some people don’t like this hand piece. They like smaller diameter hand pieces. I like the diameter of the drill chuck handpiece. It feels great in my hands. You can get additional hand pieces or purchase the "Ultra Set".

Mastercarver tools are only available from Wood Carvers Supply Inc.

Most Foredom and Wecheer hand pieces will fit on the Mastercarver shaft.

Also purchase a "Mastercarver Spare Inner Shaft", Item #797020. $11 on 1/7/2017. If you have one of these then you will never break the shaft on your tool and you will never need it. If you don’t have a spare then trouble is just around the bend.

Tip: Attach a 12" long chunk of cheap 1/4" gold chain from local hardware store to the drill chuck key to keep it from getting lost. Attach your Dremel chuck key to the other end.

Note: I don’t known if I really trust the HP ratings here. Over the years HP has become an almost worthless indicator of performance. Are they ratting the HP under load or no load? Etc, etc. So if a saw a good deal on a Foredom 1/3 HP tool I would go for it rather than pay a high price for 1/2 HP Mastercarver.

Beware: Foredom has a confusing mess of tool options and kits (1/3 HP, 1/4 HP, 1/6HP, etc) aimed at different industries (Jewelry, Woodworking, etc).

Enkay 115-C Flex Shaft with 1/4 Chuck – If you don’t want to spend a lot of money one of these will do the job. Around $26 on 1/7/2017 from Amazon. Drive it with a power drill or your variable speed lathe.

Running your lathe at really high speed 2000+ RPM is a bit unnerving. But is ok for short periods. It works reasonably good with 3M Radial Bristle Discs. But, is a little to slow for good power carving. So one of these plus a $30 Dremel for Power Carving can get the job done.

Note: A "Guinevere Flexibleshaft With Chuck" is very similar. But it is $80 on 1/7/2017. Made by King Author Tools available from Amazon.

You can mount it in the lathe headsock with a Jacobs Chuck (not a good option), a commercial Collet Chuck with a 1/4" collet or home made Collect Chuck like the one in the photo. Make a collet out of UHMW or hardwood with a 1/4" hole the fits in your 4 Jaw lathe chuck.

Any Micromotor Tool – The micromotor tools work great with small power carving burrs. You will QUICKLY burn them out if you try to use them to carve textures with the 1/4" diameter burrs shown above.

Use a Dremel or Flex Shaft tool rather than Micromotor tool.

 

Carving Suppliers

Here are the woodcarving suppliers that I use.

Wood Carvers Supply, Inc – An old well known company. They pretty much have everything. "Mastercarver" band tools are made by Wood Carvers Supply. I don’t like their current web site. Their print catalog is a lot better. I tend to get things from Wood Carvers Supply because I like their Mastercarver Flex Shaft tool better than less powerful Foredom tools.

Treeline USA – Wood Carving Tools – They have most things. A good web site and a very nice print catalog. No "Mastercarver" brand tools.

MDI Woodcarvers Supply – Another company that pretty much has everything other than "Mastercarver" band tools. Another web site that I don’t care for and their print catalog is a lot better.

Rio Grande Jewelry Supply – They have some carving stuff. When they have something you want like a Foredom tool or carving burrs it is often the lowest price available. They have a very good web site and print catalog.

Note: I find the above suppliers usually have better prices than Woodcraft. You can also get things on Amazon. There are good and bad deals on Amazon.

Pattern Layout Tools

Here are some of the tools I use to layout patterns and textures.

Polar Graph Paper – I use polar graph paper to layout equal distant divisions (lines) on a round bowl or plate. The Al Stirt way.

I generate my own Polar Graph Paper using an on line tool at https://incompetech.com/graphpaper/polar/

For 48 divisions, I use: PDF Document Size = 8.5 x 11, Minimum Border = .25 inches, Line Weight Wide = 2 points, Narrow = .75 points, Concentric Circles = 8, Primary Spokes = 12, Primary Labels = degrees, Secondary Spokes = 48, Center Style = Normal, Line Color = Black.

For 36 divisions change above to: Secondary Spokes = 36.

For 5 divisions change above to: Spokes = 5, Secondary Spokes = 20.

The number of "Secondary Spokes" should always be a multiple of the number of "Spokes" for best results.

I have found that generating anything other than 8.5" x 11" and then printing it on multiple sheets and gluing it back together is to much trouble. I just print 8.5" x 11" and then glue it on to the center of 1/4" x 15" x 15" plywood. Extend the lines by hand using a ruler and pencil.

Note: If you want to download a program then try "Graph Paper Maker" by www.blackcatsystems.com. It is virtually the same as the above on line program.

Updated 2/12/2018: Some of my students wanted to make templates for laying out patterns. So I created some new Polar Graph paper that prints on 16″ x 16″ paper and saved it as PDF files. I then took the PDF files to my local art store and asked them to plot it on cheap paper. Here is the menu settings I used to create the graph paper. If I had it to do again, I would make the Line Weight = 2 rather than 2.5

The PDF files are here:

polar_graph_36_spokes_12_major
polar_graph_48_spokes_12_major
polar_graph_40_spokes_5_major
polar_graph_28_spokes_7_major

Note: When you try to plot the above files the plotter may automatically fit the files to the largest paper size (usually 36″ wide). If this happens then they need to manually override the paper size when they print the PDF files. On the PDF print menu go to the bottom of the “Page Size” scroll down menu and select “Custom Paper Size”. Then input width = 16.0″ and height = 16.0″

Drafting Compass – I like to use a drafting compass to layout equal distant things. The little wheel in the middle allows me to easily adjust it by just a little bit.

Around $9 on 1/7/2017 from local art supply store, craft store or Amazon. "Staedtler GeoStudent Compass" on Amazon.

 

Quilters Template Plastic – After I draw a shape that I like (triangle, etc), I use this to cut out a template. I then use the template to transfer shape to multiple places. The Al Stirt way.

I also use this to create 1/4″ wide flexible straight edges that I use to layout spirals on hollow forms.

Around $4 for 6 sheets on 2/7/2017. Purchase from local fabric store or on Amazon.

Derwent Graphic 9B Pencil or a Stabilo All 8046 Black Pencil – When I layout a grid on a piece before I draw on a design, I like to use a #2 grammar school pencil for the grid.

Then I draw on the design with a wide soft 9B pencil. The wide line is easy to see and distinguish from the grid. The soft pencil does not leave an impression in the wood.

The Stabilo All 8044 Black pencil washes off with water if surface is sealed first with shellac, polly, or lacquer. It will write on anything! Paper, Glass, Plastic, Metal. It makes a nice wide dark line like a 9B pencil.

Purchase from local art supply store, craft store, or Amazon.

Note: I did not learn this from Al Stirt. Al likes to use a Carpenter Pencil. I don’t like them because they are to hard. When I push to hard they leave an impression in my wood.

Derwent Watercolor Sun Yellow Pencil – I use a yellow water color pencil to draw designs on black things. The pencil will wash off with water if surface is sealed first with shellac, polly, or lacquer.

Purchase from local art supply store, craft store, or Amazon.

Al Stirt taught me to paint a piece black with black acrylic gesso. Sand/buff it with synthetic steel wool. Seal it with lacquer. Then draw a design on it with water color pencil. Carve the design. Then wash off any left over pencil lines with water.

Circular T-Square – I made this circular T-square to help me layout patterns.

The small arm on the T-square has an angle in it that fits the outside of circles. It aligns the long arm with the center of the work. I think I got this idea from Al Stirt.

After I cut a pattern out of “Quilters Template Plastic”, I often tape it to the T-square. This allows me to easily repeat it after indexing with “Polar Graph Paper”.

Note the easy to see, dark lines in the photo drawn with a “Stabilo All 8044 Black” pencil.

 

Books

I don’t know of any really good books on Power Carving Textures on turnings.

Carving on Turnings by Chris Pye is a good book. However it only has a little bit of stuff on textures. It has good stuff on carving leaves, letters, low relief, spirals, furniture stuff, and other traditional carving stuff. It is mostly (all?) hand carving rather than power carving. Chris Pye is a big name in the wood carving world. This book is worth having. But, not if you only want to learn about power carving textures.

Decorating Turned Wood – The Maker’s Eye by Liz & Michael O’Donnell is another good book. However, only the last chapter really, has anything about carving textures.

DVDs and YouTube

I don’t know of any good DVDs. However Al Stirt is a well known master for power carving textures. You can check out some of his demos on YouTube.

In general I DO NOT recommend YouTube. Way to much dangerous stuff is shown on YouTube. Thus I am ONLY recommending the Al Stirt stuff on YouTube. For example "WGNC Demo: Al Stirt carved square platters" on YouTube.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2017/01/power-carving-textures/feed/ 2 http://carlford.info/blog/2016/08/retired-from-ibm/ http://carlford.info/blog/2016/08/retired-from-ibm/#comments Wed, 31 Aug 2016 16:58:05 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=522

Today 8/31/2016 was my last day at IBM.  I started on 6/13/1983.

I voluntarily retired after 33 years, 2 months and 19 days.  Approximately 8347 working days (no weekends or public holidays).

I am looking forward to my 2nd career as a full time Studio Woodturner.

 

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2016/08/retired-from-ibm/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2016/04/hollow-forms-winter-20152016/ http://carlford.info/blog/2016/04/hollow-forms-winter-20152016/#comments Thu, 21 Apr 2016 18:21:22 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=511 Continue reading Hollow Forms Winter 2015/2016 →]]> I will be retiring from IBM on Aug 31, 2016.    After that I should have a lot more time to make blog entries.   I have a lot of ideas and pictures ready to go.  Stay tuned.

Here are some hollow forms I turned over the winter of 2015/2016.   All of the hollow forms were once turned from Cherry or Black Birch logs.   I also roughed out 30 bowls and finished turned 15 bowls.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2016/04/hollow-forms-winter-20152016/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2015/08/my-studio-july-2015/ http://carlford.info/blog/2015/08/my-studio-july-2015/#comments Sun, 02 Aug 2015 22:32:23 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=500 Continue reading My Studio July 2015 →]]> Here are some photos of my studio in July of 2015.

Carl Ford Studio Woodturner

The entrance to Aladdin's Cave

View from Door


The view of Aladdin's Cave from just inside of the door.

360 of Studio, 1 of 8


First of 8 photos that shows a 360 degree view of my studio taken from the middle of room.

This photos shows the work area around my Oneway 2636 lathe.

Note the work bench, tool racks and black dust collector hood.

360 of Studio, 2 of 8


This photo is kind of boring. It shows the main entry doorway, workbench and tool racks.

360 of Studio, 3 of 8


This photo shows the work area around my VB36 bowl lathe with Long Bed tailstock.

Note the tool racks, green light over lathe hanging from ceiling, black dust collector hood, black air gun hose hanging below dust collector hood.

All of my lathes have very good dust collection and air gun.

360 of Studio, 4 of 8


This photo show the area between my VB36 and Powermatic 3520B lathes.

It shows my Grinder, AC, exhaust fan and vacuum pump. The exhaust fan is below AC, behind the grinder.

The windows let in lots of good natural light. It is a cloudy day outside. If it was sunny, I would not be able to take photos because the sun streaming thru the windows would over power my camera.

360 of Studio, 5 of 8


This photos shows the work area around my Powermatic 3520B lathe.

Note the black light on the headstock, sanding drills hanging on front of lathe and jam/vacuum chucks stored under lathe.

All of my lathes have very good overhead lighting and a very good light mounted on the headstock or handing from the ceiling.

360 of Studio, 6 of 8


This photo shows my non turning tools, tool wall and belt sander.

Note the overhead lights. I have lots of lights in my studio. I use warm white light bulbs in all of my fixtures to create a nice warm and inviting feeling in my studio.

360 of Studio, 7 of 8


Another kind of boring photo. This photos shows my Red Mini Lathe and Modine heater unit.

I have very good heat and AC in my studio. The heat and AC are distributed by an overhead air cleaner.

360 of Studio, 8 of 8


This photo shows my metal lathe.

Mini Lathe and Workbench


This photo shows a better view of my Mini Lathe and the rolling workbench for my Powermatic 3520B lathe.

The rolling workbenches (tables) in my studio are located so there is a convenient place to set down your turning tools while working at the lathe. You just have to turn around and the bench is there, with in easy reach.

Everything in my studio, except for the lathes is on LOCKING casters.

Bandsaw & Drill Press


This photo shows my Band Saw, Drill Press, Planer, and Table Saw.

I only need a 14" band saw with a riser block because I rough out all my turning blanks with my chain saw.

Air Cleaner

This photos shows the air cleaner located in the middle of my studio.

I use it to clean the air and distribute the heat and AC in my studio.

Dust Collector

This photo shows my home made 2 HP cyclone dust collector. It will suck the chrome off the bumper of your car!

It is located outside. This keeps the noise and dust outside!

It is nice and quite inside when I run the dust collector.

When I empty the dust collector it does NOT fill the room with dust.

Log Storage and Prep Area

This photo shows my log storage and prep area outside.

I like to store my logs outside in the shade where they get rained on.

The bench in the middle is my horizontal chain saw bench.

The Rube Goldberg in the back is my vertical chain saw bench.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/08/my-studio-july-2015/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2015/07/newbie-lathe/ http://carlford.info/blog/2015/07/newbie-lathe/#comments Fri, 31 Jul 2015 14:05:37 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=426 Continue reading So you want to buy a lathe? A real lathe? →]]>

Updated: 7/8/2017. Change bars in Purple on left. Add new “Parts of a Lathe” section with link to AAW video.

Updated: 2/5/2017. Change bars in Blue on left.  Summary of updates:

1. The new version of the 10″ Penn State Mini Lathe is still my favorite Mini Lathe.

2. I do not like the new Jet lathes. Add them to the list of “Lathes I DO NOT Recommend”.

3. The new 110 volt version of Laguna Revo 18/36 lathe has won me over. Move it to my list of “Recommended 110 Volt Lathes”.

4. The 220 volt version of the Laguna Revo 18/36 is now my low cost “Recommended 220 Volt Lathe”.  It replaces the 220 volt Jet 1642 EVS that is now longer available.

5. The US economy has been stuck in neutral. Thus, lathe prices have not increased by much, if any, in the last 2 years.

Updated: 8/9/2015.  Change bars in Green on left. Add Laguna lathes to not recommended list.  They are close but no cigar.

First published on 7/31/2015.

What lathe should a newbie purchase?

Here is a long winded answer I gave to a student who had a Shopsmith and decided it was time to buy a real lathe.

For the record.  I personally own  a VB36, a Powermatic 3520B,  two Oneway 2436s, and a Penn State TCLPROVS lathe.   At various schools and clubs I have turned on Stubby, Vicmarc, General, Delta, Rockwell, Jet, Grizzly, Vega and old metal cabinet lathes.

In a Nutshell

Hands down the best lathe out there in my not so humble opinion is the Powermatic 3520B with a Oneway Banjo.

The list price is still $3999 on 2/5/2017. It was the same price back on 7/26/2015.

10/28/2017: The Powermatic 3520B lathe is being replaced by a new “C” model. i.e. the Powermatic 3520C. The B model is no longer available from retailers. They sold out in Aug 2017. See Powermatic 3520B below for more info.

Parts (Anatomy) of a Lathe

Before we get started. Newbies may want to watch this video that covers the names of the different parts of a lathe.

Generally, I do not recommend videos. This one is very well done. It is at a very basic level. The video was created by the American Association of Woodturners (AAW). It features one of the lathes that I recommend below. A Delta 46-460 Midi Lathe.

http://www.woodturner.org/?page=DiscoverWTAnatomyZen

Rent a Lathe (Consider the Resale Value)

I started out with a Delta 1642 Steel Bed lathe. I liked it but the sliding headstock was no good for Metal spinning. So, I sold it and purchased a Powermatic 3520B with a rock solid sliding headstock.

I don’t remember how much I payed for or sold my Delta for.  But, I do remember the difference was $1200.  I owned the Delta for 6 years. So, it was like I rented the Delta for $1200 / 6 years = $240 per year.

If you and your wife went away for a weekend. How much would the room and meals cost?  More than $240?

Is $240 a year for a hobby really so bad?

If you purchase a good lathe (like a Powermatic 3520B) and then you sell it in 5-6 years when you lose interest or want a new one.  How much do you lose?

6 or 7 years ago, I purchased my 3520B for $2900.  The current list is $3999. I bet I could sell it today for $3000 and make $100 profit. Because the 3520B is a great lathe, in high demand with a  reasonable list price.

Things to Look For

First,  a few things you should look for.

1. Variable speed. With 2 or more belt speeds.

Changing belts on non variable speed lathes, gets real old, real fast.

2. Headstock and tailstock with #2 MT (Morse Taper) or #3MT.

3. Headstock with 1-1/4″ by 8 threads.

Oneway standard is M33. But they will do 1-1/4″x8 for no additional cost?

Note: M33 and 1-1/4 x 8 are virtually the same size! M33 is just a tiny bit larger than 1-1/4. Thus M33 is not bigger, better, stronger, etc.

4. No gap in the ways near headstock.

5. 16″ or 20″ of swing.   12″ is not enough.

Greater than 20″ swing over the ways is overkill! Once in a blue moon, If you need more than 20″ swing then do it outboard or with a sliding headstock.

12″ of swing is ok for 8″ to 10″ bowls.  But only 12″ of swing creates issues when you try to lower the back end of a gouge handle while turning bowls. The handle runs into the ways of lathe. 16″ of swing is really the minimum.

6. Forward and Reverse.

7. Variable speed adjustable via a knob.  No speed up/down buttons like on Nova lathes!

8. Sliding headstock for bowl turning or outboard.

Oneway lathes are the only ones on which outboard is really usable.

9. Motor is stand-a-lone.  Not part of the headstock like Nova Lathes.

10. 2 HP or more.    (or DC motor with control box on Mini lathes)

Note: The Oneway 1.5 HP lathes are ok.  Because they use a very good motor and motor drive.  Motor drive = Control Box / Inverter.

11. Adjustable leg height.

Oneway just added adjustable height legs to all of there new lathes.   See Oneway web site.

Robust also offers lathes with adjustable height legs.

I have found the one and only leg height for the Powermatic 3520B is a very good and livable compromise.

Things you definitely DO NOT need

Beware! Sacrilege ahead.   But, just a little.

1. Stainless Steel Ways! Currently all the rage. Biggest waste of money on the face of the earth!

For years the lathes at Purchase college have been ridden hard and put away wet by students.    The lathes show lots of signs of wear.   But, rust is not a problem!

That brown stuff you see on the ways of a lathe after turning green wood is NOT rust.  It  is sap, that came out of the green log!   Sap that dries overnight looks just like rust.   The sap from Cherry logs is brownish, it looks like rust.

2. Tilt away or swing away tail stock! Currently all the rage.

Tilt away tail stocks tilt the headstock down and out of the way.

Swing away tail stocks just swing the tailstock around behind the lathe.

I am willing to yield ground on this one. It is not a complete waste of money for some people with strength issues. However, membership in a gym, may be a better use of money.

An easy and cheap alternative. Is a long chunk of pipe hung from the ceiling over ways of the lathe. With a chunk of rope or chain hanging down. Hook the chain around the tailstock and just slide it off. Let it hang in space. Slide it down the pipe and out of the way.

The 17″ aux bed for turning outboard on a Oneway lathe costs the same or less than tilt away tail stocks. Why not just turn outboard on a Oneway?

3. Digital speed read out. Currently all the rage.

If a lathe has it fine.   DO NOT let this drive which lathe you purchase.

When you are driving your car. How often do you check the speed? Only when you see a cop car? After you have been driving for a few months, probably almost never. You just known when you are going the correct speed. Lathes are the same way.

Just because you were turning a bowl yesterday at 700 rpm does not mean you should do it again today! No 2 blanks are the same!!!

For safety! You should always start at the lowest possible speed and then turn the speed up until you are happy with the speed or the lathe starts to shake. If it shakes, then back off. What the stupid digital speed dial says is a HUGE don’t care!

4. A fancy $100 to $200 stand to go under your Mini or Midi lathe with no storage.

Use an old bathroom or kitchen cabinet, or puchase one at Home Depot. You will get storage and a place to set down your tools.

Second Hand Market

Local AAW woodturning clubs are the best source for used lathes that are not antiques or cheap junk.

You can look on Ebay and Crags List. Buyer beware! Shipping can be a huge problem and expense. If it is in a basement, who is responsible for getting it out? It may cost less to buy a new late due to shipping issues and cost.  Who much is a hospital stay for a wrecked back?

I personally would ONLY purchase a lathe that has ALREADY been removed from a basement and is in a garage.

Most good lathes are sold thru local woodturning clubs, long before they would be listed on Ebay or Craigs List. Thus, waiting for a good buy to come up on Ebay or Craigs list is often a miss guided strategy that is doomed to failure.

I don’t need a “serious” professional model

If you don’t want an antique, junk or cheap crap then you probably do need a professional model.  Because the serious enthusiastic and professional models/market are one in the same.

Stick to lathe models with 16″ to 20″ of swing with a sliding headstock or outboard turning on a Oneway lathe. You definitely don’t need to pay for anything over 20″ of swing.

Also you do not need a “Vector” 3 phase motor. Just a regular TEFC 3 phase motor is good enough. I known, speak english. Basically, you don’t need the fancy motor used on Robust lathes.  Also used on Oneway lathes?

110 Volt verses 220 Volt Lathes

I really DO NOT recommend going with 110 volts.

You really need 220 volts. Get it installed in your workshop now and you will save a ton of money in the long run.

I have seen way to many people who are seriously sorry they settled for that 110 volt lathe. Its not big enough or powerful enough. A few upgrade to a 220 volt lathe. But most, suffer on, or they give up on wood turning. Either way the money spent on that 110 volt lathe and a ton more on tools is all just wasted money.

I do not understand why people are afraid of 220 volts. It’s dangerous right? Really?  People use hair dryers and electric shavers, etc in bathrooms all over Europe where 240 volts is standard! Are people all over Europe dying from electrocution? I don’t see it on TV news. All the governments in Europe must be cooperating (1st time ever) on this big conspiracy to keep the danger of 240 volts out of the news. Further more, all the people in the US are not rubbing there nose in how much better the US is because 110 volts is standard in the US. 

Recommended 110 Volt Lathes

1. Penn State KWL-1018VS  Midi Lathe.   $370 on 2/5/2017. (It was $400 on 7/26/2015)

The Variable Speed one!  The 10″ one.  Not the 12″ one!

Penn State is now calling this a Midi lathe.   But, it is really only a Mini lathe in my world!

If you compare this lathe to other mini lathes then note how this mini lathe has a real METAL hand wheel on the tailstock. Easy belt change on the headstock and a easy to use spindle lock with 24 indexing positions.

This is a GREAT little lathe. I really fail to understand why people pay a lot more for the Jet and Rikon mini lathes!

You really don’t need more than 3/4″ HP or 10″ of swing in a mini lathe. There are sensible limits to what you can do on a mini lathe. The lathe bed, banjo, tool reset, etc  are not heavy enough to handle 12” work. 8” bowls are pushing the limit on a mini lathe. Thus 10” swing and 3/4 HP is adequate.

Note: The old Penn State mini lathe use to be #1 MT. The new KWL-1018VS is #2 MT. Click here for more info.

2. Delta 46-460 12-1/2″ Midi Lathe.  $580 on 2/6/2017. (It was $610 on 7/26/2015)

Midi not Mini. Midi lathes are a little bigger than Mini.

I known someone who has this lathe. He really likes it, but he also has a larger lathe. I have turned on it. I like it. But, it can only handle small bowls. 8″ or less. Cut edge only. No natural edge bowls. You can do bowls bigger than 8″ or natural edge. But, you can also drive your car at 120 mph. At least that is what is says on the dash board! 

http://www.woodturner.org/?page=DiscoverWTAnatomyZen

3. 110 Volt Laguna Revo 18/36 Lathe. $2400 on 2/6/2017.

Beware. I have only seen this lathe in photos and talked to people who have used one. I have never seen it up close or turned on it.

Laguna offers a 110 volt and 220 volt version of the Revo 18/36 lathe.

I have always sort of liked this lathe. In the past I gave it a “close but not cigar” rating. I said that if they had a 110 volt version I would recommend it. So, now I am recommending it. It looks similar the Powermatic 3520B but I don’t think it is as good. Not as beefy. Better than the old Jet 1642 and definitely better than any of the new Jets lathes or Nova lathes.

The 110 and 220 version of this lathe are almost identical. The 110 volt version is 1.5 HP. The 220 version is 2HP. There is only a $100 difference in the price!

When you look in the owners manual and the parts list the only difference is the motor and the VFD (Variable Frequency Drive, they call it an Inverter in the parts list.)

Note: It is only a guess on my part, but I think there really is no difference in the motor or VFD. Other than a 110 verses 220 switch on the side of the VFD that is preset to either 110 or 220. They are just running the VFD in voltage doubling mode. Voltage doubling allows you to run a 220 volt 3 phase motor on a 110 volts single phase input via the VFD. Most of the modern low HP VFDs support this. If, I had a good 220 volt lathe design that already had a VFD, then this is what I would do! I would expand my market by offering a 110 volt version via voltage doubling. Voltage doubling is sort of ok, if you are willing to live with a 30% reduction in motor efficiency (aka HP). Well, using 220 volts is really better! The 110 version is 1.5 HP and the 220 version is 2 HP. This is consistent with 30% loss due to voltage doubling. I really don’t understand why more manufactures don’t do this. A 110 volt version of the Powermatic 3520B would sell like hot cakes.

I really want to make it clear that this lathe DOES NOT change my opinion about 110 volts. I DO NOT recommend going with 110 volts. You should upgrade to 220 volts. See “110 Volt verses 220 Volt Lathes” above.

Recommended 220 Volt Lathes

1. Powermatic 3520B Lathe.   $4000 on 7/26/2015 and still $4000 on 2/5/2017.

Hands down the best lathe out there for the money! Nick Cook helped Powermatic get everything right on this lathe! It is built like a tank.

This is still my favorite lathe for the money!

10/28/2017: The Powermatic 3520B lathe is being replaced by a new “C” model. i.e. the Powermatic 3520C. The B model is no longer available from retailers. They sold out in Aug 2017. I have not seen a 3520C yet in person. Only on the internet.

On 10/28/2017 the 3520C is currently not available for purchase. Thus, no official list price yet for the 3520C. Word on the internet is $4400.

Currently, I can not find official 3520C info on the web. It is only in the PRINT version of the “Craft Supplies USA” catalog. It says:

– Movable control box
– Redesigned spindle lock
– Adjustable riser blocks for 6″ of height adjustment
– Digital spindle indexing readout
– ACME thread tailstock quill
– Increased weight for stability

So far, I like what I see. They did not screw up the best features of 3520B. They changed the tailstock to ACME thread. A much needed improvement! More positions in the spindle lock wil be nice. The 3520B only has 2 positions in the spindle lock. I don’t care much about the other changes. I like the location of controls on 3520B. Thus movable control box on 3520C is no big deal to me.

I would have really liked to see fully adjustable legs or at least legs that adjusted in 2″ increments. I am really hoping that “Adjustable riser blocks for 6″ of height adjustment” means the new 3520C legs are 6″ shorter than 3520B legs. The 3520B legs are a little to tall for me. But, 6″ lower would be to much. I am hoping I can replace the 6″ riser blocks with my own 4″ wooden riser blocks if I only want it 2″ lower, etc.

Only available in 2 HP.   More than enough HP because Powermatic uses a good motor with a good motor drive.

The only problem with this lathe is the legs only come one height. However, I have found the height to be a good compromise. Short and tall people seem to agree the height is not ideal, but it is ok. On the other hand, only one leg height, helps keep the price down.

The banjo on  the PM3520b sucks.  It is way to big and heavy for a 20″ lathe.   I STRONGLY recommend replacing the PM banjo with a Oneway 20″ banjo.  Do this BEFORE you start buying additional tool rests and you will save a lot of money.  Because the PM banjo requires special tool rests with an extra long tool post and thus they cost more.

The Oneway banjo design is simply the best out there. No contest. Order the banjo directly from Oneway via there web site under “Toolrest Base Retrofit for Other Lathes”. I have a Oneway banjo on my PM3520B and people love it! The price on 9/2017 was $310 plus shipping of $40 to TX.

Feedback from a reader in 2017 indicates that Oneway will say that you need “Oneway Part No. H0082 – 16″ Banjo For 16″ Swing Lathes”. This causes confusion because the PM3520B is a 20″ swing lathe. I have the “Oneway Part No. 2407 – 20″ Banjo For 20″ Swing Lathes” and it works just fine. This is the one I recommend if you want to use standard tool rests on your 3530B. If you want to use the extra tall tool rests that Powermatic ships with the 3502B then you need “Oneway Part No. H0082 – 16″ Banjo For 16″ Swing Lathes”. Note: This is also confusing because the Oneway part number on there web site is 2407. But, the part number cast into the side of the actual 20″ Oneway banjo is 2408.

Note: The rumor is they redesigned the banjo on the new PM3520C model. They are reusing the banjo from PM90 lathe that has better tool rest height locking mechanism. This would be a welcome improvement. However, the banjo will still not be as good as the Oneway and it will be to low for standard tool rests.

If you need more than 20″ of swing the 18″ Bed Extension ($450 on 7/26/2015).    This will increase the swing to 36″.   The bed is 18″ long.  It can be mounted in line with existing main bed or in a position that is 8″ lower than main bed.

The new PM2020 (short bed version of 3520B), I guess is ok if space is an issue.  But you really don’t save any money!

The PM2448 is overkill.  Not worth the money.

Powermatic is a big name dealer, with lots of products. It does not have to make all it’s money on lathes. So it can sell a really great lathe like the PM3520B for a great price.

By from a local dealer to get the best price and delivery options.

2. Stubby S750 (No longer available)

I really like the Stubby design with a John Jordan stand. It is a very stable lathe. I like the sliding bed ways.

But, I can’t recommend it, because you can not buy one. The company that made it is out of business.

3. Oneway 1640,  2HP is $4510 on 7/26/2015 and still $4510 on 2/5/2017.

Many people over look this lathe because it is not Oneway’s top of the line. It is the best Oneway lathe for the money in my opinion.

However, the Powermatic 3520B is less money and a better lathe.  So the only reason to pick this lathe is if you want to rough out your bowls between centers and then finial turn them outboard. Removing the tailstock and sliding down the headstock on Powermatic 3520B (or any other lathe) is not hard but it can get really old, really fast.

The Oneway wins out over the Vicmarc VL300 because you can turn outboard on the Oneway.

I don’t like the other Oneway lathes. See Lathes I DO NOT recommend below.

Unverified feedback from a reader in 2017 indicated that Oneway no longer offers lathes with a 1-1/4 x 8 threads.

Special order from Oneway with 1-1/4 x 8 threads. DO NOT settle for the standard M33.  Spindle adapters suck! No charge for 1-1/4? I don’t care what it costs. M33 is dead!  Extra cost for 1-1/4″ x 8 will save you a bundle in the long run!

By from a local dealer to get the best price and delivery options.

4. Vicmarc VL300.  $6200 on 7/26/2015 and still $6200 on 2/5/2017.

Vicmarc lathes are very good. Lots of people like them. But current US prices are on the high side.

I don’t known any good reason to pay extra for a Vicmarc when you could get a Powermatic 3520B  for less. You can turn outboard on a Oneway. But not on a Vicmarc.

The new Vicmarc lathes have a swivel headstock. Does this weaken the headstock? I would go with the older, solid headstock on VL300.

5. Magma Black Titan 400.  $9000+ Not available in USA.

This is my dream lathe. The ultimate lathe! The only thing I have seen that comes close to my VB36 lathe or even surpasses it. VB36 quality and built like a tank. With a swivel head that is also a great spindle turning lathe.

6. 220 Volt Laguna Revo 18/36 Lathe. $2500 on 2/6/2017.

The 220 volt version of the Laguna Revo 18/36 is now my low cost “Recommended 220 Volt Lathe”. It replaces the 220 volt Jet 1642 EVS that is now longer available. I don’t like the new Jet lathes (Jet 1640 EVS, 1840 EVS or 1840 DVR). See my reasons below.

At this point in this blog I use to tell people. “If I was held at gun point and I had to recommend a lathe under $3000, I guess it would be Jet 1642. I would not be happy about it!” I don’t feel that strongly about the Laguna lathes. I think the Laguna 18/36 is a little better than the similar Jet 1642. The Powermatic 3520B is definitely a better lathe than Laguna or Jets. The 3520B is worth the extra money.

See 110 Volt Laguna Revo 18/36 Lathe above for more comments.

Bowl Turning Lathes (220 Volts)

1. Outboard turning on a Oneway 1640  with a 24″ Bed Extension.

2HP is $4510 on 7/26/2015 and still $4510 on 2/5/2017.  +$460 for 24″ Bed Extension.

Currently I think the best bowl lathe  is just turning outboard on a Oneway 1640 lathe. The price and HP is right!

I actually known people who have done this.   At least one of them has never used the inboard side of his Oneway 2436.

The Oneway lathes 1640, 20xx, or 24xx are the only ones where you really can turn outboard. Because they have full size bearings in the headstock on outboard side and full size spindle threads.

You can rough out a bowl between centers on the inboard side of a Oneway.  Then mount it on a faceplate or chuck on the outboard side of the lathe.   Beware!  This is going to require a lot of floor space for the lathe and space around the lathe.

The Oneway 1640 is very attractive for outboard turning because the bed extension on the outboard side is lower than the main bed on inboard side.   See photo.  Thus the swing on the outboard side is 24″.    This should be plenty for most bowl turning!

If you need more than 24″ of swing then remove the outboard bed and use a stand-a-lone Powermatic 520B Outboard Turning Stand ($520 on 7/26/2015.)  Outboard turning stands get mixed reviews.   The PM is the best of the lot.    The best solution is really the floating tool rest beam on a  VB36 lathe.

See #3 above for my comments about ordering the lathe with 1-1/4 x 8 spindle rather than M33.  M33 is dead!

2. Sliding Headstock Lathes

You can side the headstock on Powermatic and Robust lathes and then turn bowls off the end of the lathe bed.   This works.  But, turning more than one bowl in a session becomes real old, real fast!

Because doing the following repeated, becomes tedious.   Starting out between centers, removing the tailstock, sliding down the headstock and banjo, turning the bowl, sliding the headstock and banjo back, reinstalling the tailstock, finishing the bottom on a jam or vacuum chuck.

The headstock on my Powermatic 3520b is heavy.  It takes a lot of effort to slide it.   If the bed is a little dirty from turning green wood or a little saw dust gets in the way then things get ugly.

Turning outboard on a Oneway avoids all the sliding headstock BS.  But, it requires a lot of floor space.

3. VB36  $9000 on 7/26/2015

I have a VB36 and I love it. It is the best lathe out there for turning bowls. But, I can not recommend it because you need to purchase a VB36 with a tailstock for safety. With the tailstock the price is over $9000 in US due to exchange rates, etc. To much!

Even with a tailstock the VB36 is really only good for bowls. The bearings in VB36 headstock are great for bowls. But really suck for spindle work, even with the tailstock.

I absolutely love the bayonet head, the floating tool rest beam and tilt away tailstock on my VB36. These features drive my friends and students crazy. But, I love them and wish all lathes had them!

If you get a VB36 then you must get a Benson Adapter for tool rest! A VB36 without a Benson Adapter sucks. With a Benson Adapter, it is the best tool rest on any lathe!

The VB36 is now made by Steinert in Germany. The old manufacturer in England was very good the new manufacturer is probably even better.

Lathes I DO NOT Recommend

Beware! Lots of sacrilege here!

There are going to be lots of people who do not agree with what I have to say here. They are entitled to there opinion. And I am entitled to my opinion.

1. Any Jet Lathe. Quality to low.

Jet lathes are popular with new turners because the price is right and some models run on 110 volts. But, I just can’t recommend them. Some times I hear good stories. But, to many people, I known have been disappointed or very disappointed.

I known someone who has a Jet 1642 and likes it. But, he understands it has limitations and discounts them because he feels it is good enough for what he needs.

I have turned a lot on Jet 1642 lathes at the Brookfield Craft Center. I really hate the banjo on the Jet 1642 with a passion! It just will not stay put when I turn bowls. The STUPID little knob that is suppose to hold the tool rest firmly in the banjo does not even come close! The tool rest is always moving around. Err… The banjo is also always moving around on the ways. Because the banjo hold down and locking mechanism is also Micky Mouse! Err…!!! If I owned a Jet 1642 I would replace it with the Oneway 16″ banjo in a second! See my Oneway Banjo comments above under Powermatic 3520 lathe.

In this blog I use to tell people. “If I was held at gun point and I had to recommend a lathe under $3000, I guess it would be Jet 1642. I would not be happy about it!” The Jet 1642 is no longer available. So, I guess I dogged a bullet. I now recommend the Laguna Revo 18/36 for a lathe under $3000.

I don’t like the new Jet lathes that replaced the Jet 1642. Even at gun point I would NOT recommend one of the new ones. I don’t like the new Jet 1640 EVS, or the Jet 1840 EVS or the Jet 1840 DVR. I DO NOT like rotating headstock lathes. They have a well deserved bad reputation. I DO NOT like DVR lathes. They have a well deserved bad reputation. All the big names lathes (Powermatic, Oneway, Robust, etc) use belts, because belts work better! They don’t use rotating headstocks because there is no way to make the headstock dead rock solid and there is no good way to get the tool rest into the right position and make it dead rock solid.

Avoid any Jet lathe that does not have variable speed.

Avoid the Jet 12xx an 1442 lathes like the plague! The motor in back interferes with the swing on right side of head stock!  The rotating part of the headstock is to wimpy, etc, etc.

The Penn State Mini lathes are better than Jet. Well, at least, less money.

The Powermatic lathes appear to be similar to Jet. But, have better bearings, etc. Powermatic is a far better choice then Jet and worth the extra bucks!

2. Any Nova Lathe.  To wimpy.

In particular I do not like the Nova DVR lathe. Pushing AND HOLDING the buttons to go faster or slower, drives me crazy and is a HUGE waste of my time! I known I am not the only person who feels this way! And yea, I known you can program it to avoid this. Years have gone by, and I am still waiting to meet the 1st person who has SUCCESSFULLY programmed it.

The new “Dial-In Speed Knob” on the new Nova Galaxi DVR 1644 Lathe is a much needed improvement. But, is it really an improvement? Or did they just fixed a really crappy design. They now have, what all other lathes have had for a long time.

The new Galaxi DVR 1644 still has a wimpy bed and a sliding and rotating headstock that has a bad reputation for not being dead rock solid.

The bed of Nova lathes is to wimpy. To thin and flexible. So the banjo and tool rest flex to much. The screw in the tailstock is to wimpy. The stand is wimpy. The headstock locking mechanism sucks. etc. etc.

I known lots of people who own a Nova DVR lathe and love it. If they love it, then generally they like to do small things and don’t push the limits.

I also known people who have burned out the motor in headstock or have issues with the electronics.  They are really screwed because everything  is built into the one piece headstock and can not be replaced at any reasonable price. They love to do big things or they learned to love doing big things and pushed the Nova’s limits.  They learned the hard way that the Nova swing may be 16″,  but,  you really can not do lots of bowls over 8″ to 10″.

People primarily purchase Nova lathes because they are 110 volts and the price is right. I think they should just upgrade to 220 volts and spend the extra bucks for a great lathe. Like, a Powermatic 3520B. See my 110 volt my comments above.

No resale value? Nova lathes are hard to sell because they may have been ridden hard and put away wet.  They don’t hold up well due to, wimpy bed, etc.

If you are looking for a lathe in the Nova price range take a look at the new Laguna Revo 18|36 lathe.  I don’t recommend it (see below), but it is a lot beefier.

3. Oneway 1224 Lathe

This lathe is generally not liked by most people. I turned on one for a week at a craft school. It is not as bad as people say. But, I understand why people don’t like it.

The design is old and tired. The 1″ spindle sucks. Only 12″ of swing on any lathe causes issues when you try to turn bowls with the handle in down position.

4. Oneway 24xx and 20xx Lathes

Big time sacrilege here! I own 2 Oneway 2436 lathes, 1.5 hp. And I have turned on lots of Oneway 24xx lathes.

Realistically, I don’t think anyone needs more than 16″ to 20″ of swing.  So 24″ of swing is over kill.

Only 1.5 hp or 2 hp is not an issue in my experience.   Oneway uses good motors and vector drives that make it’s 1.5hp lathes out perform other lathes.

The Oneway 1640 is a very good lathe. The best Oneway lathe. If/when you need more than 16″ of swing then turn out board.

The Oneway lathes 1640, 20xx, or 24xx are the only ones where you really can turn outboard. Because they have full size bearings in the headstock on outboard side and full size spindle threads.

I my not so humble opinion M33 is dead!   No other lathe manufacture has picked up on the M33 thread spindle size.   All of the European lathe manufactures go with 1-1/4 x 8 threads.

M33 and 1-1/4 x 8 are virtually the same size!  M33 is just a tiny bit larger than 1-1/4.   Thus M33 is not bigger,  stronger, etc.

If you get stuck with a M33 Oneway lathe then you can not exchange chucks, face plates, and accessories with your buddies,  club members, etc.    M33 to 1-1/4 spindle adapters are a pain to use, introduce problems and are not cheap.  Special ordering your Oneway lathe directly from Oneway with a 1-1/4 threads will save you a lot of headaches and money in the long run.

5. Any Robust Lathe

Major, major, major sacrilege here.

Currently, all the big name woodturners can’t do enough to sing the praises of Robust lathes. Why? My guess (and it is a guess) is because they are getting really sweet deals on new Robust lathes for there woodturning schools and/or there is lots of room for sales commissions in Robust’s over inflated prices.

Robust lathes have adjustable legs. A long overdue advancement. Otherwise, I don’t need to pay the big bucks they want for Robust lathes. I don’t need Stainless Steel Ways, digital speed read out, etc.

6. Powermatic 4248B

The big bucks for this lathe just don’t make sense. It is just a bigger version of the 3520B for a lot more money.

If you need more than 20″ of swing then get a PM 3520B with the 18″ Bed Extension ($450 on 7/26/2015). This will increase the swing to 36″.   The bed is 18″ long.  It can be mounted in line with existing main bed or in a position that is 8″ lower than main bed.

If you want the Gary Sanders light stand on the PM 4248B then you can order it direct from Oneway ($289 on 7/26/2015).

7. Any Lathe NOT sold by Packard Woodworks or Craft Supplies USA.

i.e. Grizzly, Harbor Freight, Shop Fox, Rikon, Apprentice lathes, etc.

In the same class as Jet Lathes? Or are they really in the Harbor Freight junk class? You will not be happy!

Grizzly may be a cut above the others.   But, I still think you will not be happy in the long run.

The crappy aspects of these lathes will just hold you back.   Sooner or latter you will give up on woodturning or decided to buy a real lathe.

The new Apprentice 812 VS Mini Lathe sold by Craft Supplies with that crappy plastic tail stock hand wheel and #1 MT is a copy of a really old design with a well deserved really bad reputation.

8. Any Metal Cabinet Lathe

i.e. any lathe mounted on top of a metal cabinet. Any lathe with motor in a metal cabinet under the headstock.

The noise from the rock rattle and roll of any lathe with a old fashion metal cabinet will drive you crazy.

This pretty much rules out, all of the old lathes on Ebay, etc.

9. Any Vega Lathe.

Bare bones, industrial lathes for companies who hate there employees.

The banjo handle on the Vega bowl lathe is a real ball buster and huge pain in the back side.   It flops all over the place when you are trying to use it.   The tailstock is a complete joke!

No sacrilege here. Everyone pretty much agrees.

10. Laguna Lathes (added on 8/9/2015)

I don’t recommend any of the Laguna lathes.   They come close but no cigar.

Beware.  I have only seen these lathes in photos.  I have never seen them up close or turned on them.

The Laguna mini lathe simply costs to much.  The Penn State TCLC10VS is a better deal.  Easier to change belts, etc.

The Laguna 16-43 and 18-47 lathes, look like more expensive versions of the same old tired designed offered by Jet and Grizzly.

The Laguna Revo 18|36 looks like the old Delta 16-42 Steel Bed lathe with a different headstock.  The Delta was 110 volts.  If it was still available it would be at the top of my recommend 110 volts lathes.   Unfortunately the Laguna 18|36 is 220 volts and thus it does not really stand out.  It is probably better than the Nova lathes in the same price range due to being a lot beefier.

Updated 2/6/2017: Laguna now offers a 110 volt version of there Laguna Revo 18/36 lathe. It is now my recommended 110 volt lathe. See “Recommended 110 Volt Lathes” above. The Jet 1642 lathe is no longer available and I don’t like the new Jet lathes. Thus, the 220 volt version of the Laguna Revo 18/36 lathe is my now my low cost “Recommended 220 Volt Lathe” above.

The Laguna 16-43, 18-47, and 20-36 lathes appear to no longer be available. No real loss here. I have not changed my mind about the Laguna 24-36. See comments in next paragraph.

The Laguna 20-36 and 24-36 lathes appear to be lesser copies of the Powermatic 3520B design for virtually the SAME price.   For the same money why not go with the well known and loved PM 3520B?

I seriously question the headstock on the 20-36 and 24-36 lathes.  It appears not to be as beefy as the PM 3520B.  And the beefy headstock with beefy bearings is one of the great features of the PM 3520B.  The belts and pulleys inside of the Laguna headstock are definitely not up to the PM, Oneway, etc standard and definitely don’t look like they are wide enough to drive 3HP (or even 2HP).

The 2 HP of the PM 3520B is plenty.  You don’t need 3 HP.

The ability to mount the optional bed extension on the front of the lathe near the headstock is of little value in my experience.  You can do this on Stubby lathes.  But, I suspect, most people don’t.  Because it gets in the way and putting it on and taking it off is way to much trouble.   I turn on the headstock side of my PM 3520B all the time.   I just move the banjo up next to the headstock and turn the tool rest to be perpendicular to the ways of the lathe.   It works great.  No bed extension in the way.   I don’t need a second banjo, etc.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/07/newbie-lathe/feed/ 4 http://carlford.info/blog/2015/03/lathe-shower-curtains/ Thu, 26 Mar 2015 18:27:22 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=419 Continue reading Lathe Shower Curtains →]]> A “Lathe Curtains” tip in the December 2014 issue of the AAW Journal magazine inspired me. I decided to replace the dirty old painters tarps I used in my studio to control wood shavings with some nice new shower curtains. The new curtains work great and look great.

People say I have never seen an idea, I can’t improve. They may be right. I liked the “use cloth shower curtains” idea but the track, hooks and string shown in the article were to wimp and expensive for me. I decided to make my own long and cheap hooks and hang them from cheap EMT pipe.

Here is how I did it.

Shower Curtains In Use

Two white linen shower curtains in use.

My VB36 lathe is behind the curtains.

Note the pile of wood shavings on the floor. The shavings stop where the curtains stop.

The curtains do not go all the way to the floor because it is not necessary. Curtains that drag on the floor get dirty and are a pain to deal with when you want to clean up the shavings. Or, store the curtains out of the way, etc.

The curtains, also do not go all the way to the ceiling because it is not necessary. Throwing the shavings over the curtains while turning is not likely.

Shavings Behind the Curtains

This photos shows what was beind the curtains. My VB36 lathe and a few shavings.

The curtains did their job. They stopped a lot of shavings from being spread all over the studio.

I like linen (aka cloth) curtains rather than plastic! You DO NOT need plastic to deal with green (aka wet) wood! Water just runs down the linen curtains. That's why they call them "Shower" curtains!

Plastic curtains suck. They smell bad. The hook holes tear out. To much weight and bulk. They are a pain to deal with. Hard to slide around and hard to store up out of the way (see last photo).

Plastic curtains make your studio ugly and dark. White linen curtains reflect light and make your studio a nice place to work.

My VB36 Lathe & Shavings

A made a few shavings here. 2 to 3 bowls worth.

The ash logs were green and wet. Lots of water came flying out when I ran the lathe around 700 to 1000 rpm.

The water made a mess on my faceshield but was handled by the linen curtains, no problem. You don't need plastic curtains.

Shavings On The Floor

This photo was taken, looking out, from inside of the curtains. You can see that the shavings stop were the curtains stop. You DO NOT need curtains that go all the way to the floor.

Bfore the shower curtains, I used a painters tarp. The tarp was to long. It dragged on the floor. It got dirty and looked ugly. It was a pain to deal with. To heavy. To much bulk. Cleaning up the shavings was difficult because I had to move the tarp out of the way or hold it up, etc.

Now I can just push the curtains out of the way with my broom or shovel when cleaning up the shavings because the curtains stop 6" above the floor.

Hanging The Curtains

I hang the shower curtains from home made hooks that hang on a pipe that is hung from the ceiling.

I make my own hooks from welding rod (see next photo).

I adjust the lenght of the hooks so the curtains hang 6" from the floor. The hook end that goes over the pipe is big and open so I can easily slide the curtains along or quickly remove them.

The pipe is 3/4" EMT Electrical Conduit (aka thin wall galvanized steel pipe) from local big box hardware store. It is cheap and comes in 10 foot lengths. I like to be able to slide my cutains the entire lenght of the 10 ft pipe so I just hang it from the ends. With light weight linen shower curtains, and 3/4" EMT, sag is not a problem. 1/2" EMT would sag to much.

I hang the pipe from ceiling using #12 SOLID THHN copper wire (see latter photo).

Hooks Made From Gas Welding Rod

I make my own hooks out of 1/8" RG45 Gas Welding Rod. The rod is copper coated steel. It is sold in 36" lengths by the pound.

The rod use to be available at any local welding supply store. But, it has gone out of fashion and is now hard to find. I get mine fromwww.mcmaster.com #7972A123, $7 for 1 pound on 3/26/2015.

I cut and bend the rod with 9" Linemen's Plyers from local big box hardware store. You need a full size (9") set of Linemen's Plyers to deal with 1/8" steel wire. Not the cheaper mini ones they try to sell you these days. Or you can make due with a vise and hacksaw.

Close the Hook

I use a vise to close the hook on the curtain.

I don't want the hooks to come off and get lost when I take down the curtains to get them out of the way or move them to a different location in my studio.

I only put a hook in every other eye in the curtain. This allows the curtain to fold nicer and take up less space when you slide it out of the way (see last 2 photos).

Removable Curtains

I like to be able to easily install and remove the curtains.

Remove them to keep them clean. Or move them to another location in my studio.

I use a green twist tie to keep the hooks organized when I remove the curtains. The twist tie is semi permently attached to one of the hooks so it does not get lost when I spread the curtains out (see green tie in next photo).

I can easily slide or remove the curtains because my hooks are just big enough to fit losely over the pipe.

Cross Pipe

In my first photo you may have noticed that my curtains cut across the room at a 45 degree angle.

This photo shows how the cross pipe intersects the main pipe at a 45 degree angle and is just hung from the main pipe with a fancy locked hook I made out of RG45 welding rod.

The other end of the pipe is hung from another pipe on the other side of room with a similar hook. Thus I can easily move the cross pipe by sliding it along the main pipes. Or, I can easily remove it by just sliding the end out of fancy hook.

Notice the blue filter in the background. This is the output from my dust collector. It is mounted in the middle of my studio. It can shoot its output over my curtains. That's good, because the air is clean and I use the dust collector to distribute the heat and AC in my studio.

Pipe Hanger

Here is how I hang the pipe form the ceiling. I use #12 THHN solid copper electrical wire from local hardware store. It must be SOLID wire rather than stranded.

I attach the wire to the ceiling using a long dry wall screw and fender washers. I have found that dry wall screws are simpler and cheaper than screw hooks.

Note: This is a bad photo angle. The silver screw hook in the background is attached to the black wire that is holding up my air cleaner. It has nothing to do with the pipe. I hang the air cleaner so fan vibration is not transmitted thru the ceiling to the rest of my house.

The pipe is electrical EMT. I put an EMT coupling on the end of the pipe or pass the wire thru the pipe to keep it from slipping off.

I only support the pipe at each end so I can slide my curtains the entire 10 ft length of the pipe.

Vertical Storage

Here is what the curtains look like when they are slide over to be stored out of the way.

There are 2 curtains here. Each of them is 6 ft by 6 ft. The nice light weight linen shower curtains don't take up much space.

Horizontal Storage

Here is what the curtains look like when I loop them over a big red hook to really get them up and out of the way.

The big red hook is from local hardware store. They sell them for hanging up ladders and bikes.

Shower Curtains from Amazon

The shower curtains I use are: "Croscill Fabric Shower Curtain Liner, 70-inch by 72-inch, White" by Croscill. $11 each from Amazon on 3/26/2015.

You are probably going to need 2 or more 6 ft wide curtains.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/03/essential-books-dvds-for-students/ http://carlford.info/blog/2015/03/essential-books-dvds-for-students/#comments Fri, 13 Mar 2015 19:22:35 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=370 Continue reading Essential Books & DVDs for Students →]]>

Updated: 5/24/2018. Add “Project Books” section and Jordan “The Aesthetics & Properties of Wood” DVD.

Here are the books and DVDs I recommend to students when I teach a class.

You may be able to get these books from your local library, otherwise purchase from  Packard Woodworks Inc or  Craft Supplies USA or Amazon. I often save money by purchasing used books via Amazon.

Spindle Turning

Book: Woodturning: A Foundation Course by Keith Rowley

This is my goto book for Spindle Turning and the “Laws of Woodturning”

Everyone should have a copy of this book for the “Laws of Woodturning” chapter.   The woodturning world seems to generally agree these are the safety laws that should not be violated for any reason!   The laws are simply stated and then succinct explained in words with good diagrams.

This book also has good descriptions of the spindle tools (roughing gouge, parting tool, spindle gouge, skew, etc) for beginners.  Good step by step diagrams of how to use the tools to turn beads & coves, etc.  Also good photos.

The bowl turning (faceplate turning) stuff in this book is useful but dated.  Most people now use bowl gouges with an Ellsworth/Irish/Sinde grind rather than the Traditional grind shown in this book.  Thus I prefer the Ellsworth book shown below.

DVD: Keith also has a DVD.  Same tile and image.  I think the DVD is good for beginners.  A little slow for experienced people.  The DVD does a good job showing the “Laws of Woodturning”.

The traditional grind bowl turning stuff on DVD is not my cup of tea.  The goblet project on the DVD is good for beginners and there is also an interesting lamp project on the DVD.

The book is a must have. The DVD is nice to have if you can pick up a used copy on Amazon for $20 or less.  You can check out the preview on YouTube.

Bowl Turning (Faceplate Turning)

Book: Ellsworth on Woodturning: How a Master Creates Bowls, Pots, and Vessels, by David Ellsworth

This is my goto book for Bowl Turning, Hollow Forms and Sharpening.

This book is a MUST HAVE!

Very good chapters on  Sharpening,  Faceplates, Cut Rim & Natural Edge Bowls, Hollow Forms and Sanding.  Definitely worth reading cover to cover.

All of the photos and diagrams in the book are top notch and very useful.

 

DVD:  The Ellsworth Signature Gouge & Sharpening Jig

This DVD is a MUST HAVE!

It is a fantastic learning aid because the TV camera is over David’s shoulder.  So you see, what David is seeing.  You feel like you are looking thru his glasses.

You can see precisely how David is holding the gouge and manipulating it.  You can see the angle of the gouge, where and when David rotates the gouge, etc.

I took David’s beginner class at his studio in Bucks County, PA.  I loved it. But, it was a lot to absorb in a short time.  I really learned to turn by watching this DVD.  I would watch the DVD.  Try something on my own.  It would fail.   Then I would go back to the DVD and watch it over and over, forward and reverse.  Until, I understood why it works for David.  “Oh Look: Right there!  He rotates the gouge just a little bit, and it opens up and cuts, no problem!”

Note: This DVD actually first came out as a video tape long before the above book.   It now, very nicely, complements the above book.

Check out the preview on YouTube before purchasing.

Book: The Art of Turned Bowls: Designing Bowls with a World Class Turner by Richard Raffan

It is always good to get a second opinion.  This book complements David Ellsworth’s book nicely.

The pictures in the book are gorgeous.  However, the reason I really recommend this book is for the “Profile Templates” drawings that show several different variations of basically the same bowl design.  The  good and bad points of each variation are discussed in the text.  There are lots of great drawings.

There is some good “Design” stuff in Ellsworth’s book.   This book really goes a lot further into “Design”.   It also has 2 good chapters on Surface Decoration.

Project Books

There are no fixed (must do) projects in my Woodturning Workshop classes. You can do anything you want. However, some students need something to help get them started. I use the following books in my classes. Listed below in the order I like them.

We do the projects in the books as is. Or use it as a source of inspiration. Then improvise on the theme. Like Jazz music.

Book: Weekend Woodturning Projects: 25 Designs To Help Build Your Skills by Mark Baker

I really like this book because the projects all have really great lines/shapes. It is really head and shoulders above all other project books.

Great book format. Great full page photo of the project on the left with a very good full page drawing with dimensions on the right.

All of the photos in Mark’s books are of REAL projects. NO Sketch Up (or what ever) 3D renderings of things the author has not turned.

Book: Woodturning Projects: A Workshop Guide To Shapes by Mark Baker

I also like this book, but not as much as the above book. This was Mark’s 1st project book. The above book is Mark’s 2nd project book.

The format of this book is also very good. Photo of project and text on left with drawing with dimensions on the right.

The projects in this are NOT the same as the above book. This book has a lot more projects students often want to try. It has 10 Boxes, 10 Bowl, 10 Platter, 10 Hollow Form and 10 Natural Edge projects. All with good photos and drawings.

Both of Mark’s books suffer from being Metric first, then translated to English dimensions with stupid 1/32″ accuracy. So you see dimensions like 31/32″ rather than 1″ in the project drawings. I just round everything off to 1/8 of an inch. Anything less than 1/8 of an inch is to small for me to worry about.

Book: Bert Marsh: Woodturner by Bert Marsh

When my students with some experience flip thru this book they always fall in love with something. The shapes of the bowls and vases in this book are just fabulous.

Thus we often use this book as a source of inspiration. The overall sizes of pieces are given. But, there are no drawings with dimensions, how to text or photos, etc. It is really just a picture book.

This book is listed again below under “Picture Books”. See my comments there on how to find a copy.

Book: Woodturning Forms and Materials by John Hunnex

This is a picture book that students with some experience like to use as a project book. Students are drawn to some of the surface decoration stuff, exotic woods, turning plywood, and laminated platters.

There are good pictures of over 100 pieces. The format of the book is 1 piece per page. Photo on top with brief text on bottom. The text shows overall size of piece then a brief description of the piece. There are NO step by step directions or drawings with dimensions.

Picture Books

Book: Bert Marsh: Woodturner by Bert Marsh

Last year, I attended a woodturning symposium at which a well known Irish demonstrator suggested that if you want to turn a great looking bowl just pick out anything in Bert Marsh’s book.   I agreed with him wholeheartedly.

The shapes of the bowls and vases in this book are fabulous.

This book has been out of print for a long time.   Used copies shipped from the UK, use to be around $150.  You can now get a used copy in the US on Amazon for around $10.

Book: New Masters of Woodturning: Expanding the Boundaries of Wood Art by Martin & Wallace

This book is a fabulous picture book with artist profiles.   The format and layout of the book is very appealing and the photos are really inspiring.

Everything in the book has been enhanced with surface embellishment (carving, painting, etc).  If you are looking for simple things you can turn then look elsewhere!  (Like in the Raffan book, I recommend above.)

If you are looking for inspiration then this is the book!  If you are looking for artists that you want to see in demos or take a class with then this is the book!

This book is currently out of print and around $36 used on Amazon.  I purchased mine new for $30.

Book: Masters: Woodturning: Major Works by Leading Artists by Lark Books

This book is similar to the above book. Great photos of highly embellished work with artist profiles.  This book has more photos for each artist.  But, I like the above book better.

At only $20 on Amazon it is hard to go wrong with this book.

Note: I think this book replaces the old “500 Wood Bowls: Bold & Original Designs Blending Tradition & Innovation by Lark Books” that is now out of print and definitely not worth the $50+ used price on Amazon.

Hollow Forms

I believe people should learn to hollow using a set of SMALL Ellsworth style hollowing tools.  After you  have mastered the small tools then switch to a more modern Rolly Munro style tool held in a Trent Bosh “Hollowing Tool Stablizer”

I am not a big fan of Captured Bar Hollow Systems (Jamieson, etc).

I don’t known of any books that cover Munro or Captured Bar Hollowing Systems.

Book: Ellsworth on Woodturning: How a Master Creates Bowls, Pots, and Vessels, by David Ellsworth

There are two good Hollow Form chapters in David’s book using his Ellsworth style hollowing tools.   See my comments above under “Bowl Turning”

DVD: Tape ‘T’- Tools for Hollow Turning by David Ellsworth

This is a very dated video.  Circa 1994.  The fundamentals of hollowing have not changed,  thus this tape still has lots of good stuff for beginners.  It features hollowing with LARGE Ellsworth style tools.   I recommend using SMALL style Ellsworth tools rather than LARGE.  Everything on this tape applies to SMALL or LARGE tools.

Check out the preview on YouTube before purchasing.

DVD: Hollow Turning by John Jordan

This is another good dated video.  John Jordan’s method of finding his way around inside of a hollow form is different than Dave Ellsworth’s.

I use a mix of the two methods.  It is always good to get a second opinion thus I like recommend this DVD for beginners.

Check out the preview on YouTube before purchasing.

Others

It is hard to go wrong with any DVD by Mike Mahoney.  His “From Tree To Table” is one of my favorites.   It is now out of print.  His “Heirlooms” DVD is the closest replacement.

It is hard to go wrong with any book by Richard Raffan.  However, he uses a Bowl gouge with a Tradition grind rather than an Ellsworth/Irish/Side grind.

Wood

DVD: The Aesthetics & Properties of Wood by John Jordan

What is the best way to cut up a log to make a bowl or hollow form? Why do my finished projects crack? Why do my bowls go oval? Why do the rims of my bowls distort? What is the best way to orient the grain in a log?

This very good DVD by John addresses all of the above questions plus a lot more. It is full of simple and PRACTICAL advice on how to avoid a lot of problems and pain.

Learning Versus Demo DVDs

In my opinion there are 2 general types of DVDs.  “Learning” and “Demo”.   I prefer “Learning” DVDs.   All of the DVDs I have recommend above are “Learning” DVDs.

In “Learning” DVDs the video camera is mounted above the  bed of the lathe or  over the shoulder of the turner.   This allows you to see how the turner is holding the turning tool, moving the tool, tool angles, etc.   Thus you can learn from the DVD.

In “Demo” DVDs the video camera is facing the turner, like being in the audience at a demo.   You get a feel for what the turner is doing, and maybe some inspiration.  But, you really can not see how the turner is using a tool  and thus really can not learn from the DVD.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/03/essential-books-dvds-for-students/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2015/02/ram-board/ Fri, 27 Feb 2015 14:50:44 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=358 Continue reading Ram Board Workbench Cover →]]>
They sell it to protect fancy tile and wood floors in houses while they are building them or remodeling.

Ram Board Roll

Ram board comes in 38 inch by 50 foot rolls. At $30 it is close to my price limit. But, I like it. It is thick and tough. After a couple of days it lays flat.

Ram Board Logo

Web Address

www.ramboard.com

Cutting Ram Board

It cuts good and easy with airplane snips.

Ram Board for Workbench Cover

It makes a good workbench cover. Thicker and thus tougher then the Red Rosin paper I use to use. I had to temporarily tape it down flat. I will remove the tape in a few days after the Ram Board and carpet under it flatten out.

Workbench Covers

Long ago, I covered my workbench with a chunk of carpet to make it softer.   I don’t like to break turned bowls, etc when I accidentally drop them while working on them.  I also don’t like them to slide around.

Then, a few years latter I covered the carpet with a chunk of Red Rosin Paper.  Because, I got tired of wood chips and saw dust sticking in the carpet.   To hard to clean.  The paper also keeps my workbench clean when I paint things.   I often use acrylic paint or milk paint to decorate my wood turnings.   When I have students, I often explain things by drawing on the paper.

But the Red Rosin Paper was to thin.  It needed to be replaced to often.  Because, I often tour it or cut thru it by accident.

For years I have been looking for something heaver, that was cheap and did NOT have a slick surface.   I have used this new Ram Board stuff now for a few months and it works great!

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/02/woodturning-mag-projects/ Sun, 22 Feb 2015 14:46:40 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=354 Continue reading Projects at Woodturning Magazine →]]> I recently discovered that the Woodturning Magazine from the UK has some nice projects on the web.  Some of the projects are to simple or clumsy for me, but others are very nice.

I really like the “Print This Page” link at the bottom of each project page.  It allows me to print out all of the photos with captions.   This allows me to take the print outs down to my studio and give them a try.

Under the “Projects” pulldown menu on main page there are  good sub categories for faceplate work, hollow forms, etc.

Note: I don’t like the way their web page links use a database number like “page.asp?p=1943” rather than a page name.   When they change things around the links in this post will probably stop working.  Ugg!

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/02/modern-tool-set/ Thu, 12 Feb 2015 23:13:03 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=351 I updated the 2015 version of this document on 10/01/2018. Time marches on!

I have created a new handout that covers MY suggestions for a Modern Tool Set.   It is on my website here:

http://www.carlford.info/pages/jigs_tools/modern_tool_set/modern_tool_set.pdf

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/hard-versus-soft-maple-the-wood-database/ http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/hard-versus-soft-maple-the-wood-database/#comments Mon, 26 Jan 2015 16:42:46 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=342 Continue reading Hard Versus Soft Maple – The Wood Database →]]> It seems like people always put the word “Hard” before the word “Maple”. So when people tell me they have a nice “Hard Maple” log, I think it is really probably “Soft Maple”.  Because that is what I find when I cut into the log.

Real Hard Maple needs to be species Acer Saccharum. Which is commonly known as Hard, Rock or Sugar Maple. Soft Maple is Silver, Red, Striped, Bigleaf Maple or Box Elder.

I like the figure in Hard Maple. It makes nice spindle turnings. Soft Maple does not thrill me. But, In general, I don’t like Maple because it is to hard to sand and people always give me ugly Soft Maple.

I found a nice “Wood Database” article on the web that explains the difference.

“Differences Between Hard Maple and Soft Maple”. Click here for web. Click here for PDF.

The Wood Database has some other interesting articles here. Like “The Ten Best Woods You’ve Never Heard Of”.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/hard-versus-soft-maple-the-wood-database/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/handy-sandpaper-2/ http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/handy-sandpaper-2/#comments Wed, 07 Jan 2015 17:57:22 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=326 Continue reading Handy Sandpaper →]]> I like to keep my sandpaper handy and organized. Here is how I do it.

Handy Sandpaper

Here is how I keep my sandpaper handy. I attach it to 1/8" plywood boards and hang it up.

When I am ready to use the sandpaper I take the board over to the lathe and set it on the "ways" of the lathe.

Then all the grits are handy for quick changes.

I have one board for 2" disks and another board for 3" disks. I recently added a third board for chunks of my Stikit sandpaper.

Sanding Board

I use one board for each size disk.

This board is for 3" disks. The grits are marked in the center. The disks on the left are on SOFT foam interface pads. The disks on the right are on HARD interface pads. See next photo for a better view of interface pads.

I like the blue sanding disks and foam pads from Vince's Wooden Wonders. For more into see my "Greate Polyurethane Finishes" handout at http://www.carlford.info/pages/demos_classes/great_poly_fi nish/Great_Poly_Finish.pdf

Velcro on Sanding Boards

I only use hook and loop (aka Velcro) disks. I attached them to boards via velcro. The blue arrow in photo points to velcro.

I purchase a roll of sticky backed velcro at local big box store. I attach the hook side to the boards in two long strips. The glue on velcro is wimpy. Thus, I use 1/2" long tacking staples to make it permanent. The silver bars you see in photo on black velcro are the staples. The staples are way to long, because I use 1/8" plywood. I just let the staples go thru and then bend them over on the back.

Note: I only use the hook and loop side of velcro I purchase. I discard the fuzzy side.

I like the 1/8" birch plywood because it looks nice and light weight. Any old plywood will do. The thinner the better.

Disks and interface pads are from Vince's Wooden Wonders. I like the disks that are with "white" rather than "black" on the bottom because I can write the grit on them. Otherwise, I have to write the grit on the side.

Bent Over Staples

The blue arrow in photo points to the staples I just bend over on the back.

Note: I use to have just one board. With velcro on both sides. 2" disks on the front and 3" disks on the back. This DID NOT work well. The disks on the bottom side always came off and got lost when I set the board down on the "ways" of the lathe or workbench.

Spindle Turning Sandpaper

When I hand sand or just hold a piece of sandpaper up to something spinning on the lathe I like to use Stikit sandpaper. See http://carlford.i nfo/blog/2014/11/stikit-sandpaper

I like to cut up the Stikit sandpaper into small sheets in advance (more on this latter) and store it in "Large Binder Clips" (aka large paper clips). I get the clips at local office supply store.

I use to hang the clips up individually. But, then they would float around on my work bench while using them and drive me crazy.

Recently, I got smart and attached them to chunk of 1/4" plywood. Now I can hang up them all at once and place them on the "ways" of the lathe while using them.

Note: 1/8" thick plywood is to flimsy. It flexes to much when you try to open the clips. Don't ask me how I know!

Attach Clips to Plywood

I attached the large binder clips to 1/4" plywood using short 10-24 pan head machine screws (aka bolts).

The blue arrow in photo points to the holes I drilled thru clips. First, I drilled a hole big enough for shaft of machine screw all the way thru and then enlarged it on JUST the front side to be big enough for head of machine screw. Tip: Snap the clips over a chuck of 1/2" scrap plywood before trying to the drill holes.

I added the 120, 80, etc grit labels using my "Brother P-touch" label maker.

Nuts and Lock Washers

On the front side I put a nut between clip and plywood to space the clip off the plywood a little.

Next to the plywood on front and back I put a multi tooth lock washer and then a nut on the back. Grind the bolts off flat. No flat washers. The lock washers dig into the plywood and keep the clips from spinning around.

Note: The space between clip and plywood is shown latter in "Store in Binder Clips Photo".

Husky Tool Cabinet

I store all of my new sanding disks in a tool cabinet next to my lathe. When I am standing at my VB36 lathe this cabinet is directly behind me. I put my turning tools down on top of this cabinet when I am adjusting the tool rest, etc. I open the top draw to get out a new sanding disk when I need one.

I just got this cabinet. I usually build my own cabinets out of used low filing cabinets and plywood. But, when I recently went to Home Depot to look for some nice 7 or 11 layer yellow pine plywood, I could not find any and this cabinet was on sale for $280? Good steel case filing cabinets are $100 used and they only have 2 or 3 draws. 2 of them would be $200 plus casters, etc. So, I went for it.

The cabinet is a Husky "46 in. 9-Drawer Mobile Workbench with Solid Wood Top". The 18" top it comes with it is nice, but to narrow for what I had in mind. I replaced it with my own 24" wide top. The draws are not as heavy duty as filing cabinets, but they are ok and the draw sizes and heights are good.

The 4" high drawers take my tote boxes, chucks, and face plates. The 2" high draws are good for turning tools.

Tote Boxes from Mcmaster

I use "Create-Your-Own Compartmented Plastic Tote Boxes" from Mcmaster-Carr all over my shop. The size of shelves, cabinets, etc in my shop are designed to use these boxes.

The box in the photo is 16-1/2" long, 10-7/8" wide, by 3-1/2" tall.www.mcmaster.com item # 40355T55, $8 on 12/30/14. Dividers are 40355T83 $2 and 40355T52 $1. Lid is 40355T96, $10.

I like these boxes because they are rugged, the divider slots are deep and frequent, and the price is right. The price for the boxes and dividers is good. But, the price for the lids at $10 is a bit steep.

I like the lids (not shown in photos). But, I don't use them that often because I keep them in drawers or on shelfs where the shelf above the box is close enough to prevent dust or chips from getting in. I only use the lids for transport to demos, classes, etc. In photo you can see there iis lip all the way around the top of these boxes that allows them to be stacked. You can also use the lip to make your own lids out of 1/4" plywood.

I have a big stack of dividers that I don't use. I bought way to many when I purchased the boxes. You can make your own dividers out of 1/8" plywood and they often better for long uninterrupted spans. Because, the plastic dividers need to be intersected. Otherwise they are to flexable.

The boxes come in 3 sizes and lots of heights. I like the 16-1/2 x 10-7/8 boxes. The smaller 10-13/16 x 8-5/16 boxes are ok, but tend to be to small. I only use these to fill up a shelf. The large 22-3/8 x 17-3/8 boxes are way to large. If you fill up one of these you are gonig to need a crane to lift it.

The boxes come in 2-1/2, 3-1/2, 5, 6, and 8" heights. The 2-1/2" high boxes are to low for most things. I have and like the other heights.

Note: For smaller, light weight things like scraps of sand paper, etc. I use "Sterilite 16068024 Storage Tray" from Amazon. Roughly 9" x 6" x 2". Not shown in photos.

Efficient Use of Stikit Sandpaper

I have found that the best way to make efficient use of my Stikit sandpaper is to fold it over and cut it up in advance. Here is how I do it.

I start with a roll of sandpaper that is sticky on the back and a old pair of scissors that I only use for sandpaper.

Note: The pink velcro in photo that keeps the roll closed and thus clean until needed.

Tear Off a Chunk

Tear off a chunk about a foot long. Longer chucks waste less paper.

Fold Over

Fold the sandpaper over on itself. This creates a chuck of sandpaper that rough on both sides. Thus it will not easily slip out of your hands when you hold it up to the lathe.

Cut Into Small Chunks

Cut up the paper into small random width chunks. Anywhere from 1/2" to 1-1/2" wide.

I like small chunks of sandpaper. Because, I am often trying to sand up close to some detail that I can't get close to with my sanding disks. You need lots of edges to get up close to details. A big chunk of sandpaper has to much middle that can not be efficiently used.

I also like small chunks because I like to use up every inch of the paper before throwing it away. I can use up all of a small chunk in one shot and then just throw it away! Thus, I don't have to deal with storing lots of bigger partiually used chunks.

Grit on Both Sides

I like my chunks of sandpaper to have grit on both sides so they don't slip out of my hands when I hold them up to work spinning on the lathe.

Tip: If you want to have good looking hands for photos then don't dye things purple, red, blue,etc and then wash your hands in lacqure thinner before taking the photos.

Store in Large Binder Clips

I like to store the sandpaper in large binder clips (aka paper clips) after cutting it up.

Note: The space between binder clip and plywood in photo. The space makes the binder clip easier to use. It is created by a nut between the binder clip and plywood. Multi tooth lock washers on either side of the nut to keep the binder clip from spinning.

Grit Trick

I learned this trick from one of my Wednesday night friends.

After you fold over the sandpaper on itself, you normally can not see the grit that is now inside. But, you can see it if you hold the sandpaper up to a light!

Efficient use of Sheet Sandpaper

I learned this method from Buster Shaw.

It makes efficient use of standard 9" x 11" sandpaper sheets. I like it, because the method creates the grit on both sides that I like.

In the photos I am using a sheet of 600 grit Carborundum sandpaper that I had laying around. This paper is ok, but I like the Norton 3X sandpaper use d by Buster, better.

Start by dividing the 9 x 11 sheet into 4 equal parts. See black lines in photo.

Note: I personally never sand raw wood beyond 220 grit. If, I was using 600 grit sandpaper it would be to sand a poly finish between coats. I would use a 6" 500 grit red Abralon disk, rather than sandpaper. See http://carlford.info/blog/2013/01/great-polyurethane-finishes-demo/

4 Equal Parts

The 4 equal parts after cutting up the sandpaper.

9 x 11 divided by 4. Equals 4 of 4.5 x 5.5

Fold in Three

Fold the 4.5 x 5.5 sheet into 3 equal parts along the 5.5" dimension.

3 Equal Parts

You now have grit on the inside and outside. The way I like it. When you hold this sandpaper up to something spinning on the lathe it will not easily slip out of your hand.

Open up the sandpaper, to expose the 3rd side after using up the 2 outside parts.

Grit Inside and Out

Ready to use with grit inside and out.

Or you can make more efficient use of the sandpaper by cutting it up into smaller 1/2" to 1-1/2" wide chucks like I with my Stikit sandpaper. See previous photos.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2015/01/handy-sandpaper-2/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/purchase_spring_2015/ http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/purchase_spring_2015/#comments Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:23:03 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=273 Continue reading Teaching “Woodturning Workshop” at Purchase College →]]>

Over many years Andy Barnum developed a great woodturning program  at Purchase College in Purchase NY (aka White Plains NY).   Purchase is part of the State University of New York and well known for its Arts and Entertainment programs.

Andy is retiring at the end of this year.  I will be replacing Andy in the spring. Wow!  Wait.  No body can replace Andy!  I got to find a better way of saying this!

Everything has been finalized.  I will be teaching the “Woodturning Workshop” at Purchase starting on February 23, 2015.

It is a “Continuing Education” class.  Non credit.  Adult students.  10 students are already signed up for the class and the class  is limited to 11 people (there are 11 lathes).

I am really looking forward to teaching the class,  because the students are a  great bunch of guys and girls.  Note:  The same students tend to take the class over and over.

The $710 tuition may look a bit steep at first.  But is really a good deal.  It includes $150 for materials.   The class is 6 hours a day for 10 Mondays.   That’s ($710 – $150) / 60 hours = $9.34 per hour.   Or $710 / 60 hours = $11.84 per hour. Just studio time with no instructor is often way more.

Purchase has a big woodworking shop with 11 lathes in the Visual Arts Building.   The lathes are a mix of General,  Powermatic, Oneway and Stubby.   Mostly General and Stubby.

Here is the course description from Purchase Web Site:

Woodturning Workshop
Creating functional and nonfunctional lathe-turned objects. Woodturning has a long and rich history, the lathe being the earliest documented woodworking machine. This workshop examines the evolution of turning and explores how the lathe and its tools are used today to produce art as well as functional objects. A variety of processes are introduced, including: wood selection and preparation, spindle turning, bowl and vessel turning, hollow turning, box making, off-center turning and finishing. Students at all levels are free to explore their own interests. Open to beginners as well as advanced enthusiasts. Tuition includes $150 for materials.
CED1040 / noncredit / $710
Discount: $685 (Purchase College matriculated students, employees, and alumni; and early registration discount)
Instructor: Carl Ford
Mon., 10 a.m.Ù–4 p.m.
Feb. 23–May 4 (10 sessions; no class Mar. 30)
Room: Visual Arts Building, Room 1029

For more info https://www.purchase.edu/departments/AcademicPrograms/ce/GeneralInformation/NoncreditCourses/arts.aspx#spring

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/purchase_spring_2015/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/hosaluk-woodturning-dvd/ http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/hosaluk-woodturning-dvd/#comments Fri, 05 Dec 2014 21:02:05 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=260 Continue reading Hosaluk Woodturning DVD →]]> I just finished watching a Michael Hosaluk DVD I really liked.

“The Art of Hosaluk in Woodturning” by Michael Hosaluk.

At $60 the 2 DVD set is not cheap.  But, I think it is reasonable because it is a 2 DVD set.  Each DVD is 3.5 hours.   Twice as long as most DVDs.  So it is more like 4 DVDs for $15 each.   Available from Michael  or Packard (packardwoodworks.com).

1st DVD

The first DVD shows how to make (turn, band saw, carve, wood burn, paint, etc)  well known Hosaluk projects from his demos and classes.  A spin top,  a base ball, offset turning, strange fruit, tea pot,  footed bowl, and candle sticks.

There is lots of good detail.  At the end you feel like you can make each of these projects, no problem.

The chapter on offset turning is one of the best I have seen.  Michael and the overhead camera angle, make it look so easy and predictable.

The chapters on tea pot and candlesticks were very interesting.  I have often struggled with how to band saw strange shapes safely and how to drill perpendicular holes in round shapes.  Michael showed some great, easy and cheap tips that are definitely being added to my arsenal.

I didn’t think, Michael could teach me anything about bowls.  I was wrong!  He showed how to easily cut feet into the bottom of a bowl with a Japanese saw.

2nd DVD

The second DVD is covers making a sea form box, good form, surface enhancement, design ideas, painting, tools and photo gallery.

The Sea Form Box chapter is very interesting with lots of good tips.  Good and simple demo of how to use a hook tool.  Lots of band saw and glue up tips.

I of course loved the chapter on Painting because I love lots of color. All of my acrylic painted stuff uses the techniques I learned in a class with Michael.

The images in Photo Gallery were stunning.  There are lots of other examples of Michael’s work scatter thru out the DVDs.  With a good discussion of them in Surface Enhancement and Design Ideas chapters.

Summary

In the DVDs Michael explains how to use his double beveled detail gouge, roughing gouge, and a hook tool.    He also uses a spindle gouge and skew in a few places.

The pace of the DVDs is good.  Not to fast and not to slow.   Michael “gets to the point” but there is no need to rush when each DVD is 3.5 hours.   The shooting angles in the DVDs are very good.  Good overhead shots show how Michael is using the tools.  Cutting angles, etc.

There is a preview of the DVDs on Youtube at  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB9oaDMyjB4

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/hosaluk-woodturning-dvd/feed/ 1 http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/featured-in-aaw-members-gallery/ http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/featured-in-aaw-members-gallery/#comments Tue, 02 Dec 2014 15:47:09 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=257 My work was recently featured in the Members’ Gallery section of the August 2014 issue of “American Woodturner” the Journal of the American Association of Woodturners.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2014/12/featured-in-aaw-members-gallery/feed/ 7 http://carlford.info/blog/2014/11/stikit-sandpaper/ Thu, 20 Nov 2014 16:35:11 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=143 Continue reading Stikit Sandpaper →]]> I use Porter Cable Stikit Sandpaper for all of my hand sanding.

Note: I use Blue Flex disks for all of my power sanding.  See my Blue Flex Sanding Disks blog entry.

• I have 80, 120, 150, 180, and 220 grits.

I generally do not sand beyond 220 grit. If I do sand beyond 220 then I use 6″ Abralon pads by Mirka.

For more info see my “Great Polyurethane Finishes” handout at http://www.carlford.info/pages/demos_classes/great_poly_finish/Great_Poly_Finish.pdf

• I get it from Amazon. 4-1/2” x 10 yard roll.  Around $18 on 11/18/2014.

Note: Some times Amazon shows “Stikit” in description and some times they don’t.   I think the problem is “Stikit” is trademarked by 3M.  Search for “Porter Cable sand paper roll”

• There are other sandpapers that are virtually the same. 3M Stikit? Klingspor?

They use to sell the Porter Cable Stikit sandpaper in local hardware stores.  I like it.  And I am to lazy to find something else I really like.

• Updated 12/8/24: I like the Norton 3X Sandpaper.

While attending a Learn & Turn last weekend I tried out some Norton 3X Sandpaper. I liked it. You can get this at Home Depot, etc so some day I may switch to this paper.

It comes in 9″ x 11″ sheets. I like the way a friend cuts it into 4 equal parts (4 of 4.5″ x 5″) and then folds the 5″ length into 3 parts so you end up with a 4.5″ x 1-5/8″ chuck of paper with 3 sides. 2 exposed sides and one inside.

]]> http://carlford.info/blog/2014/11/blue-flex-sanding-disks/ Thu, 20 Nov 2014 15:24:22 +0000 http://carlford.info/blog/?p=119 Continue reading Blue Flex Sanding Disks →]]> Updated: 9/30/2019. Change bars in Blue on left.