The first thing I turned on my new Powermatic 3520C Lathe is what I call a
plate bowl. A plate with a little bowl in the center. I like to turn this
shape and then use it as a canvas that I can decorate.
Here is the finished plate bowl.
10" diameter. 1-1/2" tall. Maple wood. Lathe and hand
carved rings and grooves. Red stain. Gold acrylic paint. Acrylic lacquer finish.
Turning this on my new Powermatic 3520C was as “easy as pie”. No
mounting problems. No vibration problems, etc. This piece is small and
easy. Thus, I was not expecting any problems.
Note: I am teaching a plate class at the
Brookfield Craft Center
on Saturday and Sunday, May 5 and 6, 2018. We will be making similar plates or plate
bowls in that class.
Here is the blank mounted on a screw in my chuck. The
blank is a chunk of hard maple wood. Roughly 2" thick by 10-1/2"
I just cut the corners off on the band saw. I made absolutely no
attempt to make the blank round on the band saw. I have a lathe for making
Here I am getting ready to true up the face of the blank.
You can see here why I do not like the stock Powermatic banjo with
its offset tool post design. I have to crank the quill in the tailstock way
out to get the offset Powermatic banjo in there. The quill is way to far
out for safety in my opinion.
This is why I strongly prefer the NON offset design of
Oneway banjos. For more info see
section of "My New Powermatic 3530C Lathe
Verses My Old Powermatic 3520B" blog entry.
Bottom Roughed Out
Here I roughed out the bottom of the plate bowl. I am ready to turn the
blank around and work on the front.
First I turned the outside round and slightly down hill from the
top. The top is on the headstock side. Then, I turned a tenon on the bottom
that matches my Oneway Stronghold Chuck. I left the rest of the blank
pretty thick so I can cut grooves on the other side. If I made the plate wall
thin now, then it would flex to much, when I tried to cut the grooves.
Hind site is always 20/20. I wish I took more photos. I forgot to take some
photos of top side trued up. Then another photo of me cutting the bowl.
In this photo, I am getting ready to paint the gold rings. Painting
between well defined lines is easy with the lathe running. Thus, I first
cut some shallow coves to hold the gold paint and then some V grooves on
either side to create well defined lines.
At this point I have NOT thinned out the plate. The bottom is still
thick, like in previous photo. I am going to thin it out latter, at the
Power Carve the Radial Grooves
I removed the CHUCK from the lathe. I left the piece in the chuck! Latter, I want to be able to remount
the piece and still have it run true.
I laid out the radial lines with a pencil. Then I carved the lines with a V chisel in my Ryobi power carver.
After carving, I removed any left over pencil lines and eased over any hard edges with a 3M radial bristle disk.
Unfortunately, from this point on I forgot to take step by step photos.
Stain It Red
I stained the entire top and sides with red alcohol based stain. I forced the stain into all of the rings and grooves.
I let the stain dry for a while. Or, did I let it dry over night? I really don’t remember.
Paint the Gold Rings
After the stain dried. I put the chuck with the piece still mounted in it, back on the lathe. I painted the gold rings that I turned in with gold acrylic paint. With the lathe running slowly. With a 1/4″ round paint brush. I wanted the red stain to show thru the paint a bit, but not to much. Thus I adjusted the thickness / thinness of the paint with some air brush medium.
I then removed the chuck again from lathe.
After the gold paint dried I sealed the entire top surface with a couple of coats of rattle can lacquer.
Paint the Gold Grooves
After sealing, I painted the grooves that I carved in with gold acrylic paint. I used a 1/4″ round paint brush. This was not easy. I had to dork around a lot. Wipe it off some. Paint some on, again. Until I ended up with the paint, just in the groves, with some red showing thru.
I sealed the entire top surface again, after the paint dried, with a couple of coats of rattle can lacquer.
Steel Wool & Buff
Here is what the piece looked like when I mounted the chuck back on the
lathe. I turned the lathe on and used some synthetic steel wool to remove
any dust in the lacquer and buffed it with a soft cloth.
Turn The Back
I turned the piece around and mounted it on a vacuum chuck. So I could
finish the bottom. I thinned out the bottom to match the top. Then I
stained it, sealed it, etc.
Here is what the finished bottom looks like. The picture was taken at a
slight angle so you can see some of the details.
I really wish I had remembered to take a lot more photos for my
My New Powermatic 3520C Lathe verses my Old Powermatic 3520B
I decided to replace my old Powermatic 3520B Lathe with the new C Model.
Here is my unpacking and set up experience. Plus some comparison of
the B and C models.
I purchased the new model C on 2/1/2018 for a little less than the
$4400 list price.
I am a long time (10 years) Powermatic 3520B owner and a big fan. I
purchased my model B on 4/1/2008 for $2700.
I am writing this blog entry because I was frustrated by the lack
of real photos on the web before purchasing my Powermatic 3520C. There were
some glamour shots put out by Powermatic. But, not much else.
Note: I also own 2 Oneway 2436 lathes, a VB36 lathe, a mini lathe and a metal lathe.
In a Nutshell
After a month or so of use, I think I am going to
also be a long time big fan of the new Powermatic 3520C Lathe.
There are some things I don't like. Like it does not come with
a power cord. It still has the offset Banjo that I can't live with.
But, overall I am really happy.
It is really nice to see a company make a new model that is beefier
than the old model rather than making things more flimsy to cut costs! For
example, the base of new headstock is wider than the old one and it weighs
In my not so humble opinion the new model C is is at least as good
as the old model B and probably a little better.
From now on I am going to abbreviate Powermatic as PM. Model C is PM 3520C. Model B is PM 3520B.
New PM 3520C Lathe Specs for Reference
Click on the photo at the right for new model C specs that I do not
mention in this blog entry.
I downloaded this info from the PM web site.
Part 1: Unboxing and Set Up
Lathe on Pallet
The lathe comes nicely packaged on a Pallet. It fits in a small pickup no
I had help loading it. I unloaded it on my own by unpacking the
pallet while it was still on the truck.
I mostly set up the lathe on my own. I needed help turning the
stand over after bolting on the legs. And I needed help lifting the
Headstock up onto the bed.
Cast Iron is NOT Light Weight
The PM web info says the lathe weights 726 lbs and the label on the box
The label says the shipping pallet weight is 770 lbs.
I weighed each of the parts as I unpacked things. I used a modem
electronic bathroom sale so all weights are approximate. Probably +/- 2
Here is what I found for the new model C:
Headstock: 160 lbs
Tailstock: 53 lbs (the Old model B Tailstock is 46 lbs)
Banjo: 34 lbs
Tool Rest: 5 lbs
Box of Parts: 18 lbs
Main Leg: 70 lbs each
Leg Riser Block: 28 lbs each
Bed: I can't lift the Bed so here is my guess:
726-160-53-34-5-18-70-70-28-28 = 260 lbs
The above weights are with the cast iron triangle shaped
duplicating bracket installed on the headstock and NOT installed on the
tailstock. i.e. the way the lathe is shipped.
Note: Should I call it the lathe "bed" or
"ways"? I decided to go with "bed". Same as PM spec
sheet. The "ways" are just the top part of the "bed".
Shipping Carton Removed
The shipping carton was made to be easily removed. Just cut the straps and
lift it up.
The photo shows what I found under the cardboard carton.
Lathe bed in the middle with legs in cartons on each side. The
small carton that fell down is the all the nuts, bolts, and other small
Each leg is 22-1/4" tall and weights 70 lbs. (Leg height with out the
silver feet that go on the bottom.)
Nicely packaged. Easy to remove. No shipping grease or oil BS that
I need to deal with.
When I first saw a photo of the new model C, I did not like the new
leg shape. Not as sexy?
I fell in love with the new shape when I built my own self to go
under the lathe. The new leg shape makes shelves easier to enclose. No
stupid big opening (hole) in the leg that collects dust and shavings. The
new legs don't have a funny curve that gets in the way of things stacked
on the shelf and thus gives you more room on the shelf. Stay tuned, for a
new blog entry coming soon with my new weighted shelf design.
A Leg Riser Block
Each riser block is 4-1/4" tall and weights 28 lbs.
Thus the legs with riser blocks weight 70 + 28 = 98 lbs.
I have the riser blocks installed on my lathe with the silver feet
screwed all the way in. From floor to bottom of riser is 5/8". Thus
the silver feet on the bottom add 5/8" minimum. Note: I DO NOT have
the nut installed between the top of the feet and bottom of leg. The nut
would add another 3/8".
From floor to top of ways (bed) is 34-3/4". The distance from
top of ways (bed) to center of spindle is 10-3/8". So the center of my
spindle is 45-1/8" above the floor.
If no riser blocks it would be 45-1/8" minus 4-1/4" =
40-7/8" above the floor. This is very close to the 40-5/8" spec
on PM web site.
The bed is 7-3/4" tall.
If you wanted to make the lathe taller you can crank out the feet a
few inches. Or, I see no reason why you could not add more riser blocks.
See "Installing The Riser Blocks" below.
The PM web says the riser block adds 6". This is about right
if you crank out the feet, under a 4-1/4" riser block.
The old model B only had one leg option. No riser block. The
lowest possible spindle height was 45" above the floor. I just
measured it on my old PM 3520B.
Note: The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is the same
on model B and C. 21″ center to center.
The Tool Rest
The lathe only comes with one tool rest. It is 14" long and weights 5
lbs. Same as model B.
Box of Parts
Nuts, bolts, feet, wrench, live center, etc.
I really like the owners manual. PM ships 3 SEPERATE owners manuals. One in English.
One in Spanish. And one in French?
I am stick to death of owners manuals with just a couple of pages
of English text and then a ton of useless paper in other languages.
The Owners Manual has one very serious problem. It does not tell
you how to hook up the power cord that you MUST supply on your own. More
about that later.
Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock
This is how they ship the Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock.
They are just locked down to the bed via the silver handles. No
extra, nuts, bolts or other BS you need to remove. It seems to work just
I was also VERY delighted to find bare metal surfaces coated with
just a light coat of machine oil. NOT that heavy crap you have to remove
with kerosene. Like, the stuff you find on cheap tools shipped from China,
Close up of the headstock
Close up of the tailstock.
The back side of Headstock, Banjo and Tailstock
Banjo and Tailstock Removed
Removing the banjo and tailstock was easy. Then the pallet was light enough
that I could slide it out.
I slide the pallet back in a little and then removed the Headstock. I let
it sit on end of tailgate while I got up my nerve.
It feels a like a lot more than 160 lbs at this point. It is not
easy to grip, but not to bad.
Headstock on Dolly
I set the headstock down on to a dolly and rolled it into my studio.
This went ok. But, I decided there was no way I was going to be
able to pick it up and install it on bed. I could pick it up. But, I could
not pick it up and align the big washer on the bottom of headstock with the
ways on my own. I was going to need help.
Ramp to Unload the Bed
The bed is to heavy for me to lift by myself. To awkward.
I got my 2×10 ramps. The ones I use to load and unload my snow
blower, rototiller, etc.
Down the Ramp
I decided that removing the bed from the pallet was going to be awkward in
the truck. So I just slide the pallet down my ramps. No problem
Here are all the big parts after I unloaded everything.
Eventually I just rolled the bed off the pallet onto some rubber
Note: The model B big useless metal Guard Assembly (that sort of looks like
a metal spider web) no longer ships with the model C lathe. It is now an
option. So, you no longer have to pay for this big waste of money.
Contents of the Parts Box
Here is what was in the parts box after I unwrapped things.
The new model C still comes with the very good "Jet"
knockoff of the Oneway heavy duty dual ball bearing live center. The black
thing above the big yellow wrench in the photo. The Oneway center is my
absolute favorite. The Jet knockoff is a very close second. What's the
difference? The threaded part on the Oneway is made of steel. On the Jet it
is aluminum. The Jet only comes with the small aluminum cone.
Note: Jet and PM are owned by the same parent company.
The silve sliding hammer knock out bar with brass tip is best of
breed. The model C one is the same as the model B.
The new model C lathe comes with the same cast iron face plate as
the model B. They are identical. Ok, but not great. Not shown in this
photo. See headstock photos above.
I really like these feet.
Most feet these days are hard plastic with a steel stud sticking
out of the top. These feet are mostly steel with just the hard plastic part
on the bottom. They look real sturdy.
I removed the nuts you see on the feet before I installed them.
This allowed me to crank the feet all the way in and get the lowest
possible spindle height with the riser blocks. My floor to center of
spindle height with riser blocks is 45-1/8". I wanted my new PM 3520C
spindle height to be the same as my old PM 3520B spindle height of
45". Because, I have grown to like that height.
Here you can see I rolled the bed off of the pallet onto a rubber mat.
The legs are easy to install with a Allen wrench. You just have to
put in the 4 black socket head cap screws.
Installing the Riser Blocks
Here I show 2 options for the photo. I show one of the silver feet
installed directly in the leg and one installed in the riser block.
The bottom of the legs are threaded to accept the feet. The bottom
hole in the riser block is a threaded like hole in leg to accept feet. The top
hole in the riser block is NOT threaded. You just install a bolt (socket head
cap screw) thru unthreaded hole in riser block into the threaded foot hole
I really like the riser block design. It is simple and cost effect.
I really don't understand whey more lathe manufactures don't go
this way. The new Oneway adjustable legs are really expensive. Like twice
the cost of the old non adjustable legs.
I see no reason why you could not add more riser blocks if you want
to make the lathe taller. I would just make my own. Go to my local steel
supplier and ask them to cut me some 3/16" wall thickness, 4"
square hollow tub to length. Then drill some holes in them to line up with
existing leg foot holes. My steel supplier has lots of scrap cut offs for
cheap. You can get 4×4, or 2×4 or 4×6 square tub. 3/16" or 1/4"
The adjustable legs on the Robust lathes, etc are nice. But, lets
face it. You probably are only going to adjust them once or twice. Adding
or removing a riser block is simple and cost effect. Robust and PM are the
same when it comes to changing leg heights. You have to jack up the lathe.
If you want more leg height adjustment in finer intervals then you
can just crank the feet on the bottom of the legs in or out.
Note: The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is the same
on model B and C. 21″ center to center.
Legs, Riser Blocks, and Feet Installed
Ready to go. But, I decided that thus sucker was to heavy for me to turn up
on my own. I would also need help installing the Headstock. So, why take a
Time to find some friends.
Note: In this photo and previous photo I still have the nuts
installed between the feet and bottom of leg (riser block). Eventually, I
removed those to take the spindle height down to 45-1/8". Like my old
B model at 45".
All Set Up and Ready To Go
It's a thing of great beauty!
Well, not really ready to go. I can’t plug it in and give it a go because the PM people
DID NOT ship it with a power cord and plug. Err……!!!
See "Main Power On/Off Switch" below.
Note: This photo was taken recently, after I installed my new shelf
on top of the headstock. Ignore it for now. I will talk about it in a
future blog append.
New and Old Headstocks Side by Side
I put 2 different photos together here in Photoshop. So things don't
line up perfect. But, they are good enough.
The PM 3520C is on the left. The PM 3520B is on the right.
Basically they flipped the controls and belts from left to right.
They added a new spindle nose on the right of the model C (pointed
to by red arrow) by removing the funny overhang on the left of the old
model B (pointed to by blue arrow). I really like this. The new spindle
nose makes it easier to turn things close to the headstock.
I also really like it because they did not change the distance
between the in board and out board bearings. i.e. the distance between the
green arrows on both headstocks is the same. Roughly 11.5". The
bearings on model B and C appear to be the same great bearings.
Having a nice big bearing on the out board side, in addition to the
in board side makes the spindle a lot more stable when you mount pieces on
the lathe. It is what makes the PM lathes a lot better than the Jet, etc
"look alikes". Often the "look alikes" use a smaller bearing
on the out board side or no bearing at all!
The bearings on the PM lathes put them in the high end class, with
Oneway, Robust, etc.
Note: In the photo, the "out board" side is on the left
where the hand wheel mounts. The "in board" side is on the right.
The base of the new model C headstock is 10" wide. That is
roughly 2" wider than the old headstock. This improves the stability
of the headstock.
The model C is 15" tall. This is 1/4" taller than the old
The distance from top of ways to center of spindle is the same
10-3/8" on model B and C.
New Control Box
Photo of the new movable control box for on/off, direction and speed in
the DOCKED position. Pointed to by red arrow.
The new model C uses on/off buttons. I am having a little trouble
getting use to this. However, I still think it is an improvement over the
model B that used a single red mushroom button that you had pull out for on
and push in for off. The push in for off was probably better. However,
pulling the old model B button out was really hard. It took like a team of
strong men to pull that button out. That, is why I replaced it on my old
model B with a nice twist switch. Visible in the previous photo.
The magnet on the back of the control box is good. Not to strong
and not to weak. The entire back of the box is covered with a nice thin
layer of soft foam that appears to be fairly tough. No photo of back because
I already have to many photos in this blog entry.
Undocked Control Box
This photo shows the new movable control box removed from the dock.
The red arrow points to the nice dock. It is recessed so the docked
control box does not stick out..
Note: A moveable control box is a nice safety improvement. However,
I still feel, that for safety reasons, all lathes should be equipped with a
second emergency off switch that lives on the tailstock end of the lathe.
It is ALWAYS there when you reach for it in an emergency. Regardless of
where the other control box may have gotten to during daily use.
The Belts and Pulleys
This is often one of the first things I look at on lathes. To many people
pay to much attention to just the HP of a lathe. They fail to look at the
belts, bearings, etc. If you JUST put a big engine in a VW Bug car then you
still have just a VW Bug. Because the suspension, tires, etc can't
handle all of the HP of a big engine.
The new model C has the same great belts and pulleys as the model
The BIG belts and pulleys is another thing that puts the PM lathes
in the same high end class as Oneway, Robust, etc.
The PM lathes have great motors with belts and pulleys that are
really up to the job.
New Spindle Lock Knob
The new spindle lock knob is above the control box. Pointed to by red
It is big and easy to use. Just twist it to lock or unlock the
On both the model B and C, there is no micro switch attached to
spindle lock that prevents you from turning on the lathe. I don't think
this is a big problem. We all drive cars. You just got to known, when the
light is red you don't pull out! You wait for the green. When the
spindle is locked. Don't try to turn the lathe on!
Note: The old model B originally had a spindle lock that people did
not like. Because you had to manually hold it in. I agree it was a pain.
Eventually PM came out with a nice little fix. A sliding piece of metal
that held it in. You can see it in the photo above of B and C headstocks
side by side.
Spindle Lock Implementation
This photo shows how the spindle lock is implement. The red arrow points to
the round washer where the spindle lock pin engages.
No change here. Basically the same on model B and C.
I like what I see. The spindle lock has nothing to do with the
indexing mechanism. It is a big robust spindle lock. So when you screw
things on and off of the spindle you don't put any stress on the
The red arrow in photo points the new model C index pin. The index is now
implement like most other lathes. The index pin goes into holes in the
pulley wheel. See next photo.
The index pin is held out by a spring. If you want to engage it you
just push in. If you want it to stay engaged you have to thread the pin in.
Indexing on the old model B was a big mess. On the in board side,
you had to screw a pin into holes you could not see. There was more than
one hole for index pin … It was basically, totally useless. The new model
C is a big improvement.
Note: Initially I had trouble getting the pin to thread into the
hole. It just would not thread in there. Now, it seems to work. I am
baffled. I think the threads in the cast iron headstock are not the best.
This is the only manufacturing or shipping problem that I ran into with the
Index Pin Implementation
The red arrow in photo shows the index pin coming thru the headstock. See
The blue arrow points to the holes that the index pin engages.
There are 48 holes. For me, this is WAY MORE holes than I need!
I generally only need 12 or less holes. More holes JUST leads to
more mistakes. Trying to use every 4th hole to get 12 divisions. Always
gets me all screwed up. I really prefer to use an after market external
indexing wheel. I can then easily mark every other hole with a red magic
marker, every 4th hole with a blue magic marker, etc.
New Digital Index Feature
The model C comes with a new digital index feature. You activate it by
pushing the "Index / Indice" button pointed to by blue arrow in
When engaged the digital display (pointed to by red arrow in photo)
shows the index number. 1 to 48. In photo it is showing index position 42.
When you turn the spindle the index number changes.
I don't known of any other lathe that has this feature.
I am sure, some people are going to love it. It does not do much
for me. If I could tell it, I want only 12 index positions and it took care
of skipping to every 4th hole it would be of more interest to me.
Note: I tried several times, I just could not
get a good photo here. In the real world the digital display that is hard to read in
the photo is bright and easy to read.
Digital Index Implementation
The big silver disk and black box pointed to by red and blue arrows in this
photo are all new on the model C.
I think they have something to do with the new digital index
function. On the old model B there is just a small laser and sensor that
senses the actual spindle speed of the square spindle lock washer.
Behind the blue arrow in photo there is a black plastic box with
wires and a circuit board. I am happy to see it is protected from the
pulleys by a steel plate.
On top of the steel plate there is a laser and sensor that uses the
hole in the silver disk to sense the actual spindle speed.
The model B and C lathes sense and display the ACTUAL spindle speed. If you
hand rotate the spindle with the motor off the digital display shows your
hand rotation rpm. This is a lot better than cheap lathes that do not show
the actual speed. They just show you were the variable speed knob (dial) is set.
New VFD Enclosure
Some people refer to the "Variable Frequency Drive" (VFD) as the
"motor controller", etc
The VFD on the back of the model C headstock is now enclosed in a
new fancy plastic box. My feelings about this are mixed. Will the VFD
overheat when it does not get enough air flow? I am hoping PM knows what
they are doing here.
The VFD on the back of the old model B headstock was not enclosed.
This made securing the wiring a little more problematic and time consuming
New or foreign safety standards, etc may have led PM to add the
enclosure. The PM web says "Fully enclosed VDF for increased user
Note: A VFD allows you to get high torque out of a motor at low
speeds by using a 3 Phase (rather than a Single Phase) motor. The VFD
converts 220 volts Single Phase input power (standard household current) to
220 volt 3 Phase power for the motor. It varies the frequency of the 3
Phase power to control the motor speed.
The on/off, direction and speed, control box on the front of the lathe sends low voltage (typically 24
volts AC) control signals to the VFD on the back. So
all high voltage wiring is limited to the back of the lathe. This is pretty
much standard today on all high end lathes.
Here is what the VFD looks like with the covers removed. I am an Electrical
Engineer. So, you known, I just had to take that cover off.
The VFD is made by "Delta". I am not really sure, but I
don't think this "Delta" company is the same as the old Delta
Power Tools company. Or maybe it is spin off?
Delta VFDs are not as widely known as other brands because they do
a lot of OEM stuff. However, they are known to be a good brand.
The VFD on my old PM 3520B was a Delta VFD. An older model. It
works good. No problems!
Main Power On/Off Switch
The Knob under the VFD on a silver background is the Main Power On/Off
Switch. It is unconventional. But it is a nice high quality switch.
The old model B did not come with a main power switch. The VFD was
always powered on if the lathe was plugged in. This was a huge over site in
my not so humble opinion. I added my own on/off switch to the back of my
model B. Thus, I am really glade to see the new switch on the model C.
On the other hand the PM people really irked me. No, that is not
strong enough. They really, really, really pissed me off by not shipping
the lathe with a power cord. I could not plug the lathe in when I was ready
to show it to my friends who helped me set it up! I had to wait a day, go
to the store again to get a cord and plug, … I was pissed!
I payed $4xxx.00 for this lathe. They could not afford to ship it
with a $10 power cord? Come on?
We have standards in the USA. The lathe power plate says 230 volts,
10 amps, 1 phase, 60 hertz. i.e. for USA sale only. The manual says it
should plug into a 20 amp circuit. In the US the standard plug is a NEMA
6-20 for 250 volts, 20 amps with ground. The lathe should come with this
cord and plug!
Yes, there are some industrial places were they might use other
plugs, or direct wire, but those places are 3 phase, etc. They ship this
lathe with a single phase VFD, and plate says 1 phase … thus there is no
excuse for not shipping a NEMA 6-20 cord and plug! If someone does not like
that plug then they can cut if off!
To top it all off. There is ABSOLUTELY no place in the PM Manual
they shipped with the lathe that shows how to wire up that switch!!! And it
is a non standard switch! The manual says you should hire an electrician!
They want me to hire an electrician, wait for him to show, pay him
$100 or more, … Because, they did not want to ship a $4xxx.00 lathe with
a $10 power cord? Err…..!!!
I added the blue cord you see in photo and my own standard NEMA
6-20 plug from Home Depot. Note: The plug is NOT shown in photo.
See photo for all the lathe plate information.
It correctly shows the lathe should be connected to a 1 phase, 220
volt power source.
See photo for all the motor plate information.
I am glade to see here they are correctly showing the motor as a 3
phase motor. The VFD converts from 220 volts 1 phase to 220 volts 3 phase
for the motor.
The motor on my old model B has been a great motor for 10 years. I
think it is really a good old fashion 2 HP into a load. Rather than foreign
crap where they falsely label motors as 2 HP when they can not deliver that
The motor on my old model B is one of the lathes biggest selling
points! It appears the motor on the new model C is the same motor. It looks
the same and all the plate numbers, amps, HP, etc are the same.
seems like the fan built into the new model C motor moves more air. This could
be just my imagination. More air is a better thing. Better cooling. However, I have
never had any problems with the model B over heating.
New and Old Tailstocks Side by Side
The PM 3520C is on the left. The PM 3520B is on the right.
The model C tailstock is a huge improvement over the model B
because it has Acme threads in the Quill (the part that screws in and out).
It took like forever to crank the old mode B tailstock in or out. The new
model C is faster.
The PM web site says the model C has a "anti-rotation"
key. Well, the old model B also has one. The new one on the model C looks
like it might be better. But, I never had any complaints about the old
model B one.
They both have the same great hand wheel. They both have the same
good quill locking mechanism (the black handle on top).
The model C has a new very nice silver locking handle.
They both have the same hidden compartment with door that some
people love. I absolutely hate it when people hide things in there!
The model C tailstock is 53 lbs. The model B is 46 lbs. I
personally could do with out the extra weight. The old one was already on
the to heavy side when I wanted to remove it. However, on the plus side,
the new one is not some light weight piece of junk.
The new model C quill is marked in both inches and millimeters. Good type size
nice and dark but still sharp. Easy to read.
The new model C is obviously wider than the model B at the bottom.
The model C is 9" wide at bottom. The model B is 7". At the top,
where the quill goes thru they are both the same 8-1/4" wide. Both
models are the same height. 13.25" to the top of the hand wheel.
The new model C sticks out more on the left. I am really not
thrilled with this because it means I can't get the Banjo as close to
the tailstock as I would like. More about this latter.
However, it is nice to have a bigger tailstock base in contact with
the bed. It makes the tailstock more stable.
Bottom of Tailstock
Here is what the bottom of the tailstock looks like. The model C and model
B are very similar.
New and Old Banjos Side by Side
Oneway 2407 banjo on left. PM 3520C is in the center. PM 3520B is on the
The new model C banjo is roughly the same size and weight as the
old model B. The model C has a nice new silver handle. The model C features
a new tool rest clamp. More about that latter.
Both the model B and C have an offset tool rest post that I really
DO NOT like! They are also to short.
This photo shows why I do not like the PM banjos with a offset tool rest
I turn mostly bowls and hollow forms from green logs. In this photo
I just finished facing off the end of a log so I can mount a face plate.
With my Oneway banjo in there I have to crank out the quill on the
tailstock roughly 2". Blue arrow in photo. This is reasonable and
If I had the PM banjo in there (see previous photo) then I would
need to crank out the quill another 2" to get the offset tool rest
post in the same space. That would extend the quill to roughly 4". Way
to close to the max quill extension of 4-1/2". At 4" the quill is
not secure enough for strength and safety because it is extended to far.
When the quill gets to the end of the threads a 4-3/4" it just slides
out. If I have to do this once and a while then ok. But, every day, no way!
In my not some humble opinion the Oneway banjo is still best of
breed. Still way better than the model B or C PM banjo because it is not
New Tool Rest Clamp for Photo
The top of the new model C banjo features a new tool rest shaft clamp. It
is huge improvement over the old model C. It holds the tool rest post, rock
solid, even under heavy loads.
This photo shows the new design slid out so you can see what it
looks like. The next photo shows it installed.
New Tool Rest Clamp Installed
The red arrow points to the jaws that actually clamp down on the tool rest
post. It looks almost the same as a Oneway banjo when you look down the
tool post hole.
The new PM design is as good as the Oneway tool rest clamp and
probably a lot cheaper to manufacture.
Note: The old model B design really sucked! It was just a knob with
a screw that screwed in or out. See photo above. It was like the one you
find on most cheap lathes. It allowed the tool rest to move around or drop
down while you were trying to turn. Extremely frustrating when you have to
stop the lathe to fix the tool rest position.
Bottom of Banjo
The bottom of new model C banjo looks the same as the old model B. Same
good design on the bottom.
I really like the big black ROUND black washer (red arrow in photo)
on the bottom of the PM model B and C headstock, tailstock and banjo. It is
way better than the square washers used by most (all other?) lathe
Round washers DO NOT have any sharp corners that hang up when you
slide things around on the lathe bed (ways). The PM round washer is big and
The square washers use by other lathe manufactures have sharp
corners that hang up and prevent you from easily sliding the banjo around.
I really hate how the square washer banjos start to stick after they have
been used for a while. This seems to be aggravated by using washers that
are NOT big and beefy. Over time they bend and distort? Eventually, you
have to remove the square washer from the bottom and file off all the sharp
edges. Then it still is not as good as the big beefy PM round washer.
Banjo To Low
The banjo on the new model C is still way to low. Just like it was on the
model B. This has not been fixed.
The banjos on PM lathes are roughly 1-1/2" lower than the
banjos on all other lathes by all other manufactures. See red arrow in
photo. PM tools rests are extra tall to compensate for this.
This is NOT a great feature. It means that if you purchase an after
market tool rest from any other manufacture it will NOT work on a PM lathe.
The tool rest post will be to short because the PM banjo is to low!
It is often necessary to purchase after market tool rests for
shapes and lengths not offered by PM. Purchasing special rests with longer
shafts, cost extra and limits your options.
New Model C Bed and Leg Holes
See next photo for old model B bed and leg holes.
Like I already said. After getting use to it. I like the shape of
the new model C leg. It works better when you make your own shelf under the
However, some users may not be happy with the new screw hold
pattern. The red arrows in this photo and next photo points to holes that
are in the same location on model B and C lathes. They are 4" apart
and 2-3/4" down from top of bed.
The blue arrows point to new holes on the model C. They do not
exist on the model B. The model B only had one hole in the middle. See
green arrow in next photo.
I think this means you CAN NOT mount the old model B bed extension
#6294727B on a new model C lathe. Well, maybe you still can, but you
can't use all 3 holes, just the top 2. Or you are going to have to
drill your own center hole
You can get a new model C bed extension. PM # 1353002.
I think the old model B Tail Stock Swing Away #6294721 accessory
will work on a model C. Because it only uses the top holes. The PM model C
manual seems to imply that.
I don't want to be negative here! Lots of people have Tail
Stock Swing Away. I do not known of any one who has a bed extension on a
model B. You don't really need one because you can just slide the
headstock down to where you need it for outboard turning. So the new model
B hole pattern is probably not a big deal.
Note: The distance between the ways is the same on model B and C.
2-1/2" inches. The distance between the feet on the bottom of legs is also the same
on model B and C. 21″ center to center. The feet are NOT shown in these photos.
Old Model B Bed and Leg Holes
See discussion under previous photo.
Like I already said above.
I am big fan of the old PM model B and a long time owner. I think,
after a month or so of use, I am going to
also be a long time big fan of the new PM model C.
The only real thing I don’t like and can’t live with is the PM banjo. I am going to
continue to use a Oneway banjo on my new model C lathe, like I did on my old model B.
Here are some photos of my studio in July of 2015.
Carl Ford Studio Woodturner
The entrance to Aladdin's Cave
View from Door
The view of Aladdin's Cave from just inside of the door.
360 of Studio, 1 of 8
First of 8 photos that shows a 360 degree view of my studio taken from the
middle of room.
This photos shows the work area around my Oneway 2636 lathe.
Note the work bench, tool racks and black dust collector hood.
360 of Studio, 2 of 8
This photo is kind of boring. It shows the main entry doorway, workbench
and tool racks.
360 of Studio, 3 of 8
This photo shows the work area around my VB36 bowl lathe with Long Bed
Note the tool racks, green light over lathe hanging from ceiling,
black dust collector hood, black air gun hose hanging below dust collector
All of my lathes have very good dust collection and air gun.
360 of Studio, 4 of 8
This photo show the area between my VB36 and Powermatic 3520B lathes.
It shows my Grinder, AC, exhaust fan and vacuum pump. The exhaust
fan is below AC, behind the grinder.
The windows let in lots of good natural light. It is a cloudy day
outside. If it was sunny, I would not be able to take photos because the
sun streaming thru the windows would over power my camera.
360 of Studio, 5 of 8
This photos shows the work area around my Powermatic 3520B lathe.
Note the black light on the headstock, sanding drills hanging on
front of lathe and jam/vacuum chucks stored under lathe.
All of my lathes have very good overhead lighting and a very good
light mounted on the headstock or handing from the ceiling.
360 of Studio, 6 of 8
This photo shows my non turning tools, tool wall and belt sander.
Note the overhead lights. I have lots of lights in my studio. I use
warm white light bulbs in all of my fixtures to create a nice warm and
inviting feeling in my studio.
360 of Studio, 7 of 8
Another kind of boring photo. This photos shows my Red Mini Lathe and
Modine heater unit.
I have very good heat and AC in my studio. The heat and AC are
distributed by an overhead air cleaner.
360 of Studio, 8 of 8
This photo shows my metal lathe.
Mini Lathe and Workbench
This photo shows a better view of my Mini Lathe and the rolling workbench
for my Powermatic 3520B lathe.
The rolling workbenches (tables) in my studio are located so there
is a convenient place to set down your turning tools while working at the
lathe. You just have to turn around and the bench is there, with in easy
Everything in my studio, except for the lathes is on LOCKING
Bandsaw & Drill Press
This photo shows my Band Saw, Drill Press, Planer, and Table Saw.
I only need a 14" band saw with a riser block because I rough
out all my turning blanks with my chain saw.
This photos shows the air cleaner located in the middle of my studio.
I use it to clean the air and distribute the heat and AC in my
This photo shows my home made 2 HP cyclone dust collector. It will suck the
chrome off the bumper of your car!
It is located outside. This keeps the noise and dust outside!
It is nice and quite inside when I run the dust collector.
When I empty the dust collector it does NOT fill the room with
Log Storage and Prep Area
This photo shows my log storage and prep area outside.
I like to store my logs outside in the shade where they get rained
The bench in the middle is my horizontal chain saw bench.
The Rube Goldberg in the back is my vertical chain saw bench.